Achieving the Ideal 4-5" drop on 2005 2WD
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Achieving the Ideal 4-5" drop on 2005 2WD
After hours of surfing the forum I think I got most of my questions answered and also got help from members. Thank you Ryan L.
Subject matter is a 2005 XLT Extended cab with 3.0 stick.
This is not my first time customizing a vehicle but want to make it into my first without cutting corners. Want to keep the motor performance stock but add a custom stance, and a few custom body pieces.
So far I have Roush Body kit and billet grill. On the way is a set of 17x9 Bullitt wheels. Tires are going to be 255-50-17 or 235-55-17s. Any comments on tire size would be appreciated considering:
I use my truck as a daily driver and also need to tow my 6x12 enclosed trailer on the weekends. So a low profile tire is not an option.
I am going for a 4-5" drop and will buy the DJM kit plus shocks. What else is there to it without cutting corners? Any information on a c-notch? and will this notch affect my frame when towing?
Also is there any info on the pinion angle when "flipin" the axle?
I also want to add / upgrade front and rear sway bars from Roush. Any experience with this?
I've had my truck for about two months and it's my first Ranger. And like I mentioned before, I want to look back when I'm done with it and see that it was done the "right" way.are those coils heated??
This is a very fine and informative forum. Congrats to all that participate.
In my case, there's limited info on "how to" when going static lowered compared to lifting. Would love to go sky high, but my better half is shorty like me!! I'm more of a road racer kind of guy. Plus Houston is all flat and concrete.
So if you had a wish list on how to do a 4-5" drop, what would you add or change?
Thank you all for any info and comments.
Subject matter is a 2005 XLT Extended cab with 3.0 stick.
This is not my first time customizing a vehicle but want to make it into my first without cutting corners. Want to keep the motor performance stock but add a custom stance, and a few custom body pieces.
So far I have Roush Body kit and billet grill. On the way is a set of 17x9 Bullitt wheels. Tires are going to be 255-50-17 or 235-55-17s. Any comments on tire size would be appreciated considering:
I use my truck as a daily driver and also need to tow my 6x12 enclosed trailer on the weekends. So a low profile tire is not an option.
I am going for a 4-5" drop and will buy the DJM kit plus shocks. What else is there to it without cutting corners? Any information on a c-notch? and will this notch affect my frame when towing?
Also is there any info on the pinion angle when "flipin" the axle?
I also want to add / upgrade front and rear sway bars from Roush. Any experience with this?
I've had my truck for about two months and it's my first Ranger. And like I mentioned before, I want to look back when I'm done with it and see that it was done the "right" way.are those coils heated??
This is a very fine and informative forum. Congrats to all that participate.
In my case, there's limited info on "how to" when going static lowered compared to lifting. Would love to go sky high, but my better half is shorty like me!! I'm more of a road racer kind of guy. Plus Houston is all flat and concrete.
So if you had a wish list on how to do a 4-5" drop, what would you add or change?
Thank you all for any info and comments.
#2
from what ive gathered recently, 255/50/17 is too tall for a 4" front drop, so may have to reconsider that...
4/5 drop consists of- 2" djm coils (not heated, theyre made shorter), upper and lower control arms, shocks (ppl prefer different ones, i like belltech nitro acvtives)
rear is basically just a flip kit, not much to it, if you are buying right now, stylintrucks.com has the best price on the kits
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.as...sults_trigger=
that will include everything you need except for shocks
4/5 drop consists of- 2" djm coils (not heated, theyre made shorter), upper and lower control arms, shocks (ppl prefer different ones, i like belltech nitro acvtives)
rear is basically just a flip kit, not much to it, if you are buying right now, stylintrucks.com has the best price on the kits
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.as...sults_trigger=
that will include everything you need except for shocks
#3
Sounds like you're doin it right. I've got the DJM kit on mine, and believe me, it was straight bolt on. Even the alignment was close enough to drive to the alignment shop on. What I haven't done yet, but would recomend, would be a pinion angle shim. I haven't noticed and high speed vibrations, but I think it's a good idea in the long run. I'm not c-notched and almost never bottom out, but if you are going to be pulling a trailer, By all means c-notch it. I just haven't put them in yet. If you notch it corectly and have someone thats good at structural welding put it in, alot of times a 3" notch actually will strengthen the frame around it, so don't worry there. Your ride will get a bit stiffer, but it will also have a lot less "wiggle and sway" to it, making it seem almost smoother at speed. I would recomend gettin the 1.25" Beltec sway bar to round out the handling package. I stay flat and level right up to the point the tires can't take any more. Sounds like you have a good start on a great truck! have fun!
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#8
for front tire size, i think it has to be under 26" ? maybe, mark98xlt knows what it is and i think the 245/45 would work, but if it were me, i would keep all tire sizes the same so they could still be rotated and such, plus i dont like staggered tires on trucks unless theyre the same height, but different widths
#10
BTW, I'm running 225/70R15 27" stock tires on mine with very little rub. Some rub is to be expected when you go low though.....
