"2 grueling hours of masking" aka Fx4wannabe01's Tease 5.1
#101
Woah woah woah woah... ENAMEL?
That might be your problem right there. If im not mistaken ( i MIGHT be, being in CA, we dont get all the same products as the rest of the US...) the Nason enamels are single stage and require a hardener. Did the color stay sticky after you sprayed it? if so, i bet thats why it reacted. It was soft, and the laquer on top of it attacked it and caused the wrinkle. Thats very common as enamels and laquers dont get along at all!
Id check back with your paint store, or see if the label on the mix tells you if there is any hardener required. Most enamels are single stage, and im only aware of Nason having one type of basecoat and the label of the stuff you have isnt the same as that one.
on your label, whats the formula number? Its probably like 43567IO or 34597IF or something. The two letters in the formula number are what im concened with. Those denote the material series. (basecoat, acrylic enamel S/S, urethane S/S, synthetic enamel S/S etc...)
We can solve this
That might be your problem right there. If im not mistaken ( i MIGHT be, being in CA, we dont get all the same products as the rest of the US...) the Nason enamels are single stage and require a hardener. Did the color stay sticky after you sprayed it? if so, i bet thats why it reacted. It was soft, and the laquer on top of it attacked it and caused the wrinkle. Thats very common as enamels and laquers dont get along at all!
Id check back with your paint store, or see if the label on the mix tells you if there is any hardener required. Most enamels are single stage, and im only aware of Nason having one type of basecoat and the label of the stuff you have isnt the same as that one.
on your label, whats the formula number? Its probably like 43567IO or 34597IF or something. The two letters in the formula number are what im concened with. Those denote the material series. (basecoat, acrylic enamel S/S, urethane S/S, synthetic enamel S/S etc...)
We can solve this
#102
#103
Ok i just looked up their TDS (i blew up a pic of the can and saw the series of paint - an IE suffix)... you DONT require a hardener for this stuff so you are ok there. I think most of your problem at this point does in fact arise from the clearcoat that you used. Im not sure if this material is meant to be clearcoated to begin with, as the TDS on the product doesnt even have a reccomendation for a topcoat time. the only mention of anything close to that is a recoat time of 48 hours and a 'tack free;'ime of 1-2 hours (which seems long btw, you can clearcoat over regular basecoat in like 20 minutes)
For what its worth, next time you buy paint for a project like this youll be better served to use the standard Nason Ful-Base basecoat. It is still pretty cheap, and is meant to be clearcoated. This stuff you have looks like its meant to be just sprayed on like you would an aerosol can product and left alone. I still think you can get what you have to work, but make life easier next time and use the other stuff.
The formula for the proper basecoat would use the same number, but it would have IF at the end of the number to denote Nason Ful-Base.
For what its worth, next time you buy paint for a project like this youll be better served to use the standard Nason Ful-Base basecoat. It is still pretty cheap, and is meant to be clearcoated. This stuff you have looks like its meant to be just sprayed on like you would an aerosol can product and left alone. I still think you can get what you have to work, but make life easier next time and use the other stuff.
The formula for the proper basecoat would use the same number, but it would have IF at the end of the number to denote Nason Ful-Base.
#104
Gotcha. I was really surprised with the result after the first coat of color. I'm used to having the color be sorta dull and needing a clear(this is merely coming from experience with the duplicolor rattle can color match stuff).
I suppose I'll sell some more things, order up some more emblems, and get me the real base coat and clear. I think my buddy who painted my visor still owes me a pint of the real stuff....
You know...I've got these two painted rear bumpers that I may use what I have left over on one........
Maybe I'll find my darn detail sprayer(a real sprayer) and do it right next time. These are the 2nd and 3rd emblems I've done...and it's a pretty good improvement over the 1st one(that now resides on my tailgate)(and if you forget the clear coat issue). lol.
I suppose I'll sell some more things, order up some more emblems, and get me the real base coat and clear. I think my buddy who painted my visor still owes me a pint of the real stuff....
You know...I've got these two painted rear bumpers that I may use what I have left over on one........
Maybe I'll find my darn detail sprayer(a real sprayer) and do it right next time. These are the 2nd and 3rd emblems I've done...and it's a pretty good improvement over the 1st one(that now resides on my tailgate)(and if you forget the clear coat issue). lol.
#105
#108
#112
Jerk.
#113
#120
Not installed yet..I havn't updated my thread have I? lol.
Not lazy because I've been calling my buddy who painted my visor for my left over paint everyday for about a week!! I have however, purchased a new tack cloth, and 2 rolls of different thinner, less tackier 2" tape. And some new xacto blades as well. Craft store FTW!
Not lazy because I've been calling my buddy who painted my visor for my left over paint everyday for about a week!! I have however, purchased a new tack cloth, and 2 rolls of different thinner, less tackier 2" tape. And some new xacto blades as well. Craft store FTW!