I unplugged the alternator and ran a jumper from the green/red wire on the intake coil to the battery. I still have the same issue.

Any thing in the key actuator that would cause this?

 

It still dies when 'hot wired'?

Then I would retest adding fuel manually again, after startup, maybe you fixed one problem and now have another

No, the fact you have 12volt on red/light green wires means ignition switch should be in correct position, which is what actuator does when you turn the key to its 4 positions

 

I added 5 gallons to the fuel tank just to be sure, sprayed ether in the intake. It fired again and died.

Any wires in the ign switch harness I could test?

 

No not really, either you have 12v on red/light green wires in start and run or you don't

I would get another ICM from wrecking yard or ??, to test

 

This doesn't make any sense, I tested again both coils are receiving 12v.

I'll try to track down another ICM. If you think of anything else please let me know.

Would an ICM off a 2.3 89 mustang work?

 

Ok I had someone help me turn it over while I sprayed ether. I was able to keep it running for a few seconds longer. I hooked up a Fuel pressure gauge and it showed 40 psi while cranking, after waiting 5 min it bled down to 38ish psi.

 

OK, thats something new
So engine kept running but stopped when YOU stopped adding fuel manually?

Engine will run fine down to 10psi, but spec is 30-40psi, so pressure isn't the issue

Fuel injectors are now on the radar, which means computer, and EEC relay
Injectors all get 12volts from the EEC Relay with key on, red wire, it just daisy chains from one injector to the next

The computer GROUNDS each injector to open it.

Check for 12volts at an injector, key on

The ground at the injector is hard to test for, it happens very very fast, 100ms, milliseconds, so standard volt meter wouldn't be helpful

You could pull out computer and open it up, look for damage, easy to see on circuit board
What you should see here: Ford EEC-IV

The 3 blue capacitors are known issues after 25 years or so, can be replace for under $5

 

ECU
With the key on I have 12v at all the injectors, I removed the ECU and it looks fairly clean except for a bit of corrosion.

I removed the corrosion, hooked everything back up but the problem still remains.

My ecu did look different than the one in the link,

 

Looking around for any loose wires I noticed the previous owner bypassed the clutch safety switch by jumping the pink wire with the blue and red wire. He also just left the other 2 wires open a grey/red and a blue yellow. Anyone have schematics to Identify those wires or if they would cause an issue?

 

I replaced the fuel injectors same issues
Just a recap
-Ran ok, had a miss when I bought it.
-Adjusted timing now only runs while cranking
- while cranking I can rev the engine and it runs fine, no misses
- replaced, plugs, IAC, fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition switch, injectors, thermostat and housing (leaking).
Previous owner replaced coils, radiator, timing belt, and Icm <used>

I have power to coils key on and off,
power to injectors key on.
Cleaned all the grounds.
Maf tested good.
Relays tested good,
40 pounds fuel pressure.
Obd scanner is not reading codes <I think the connector is bad>
Will run off ether for a few seconds after switching key to run.

At one time it was running after messing with the wires under the dash. Shut off tried restarting same issue.

Vacuum hoses could be replaced, besides that I am lost on where to check next.

Thank you for your help