I've been reading up about changing out control arm bushings and ball joints and what all that entails. I was "overjoyed" to read that the torsion bar has to be unloaded. I read on another forum that if you don't have the special tool, you could do the following to get the torsion bar out.
- jack truck up off the ground by the frame
- remove adjuster bolt
- remove wheel
- remove top shock mount (or the whole thing)
- put a jack under lower control arm for support
- remove pinch bolt for top control arm
- let the arm travel down
- possibly step on lower control arm to remove remaining bind
I've heard of guys using a c-clamp or gear puller, but if I'm going to be doing ball joints anyway, I'm going to need to remove the upper control arm anyway. Has anyone done something like this??
I know that the "springi-ness" comes from twisting the bar...and how it attaches to the lower control arm...but what I'm not sure about is how the torsion bar works on the other end. I've found an image with the cover off and there really isn't much there holding everything together.
In the image, it looks like the bar wants to unwind clock-wise and I see how the adjuster works...but what the hell keeps it in place? Is it just the pressure against the adjuster bolt and the plate above the "knuckle"?
Mine: '98 Ranger XLT 3.0L SuperCab w/ manual 4x4 "Off Road" 193k miles
Wife: '07 Mitsubishi Outlander LS AWD 3.0L 128k miles
My 3.0 puts out 150HP...hers puts 220HP...something is wrong here!
Future Restoration: '77 Chevy 2WD K5 Blazer