Need to make the right purchase this time, wheels and tires.
#1
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Need to make the right purchase this time, wheels and tires.
So last year i purchased Moto Metal wheels with Toyo Open country tires, within a few months of the purchase i realized this was not going to cut it for me. My tires are load range D, which is O.K but with my wheels that are the wrong backspacing/offset i had to get a suspension lift to be able to drive without rubbing everywhere i go. Now with a little more funds in my account i'm willing to drop some more money on finding the right shoes for my truck. If anyone can guide me in the right direction as to what backspacing works best (i want to wheels stickin out of my fender a little) also i want to be able to drive without feeling every bump in the road, preferably a LOAD C or P metric as i was told by my local mechanic, which is the same mechanic that sold me load D tires so i'm somewhat apprehensive.
#3
Stick with a Load C tire... P metric is more for SUV/Passenger vehicles. Not so good if you plan on using it as a truck. But.. just my opinion.. I've run both on mine... Load C in my 33's... P's in my 245's before the BL.
As far as backspacing... 3.5-4 inches is about right. a LOT of rims are 3.75ish. I think the Mickey Thompson Classic Locks and Classic II's are 3.25.. less backspacing equals sticking out further.. Plus those both look good.
As far as backspacing... 3.5-4 inches is about right. a LOT of rims are 3.75ish. I think the Mickey Thompson Classic Locks and Classic II's are 3.25.. less backspacing equals sticking out further.. Plus those both look good.
#4
#5
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
I just wrote this somewhere else… I am just learning a lot of this stuff because I made the wrong tire/wheel selection myself.
16” Mud tires or LT tires are load range “E”, no other way, why have not been able to get an answer from any manufacturers’.
15” tire 33s and 35s are load range “C” or the new rating 108 to 112 all equates to “C”.
I will be buying a new set of 15” rims and 33x12.5 tire soon enough but for now I have to put up with a rougher ride and a lot of bounce.
Oh ya, lowering the tire pressure to compensate for the harder ride is a No-No… it only leads to bad tire wear and more noise from the tires. I rotated my 16” tire every three months, five times so far and i have two of the tires, that had the lowest pressure in them, are now slappers, with the whack/whack noise, very annoying.
My new tires will be either the 15” BFG KM2 or the ATs.
Another “Oh Ya”… rims, no more than 4” BS, I find this works but it rubs some on the 285s with 4” lift; I think stk is 3 3/4”.
16” Mud tires or LT tires are load range “E”, no other way, why have not been able to get an answer from any manufacturers’.
15” tire 33s and 35s are load range “C” or the new rating 108 to 112 all equates to “C”.
I will be buying a new set of 15” rims and 33x12.5 tire soon enough but for now I have to put up with a rougher ride and a lot of bounce.
Oh ya, lowering the tire pressure to compensate for the harder ride is a No-No… it only leads to bad tire wear and more noise from the tires. I rotated my 16” tire every three months, five times so far and i have two of the tires, that had the lowest pressure in them, are now slappers, with the whack/whack noise, very annoying.
My new tires will be either the 15” BFG KM2 or the ATs.
Another “Oh Ya”… rims, no more than 4” BS, I find this works but it rubs some on the 285s with 4” lift; I think stk is 3 3/4”.
#6
I just wrote this somewhere else… I am just learning a lot of this stuff because I made the wrong tire/wheel selection myself.
16” Mud tires or LT tires are load range “E”, no other way, why have not been able to get an answer from any manufacturers’.
15” tire 33s and 35s are load range “C” or the new rating 108 to 112 all equates to “C”.
I will be buying a new set of 15” rims and 33x12.5 tire soon enough but for now I have to put up with a rougher ride and a lot of bounce.
Oh ya, lowering the tire pressure to compensate for the harder ride is a No-No… it only leads to bad tire wear and more noise from the tires. I rotated my 16” tire every three months, five times so far and i have two of the tires, that had the lowest pressure in them, are now slappers, with the whack/whack noise, very annoying.
My new tires will be either the 15” BFG KM2 or the ATs.
Another “Oh Ya”… rims, no more than 4” BS, I find this works but it rubs some on the 285s with 4” lift; I think stk is 3 3/4”.
16” Mud tires or LT tires are load range “E”, no other way, why have not been able to get an answer from any manufacturers’.
15” tire 33s and 35s are load range “C” or the new rating 108 to 112 all equates to “C”.
I will be buying a new set of 15” rims and 33x12.5 tire soon enough but for now I have to put up with a rougher ride and a lot of bounce.
Oh ya, lowering the tire pressure to compensate for the harder ride is a No-No… it only leads to bad tire wear and more noise from the tires. I rotated my 16” tire every three months, five times so far and i have two of the tires, that had the lowest pressure in them, are now slappers, with the whack/whack noise, very annoying.
My new tires will be either the 15” BFG KM2 or the ATs.
Another “Oh Ya”… rims, no more than 4” BS, I find this works but it rubs some on the 285s with 4” lift; I think stk is 3 3/4”.
#7
#8
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Each tire has it perfect tire pressure based on the tire and the weight it is holding up and if you vary too much from that pressure you end up with incorrectly worn tires. You can go just so low on a tire before it does not perform the way it should, tire pattern and cornering.
Just what I have run into over the last year.
Go 15” tires with a std tire size, 31,32,33,35… etc.
#9
As the load range of the tire goes up, c to d to e, side wall strength increases and in turn a harder ride in a lighter truck.
Each tire has it perfect tire pressure based on the tire and the weight it is holding up and if you vary too much from that pressure you end up with incorrectly worn tires. You can go just so low on a tire before it does not perform the way it should, tire pattern and cornering.
Each tire has it perfect tire pressure based on the tire and the weight it is holding up and if you vary too much from that pressure you end up with incorrectly worn tires. You can go just so low on a tire before it does not perform the way it should, tire pattern and cornering.
I have found that most 16” Metric tire size, 285x75x16 and the like are all “E” rated, the equivalent in a std size, 33x12.5x15, is rated “C”…, the same hold for the 35s I have been looking at.
Just what I have run into over the last year.
Go 15” tires with a std tire size, 31,32,33,35… etc.
Just what I have run into over the last year.
Go 15” tires with a std tire size, 31,32,33,35… etc.
#10
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I want to go with 31x10.50 BFG A/T just need some good wheels options. I liked the Mickey Thompson Classic Locks but they are supposedly out of stock everywhere i check locally. I like the looks of the wheels and they seem to be popular amongst this community. What are some other options for wheels, looking for under 3.75 backspacing. I had the cragar soft 8, daytonas in mind but im still not too sure.
#11
Buy 32x11.5's. BFG 32 is a 31.7"
#13
Correct larger high flotation fitments can have lower pressure specs. Other than that exception the load rating will follow those pressure specs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
05RangerXLT
General Ford Ranger Discussion
31
11-18-2010 02:16 AM
99MazdaB4000
General Ford Ranger Discussion
13
07-23-2009 08:19 PM
DviousDave
Drivetrain Tech
12
09-23-2007 11:56 AM