SL d/s is double cardan

 

Ok slightly modified the x-member. Measured the driveshaft.Tomorrow I'll cut and turn down the shaft, plug it and weld it. Post pics in the p.m.

 

Here's a few pics. Don't hate on my xmember. just temporary until I finish the radius arms. Then I'll tie in a new crossmember and skid plate.


This is a comparison of old and new.

 

Nice work. I'm jealous for sure.

 

so shiny haha

 

looks awsome man..

now the pictures of the driveshaft on the ground comparing them

the one on the left thats the stock ranger with the cv at the end and the one on the right is one you had made or got from another vechile?

truck looks great you do some awsome fab work

 

very nice!

and Evan i think i read somewhere its a Chevy driveshaft.

 

it looks like the cleanest thing under that truck!.......You should fix that.


Are the gold bolts on there Grade 8?

 

Thanks !!

This weekend i'll fix that.

Yes

yes and The other shaft did come from a chevy. It's amazing the variety of parts I have laying around.

 

can I ask why you have the radius arm brackets dropped down so far and not right up on the frame?

 

Mainly to help keep the pinion angle correct. I'm makeing new radius arms that are adjustable and longerwith new brackets that will bring it up to the frame.

 

What degree bushings are you using on the c-wedges? also you should focus more on your caster angle than the pinion angle where driveablity is concerned. keeping hte pinion aimed at the t-case may put your caster too close to zero for it to track decently on the street. The only concern I would have with the radius arm brackets being that low is the amout of force put on them and leverage action between them and the frame. I could only imiagine what would happen if one of those decided to rip away backwards from a bad pothole on the highway at 75... As long as there's square tube or solid plate between the bracket and frame there should be no problem as they made drop kits for those brackets on the fullsize trucks but it uses full tube to keep the forces spread evenly. yada yada I'm rambling now, it's getting late. I still need to find myself a set of those 78-79 radius arm brackets. Every lead I get flakes out.

 

Yes you are also correct about the caster. I already have 7 or 8 deg. shims now. if you'll note the height of the truck in order to keep the angle close I have to keep the radius arms more level. The buckets are mounted lower on the frame for a little more height giving closer to 10" of lift. So now to fix it I am making adjustable radius arms that are going to help correct these little problems. You are also right about the brackets needing another brace. That comes into play with the new radius arms and brackets. thanks for the questions and comments they are greatly appreciated.

On another note tireiron remind me where Methuen is in the state. I lived in Lenox While I was in the Coast Guard and commuted to Hull. great offroading on October mountain where I lived.

 

How many degrees of caster are you running right now Kevan?

I am running about 3-4 but with my D44 I am going to try 6-7 but i have a feeling ill need to grind the Cs off so that i can keep the pinion angle correct.

Whats your camber like? 0? I am not sure where to set that on the D44.

Anyway I like that adapter much better than mine, how much did it run you? without including labor?

 

I'm not sure of the caster and camber, never had it aligned. It drives straight and true with almost zero bump steer, and tires wearing even. That doesnt make it right tho, so once I get the radius arms finished we'll see how far or close it is. hope to have them done by xmas so I can start on bumpers.

The material costs was about 30 bucks for ea and a couple hours labor.

 

Awesome, it's definitly looking good. The actual caster should be somewhere around 4 degrees just like the ranger. Thats a pretty average range for it. You don't actually have to get it aligned to check the caster and camber, just get a magnetic angle finder (about 10 bucks at home depot or the like) and support the axle at ride height with the tires off. To check the camber you just have to stick the angle finder on the disk vertically (just check to be sure each side is at the same angle unless you are perfectly level) and to check the caster picture a line drawn through the upper and lower BJ and attach the angle finder to that to see how far back the top is tipped (3-4 is generally pretty comfortable) and if the top is tipped foward then you really need to some work heh. Having a good caster is what keeps the wheels tracking back to center on their own after a turn.

Methuen is right up on the NH boarder by Lawrence and Haverhill above boston. Hull is a pretty good drive especially out to the coast guard station, I have done some work out there at the high school and you can't really go any further unless you have a boat.

 

man that thing is sick, good work!!!! always amazed by the work you do man!