14-17 was on past vehicles. I don't know what this one will do. There was one thing I did to make acceleration better. I took the slack out of the throttle line. 2 zip ties at the gas pedal. After that I spun the rear tires a few times by accident. It was a real dog when I got it. Foot on the floor trying to get up to speed. Darn cable stretched. Got that one from youtube.

 

Yeah, that's a fairly popular mod, as most cables seem to stretch. I oughta look at mine, although I doubt mine is stretched.
Kind of odd how I can floor it from a dead stop and those tires will grip the concrete and send me forward. I would expect a little tire squeal.

 

My tires still have the rubber things on the side saying they are pretty new. I push hard but not to the floor to get the tires to spin and chirp. This is after I did the cable shortening. It is unbelieveable how well it drives now. Very smooth shifting and all. (automatic trans) Before it was really hard to get moving. The tires didn't even spin on wet pavement. That was when I knew I had to look into something. Not much weight over rear means real easy to spin tires.

 

91 miles, 4.7 gallons. 19.4 MPG. Threw in another $10, equating to 4.4 gallons. So far so good.

 

So you must have been losing fuel through forced evaporation because of a fault in the EVAP system, hence the strong smell of fuel when it was connected to the intake manifold.

Have you worked on the EVAP system or do you plan on leaving it disconnected ?

 

if he is getting that good of fuel economy

i would just leave it dis-connected

i read an article last week about 1 person who dis-connected his evap system

his fuel economy went up , turns out the purge valve was sticking open from the engine heat

he connected the evap hose to a PCV valve and zip tied the valve to the fire wall

when the pressure in the evap system built up to a point the PCV valve would open

 

I was just wondering, he said he was off the junk yard to get an EVAP purge valve.

 

yes i read that too

if he is getting better mileage now than before , i would just leave it dis-connected

cold weather is approaching , vapour build-up would be very low

 

So I'm guessing by eliminating the evap valve you take away the chance for the gas to equalise pressure as temperature changes. Like on a 1 gallon gas can. That yellow cap you had to leave open or open sometimes before you open the can to pour. There isn't a doubt gas is lost that way. Just isn't there a chance for problems without the valve? In this equation I'm thinking of gasoline in its gas state.

 

hence why the person installed a PCV valve in the evap hose to the engine away from the engine heat

build up of vapour pressure inside the evap system would force the PCV open and allow the engine vacuum to draw the excess vapours out of the evap system

then the PCV valve would close when pressure drops

 

Cool idea. I misted that part. That is getting the job done then.

 

I havent gone yet, I plan on doing that at the same time as I get parts for a friend of mine. I am considering leaving it disconnected, if all I have to do is clear a code once a month. I may try the PCV valve, though.

 

he never stated if he had to add more rubber hose to the evap system to add the PCV

but i would assume that he did

 

MPG up can only be better for the longer life of an engine. That is a huge advantage. Also proving some sensors that through code lights aren't in the engines best interest. That is a really great idea you have.

I'm tracking my gas mileage with this tank. I will do it for the next 3 tank fulls to see if I want to replace the fuel filter or not. Easy to do. Not expensive part. But if I'm satisfied with my current MPG. I won't change the filter yet. I guess it comes down to I want to enjoy it and not put money into it. I am enjoying it. Instrument cluster lights are a must. Thats my priority right now.

 

actually it was not my idea

i was just doing some investigation for cameron

i just came across that article doing a google search

 

Ok. Great job doing it and making it work well for you. It is always nice to hear about people making there engine more efficient. Happy engine. Happy driving.

 

i have not done this mod for myself

as i own a ford transit connect wagon now

but i will remember this mod for when i will need it down the road

very little vapour will occur in cold weather , even if it does , the evap system pressure will very low

 

Great.

 

My current arrangement is actually less hose than what I had before. One length of the original black hose is connected to the intake with a bolt and hose clamp on the other end to prevent vacuum leaks. On the valve side, the line that would be going into the valve (or vapor supply hose) is then plugged with another bolt and secured with a hose clamp. The valve itself has no hoses going in or out, and is electrically connected.

I'm not entirely sure if going onto the highway is if what set the CEL, though. I'm wondering if it was just coincidence. Time will tell, I suppose.

 

cameron , can you take a picture of both the valve and the intake where the hose is attached

 

Sure. I'll get one here later today.

 

I've got a full tank of gas right now and we're going to see how many miles it lasts. I believe the tank is 19.5 gallons? Unfortunately the pump doesn't tell me the right amount, as I had half a tank to start with. Dropped to 1.99 and I had to take advantage of it.

Here's those pics I promised. Sorry, I've been preoccupied with other stuff as of late. The first one is the original hose plugged off with a tight fitting bolt and hose clamp at the other end pointed down. Second one is a view of the valve and the hose that would be going into the valve. The hose on this end is also plugged off in the same way. The vacuum line is plugged off, of course. So far the valve is only connected by it's electrical connection and the bolts which hold it in. No hoses go in or out of the valve in any way shape or form.

Also, I wound up not getting one because the Ranger seems to use a unique one, which doesn't crossreference to any other ford vehicle that would be in my yard. Crown vic, taurus, expo, etc.

 

i would just purchase a good length of hose and connect a proper sized PCV valve to the longer connected hose and leave it at that .

when the EVAP pressure builds up , it will force the pcv valve open and allow the engine vacuum to draw out the vapours , pressure will drop , the pcv valve will close

 

That's what I'll likely do. Beats 55 bucks for a valve.