I just purchased one of these 2002 2.3L and it doesnt seem to get up to speed on the interstate very fast. It does fine while cruising but when getting up to speed on an 80mph interstate I can lay the hammer down and it takes a good 8-10 miles before it finally hits the 80mph and doesnt really get over that mark. Is this normal or am I losing power somewhere. The only check engine code I have had is the intake manifold runner failure, which I am replacing that part within the next couple of days.

Thanks

 

I honestly can't tell you if the 8-10 mile figure is excessive or not, but the 4 cylinder engines the rangers were equipped with is designed to be a gas saver, which it manages to do. My 3.0 V6 has a similar issue, although it doesn't take quite as long. WOT is the only way to actually accelerate. No idea where it peaks out at.

If you want to look around, give your plugs and wires a checking. If they're worn you may be able to restore an ounce of pep to it. Same with the air filter; let that engine breathe. You know; tuneup items. Don't hold your breath though.

 

I drive a v6 and it will haul booty when i floor it, even from 50 mph, i agree with TheArcticWolf1911, defiantly give it a check up, you could add a bit more power by straight piping it, but thats probably not what you are looking for,

I recommend checking the accelerator cable, to check for looseness, pull your gas pedal backward, there should not be more than a half inch or an inch , and even that will reduce power,

I also reccomend removing the snorkel, it constricts air flow to the engine and removing makes the hole wider, allowing more air for better power

 

All that air snorkel does is quiet down the engine noise, hence the 'airbox mod'.

Other than that I agree with your suggestions.

 

Also remember that this is a higher RPM engine.
Specs here: 2001-2003 Ranger 2.3L Duratec 135 HP @ 5050 RPM, 153 lb-ft @ 3750 RPM

So if you are cruising at 2,500RPM and floor it will take a bit to get it into the correct RPM range for max torque, 3,700rpm
Downshift to get into higher RPM range first, then "floor it"

If you have an automatic then it may not be downshifting as it should.

Yes, Google: Ranger throttle cable mod

If throttle cable has stretched then computer may not "see" you want max. acceleration, WOT(wide open throttle).
Computer uses TPS(throttle position sensor), on the upper intake, to detect WOT, if cable has stretched then "foot to the floor" doesn't show WOT at the TPS, so you would have no downshift and less acceleration.

The variable intake manifold runner control adds to your power so if it is not working that could be your problem.

An "intake runner" is the air passage that connects each intake valve to the intake's plenum(central chamber).

Basics of intake runner length and power
When an engine is running air is sucked into the open intake valve via the runner passage, this applies to EFI and carbs.
When intake valve closes a pressure wave is created at the intake valve end of the runner passage from the sudden stopping of the air rushing in.
This pressure wave travels back up the runner passage to the plenum, and will bounce back down the runner passage towards the intake valve.
At a certain RPM range, this pressure wave will hit the now reopened intake valve and force more air into the cylinder, like a mini-turbo/super charger.
That narrow RPM range when you get more power is decided by the length of the runner passage.
That is basic intake manifold design 101.

IMRC(intake manifold runner control), allows variable runner passage lengths, so the advantage is obvious, you can extend the "sweet spot" in the RPM range where you get the benefit of runner length and pressure wave bounce back.

If IMRC is not working then you will lose power you once had in certain RPM ranges.

 

much better way of putting the throttle cable mod

 

I have a 2003 2.3L with manual 5-spd and 3.73 rear gears (stock 225/70R15 tires) and this thing scoots for a 4cyl. Although the speed limits around here max out at 55 mph, I can get up to 60 rather quickly. If I were doing 60 mph and dropped it down to 4th and nailed it, I'm sure I could get to 80 mph in a very decent amount of time.

If it's taking a long time to get up to speed I'd guess maybe it's one of these:

1. Your IMRC actuator arm has popped off the IMRC rod ball and jammed the flaps in a closed'ish position. You'll need a good flashlight and inspection mirror to check it out unless you pull your drivers side front tire and wheel well guard because it's at the back of the intake manifold up against the firewall.

2. Your fuel pump may have good pressure but not the required flow. You'll want to check fuel pressure at idle, cruise and WOT. Should stay between 58psi-65psi. If those check out good then check the flow rate.

2a. Could be a dirty fuel filter.

3. There is an exhaust blockage. A vacuum gauge can be used to check this.

4. Your throttle body flap isn't opening up far enough due to a stretched cable (as was said above).

5. Your Throttle Position Sensor is mis-adjusted. You'll need OBD software that can read that sensor (such as Torque Pro or forscan.org).

6. Or an incredibly dirty air filter.

7. Or you are running very low gearing with very large tires. Example 3.55 gears and 33" tires.