Last edited by Johnbaum13; 04-03-2008 at 06:55 PM.
#12
#13
As for tires Anything around 26 will be fine, I run 25 or so with 235/45/17 but I don't rub at all. I say run smaller tires and avoid the rubbing because there is screws on the driver side underneath the plastic inner fender that will eat the middle of your tire and take chunks out of it. Other than that its just noise. I really recomend you stay away from anything near 27" inch in diameter due to rubbing.
As for shocks depends on what kind of ride you want but since you will be towing I say you go for air shocks when you tow air them up and when your not just let the air out of them. DJM's and Toxic's are the same shock. Belltech makes a nice shock also which is better than the toxics. You also have an option for running Nissan Hardbody shocks in the back when its dropped as well they are cheaper and ride like a stock shock.
Bolt in notches are nice, if you dont need one right away you can get away fione with just trimming the bumpstops. With just a flipkit out back it puts you about half inch of clearance away from the bumpstops to the axle, then you can trim them. There is no need to weld if your not towing anything but all the extra stress your putting on the frame by towing I assume with a class 3 hitch I would have it welded or not notch the frame at all. I dont see anything getting hurt having weight on the axle on frame at same time I drove around for the past 2 years with no notch and my axle is on the frame.
Alighment you will have to get aftermarket eccentrics to help correct the camber so you dont get ripped off in price of parts at the alignment shop plsu the labor in parts to install them so its easier just to install them yourself and go to the shop and just have it aligned Ill get the part numbers for you for them from napa later on tonight.
Any other questions just ask
Youll love the kit.
#14
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AWESOME!! Thank you all. This info has been great. I think I will be running 225-50-17s. They are about 25.9 inches in diameter.
And yes, I have a class III hitch. I ordered the DJM shocks but will also look into the airshocks.
Does anyone run assist air bags? I had a set on my explorer and they worked great while towing. The Ranger is the substitute for the explo.
And it would be awesome if you can get me that info on the eccentrics so I can install when doing the A arms.
This project is being lined up for the summer. Thats why I am buying parts now. I will be posting pictures as I go.
And yes, I have a class III hitch. I ordered the DJM shocks but will also look into the airshocks.
Does anyone run assist air bags? I had a set on my explorer and they worked great while towing. The Ranger is the substitute for the explo.
And it would be awesome if you can get me that info on the eccentrics so I can install when doing the A arms.
This project is being lined up for the summer. Thats why I am buying parts now. I will be posting pictures as I go.
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Hey guys, I got all my 4/5 suspension parts in. Unfortunatly I'm stuck with a large "honey do list" that will take the next few weekends. So it looks like this will be my June Project, but it's ok.
I ordered the DJM shocks and noticed that the rear shocks are different numbers. One is DJM1900 and the other is DJM1800 which means one is longer by 1 inch than the other. Is this how it should be? and if yes, which one goes to the front and which to the rear of the axle?
Also, I still need to find air shocks for the rear. You have mentioned the nissan hardbody shocks fit a dropped ranger rearend. Is there a specific year of nissan?
I think the air shocks are the missing piece in my puzzle. I will really need them for towing.
I ordered the DJM shocks and noticed that the rear shocks are different numbers. One is DJM1900 and the other is DJM1800 which means one is longer by 1 inch than the other. Is this how it should be? and if yes, which one goes to the front and which to the rear of the axle?
Also, I still need to find air shocks for the rear. You have mentioned the nissan hardbody shocks fit a dropped ranger rearend. Is there a specific year of nissan?
I think the air shocks are the missing piece in my puzzle. I will really need them for towing.
#17
BTW, in the instructions with the drop kit, you'll find the part # for the eccentrics to align it. I bought that same part # from my local ABC Auto. And yeah, get them and put them in when you drop it. I bought them, but let the alignment shop put them in, and it cost me $40 to have them put in, and $30 to align it. The bolts cost me $35 btw.
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#23
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Sorry for disappointing you guys. It’s been frustrating to have all these parts scattered around my house and not have the time to do any work on the truck. The only good thing is that it’s because of work that I haven’t had the time. Oh, and don’t forget IKE; that was fun. We’re still picking up debris.
But I WILL have it lowered and with new rubber by the end of the year. I really don’t want my wife rapping any of the suspension boxes and telling me that’s my Christmas gift!! Lol
I will post as soon as I get started.
About the Roush sway bar... is it worth adding it?
But I WILL have it lowered and with new rubber by the end of the year. I really don’t want my wife rapping any of the suspension boxes and telling me that’s my Christmas gift!! Lol
I will post as soon as I get started.
About the Roush sway bar... is it worth adding it?
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