soak it with some pb blaster or any penetrant lube first and than wrench it out. youll have a hard time cracking that housing.

 

alright, I never tried PB blaster... i hear it works wonders.

What fluid goes in each differiental? I mean I am thinking of just changing boths fluids... they said at ford not to worry about it until 100k miles... but they said that about the T-case too... and when I changed the fluid at 48k it was black and stunk like burnt popcorn.... grrr.

I noticed it says something about some additive or something that has to go in there to?

it's a 4.10 axel, im not sure about the front.. whatever stock is.

 

It can be done on jackstands, but that crush sleeve will take a GOOD breaker bar and probably a pipe to go on it. A dial inlbs torque wrench is a MUST to set the bearing preload. Other than that it's hand tools and torque wrenches unless the bearings are shot. Rebuilding the rear takes a whole slew of special tools, and PATIENCE!


Put the stand as far outward on the axle tube as possible when lifting the rear.

 

alright, now to remove this seal, I just remove the nut, take out the yoke.. then thats is where im a bit lost.... how do I stop the yoke from turning to remove the nut? and .... yeah.......

 

Ah, the world of homemade tools! I took a pice of 2" wide 1/4" thick and 14" long flat iron and made a flange holder. Drill two holes to match the holes on your flange and you're good to go. Kind of a long flat wrench.

The proper way is to remove carrier, use new crush sleeve and set the preload to 8-14 inlbs.
Many people just take the nut off, replace seal, and torque it back close to original. There are two "improper" ways to do that, you can get a torque reading before diasassembly, or count the number of turns/mark the pinion and nut. When you put it back on, put it on the same number of turns/to the mark. Problem with both is the torque may have been off to start, which was my case hence my chewed up bearings.

 

After reading more and more into this... I am wondering if when ford changed my pinion seal at 34k miles or so... they did it with little to no care and torqued it wrong... and now the bearings inside there are failing. Since now thinking a bit after that was done... the whole truck formed kind of a wobble to it.... and now im leaking again, with a clicking noise in foward... kind of like if bearings were not racing around good...... is it possible?

 

Yup....very possible!