I'm thinking of doing a swap over the summer so right now I'm putting together a list of parts I will need.

So far here it is, and whatever I'm forgetting post and I'll add it.
engine with turbo - $200 from upullandpay
Rebuild kit - $?
ecu tune - $50 I think thats how it works
clutch - $125
Manifold - $200
Downpipe/exhaust - $?

By the way it is a 96 ford ranger with the 2.3.

 

What engine are you getting?

Can get a rebuild kit for under 100 bucks

 

don't tune your computer, just get the one that's in the car you pull the 2.3 t from.

 

there are some good sites out there for this. most people actually use their stock block, and fit the turbo manifolds onto it. Search on RPS for info...lots more helpful on this subject over there.

 

The only thing using the turbo manifold is having to upgrade the internals so it turns into a big rebuild instead of building an engine and then doing the swap over the weekend.

 

But that will be made for obd-1 instead of the newer version that comes in 95+ year cars.

 

http://www.turborangerforums.com/

 

Yep I'm on there too.

Some guy was saying that the dual plug head flows a lot better than the turbo head so it would probably be easier to pull it and replace the pistons and rings then turbo it. This seems easier to me as I can do it in steps instead of all at one time.

 

Thats my bread and butter.

You want:
Forged bottom end, pistons rods the works.
Ported head, bigger cams, springs & valves.
large intercooler
cone filter intake
1000 cc injectors
255lph walbro fuel pump & upgraded lines/rail
aem engine management
map sensor conversion
wb02 sensor(s)
hard pipe plumbing
ceramic coated manifold
upgraded clutch
high flowing exhaust
external tial wastegate
manual (or electronic) boost controller
Mitsubishi or (Garrett if you have the money) turbo(s)
appropriate gauges (boost, AFR, oil temp/pressure, maybe egt)
Most important - a good tuner

Really the fuel system is one of the most important. This is usually overlooked.

It is going to be expensive if you want to make a turbo beast, but you can go cheaper with still reasonable results. If it were me I'd shoot for 250-300 whp, thats very attainable and still driveable. I'm sure I'm forgetting something but someone will catch it.

I really want to build myself a turbo 2.3 but I don't have the time for 2 science projects at once, plus i have the 3.0ohv now

 

Get a good dyno tune, don't go cheap here!

 

I'm looking for more on the cheap end so i was thinking about 200 - 225 hp. Plenty for driving around.

 

200HP is i believe what the 4.0 has from Ford. That should be about 160WHP. Right now you probably have about 100WHP. If you go with a cheaper setup make sure it is tuned to perfection as a 60WHP jump is alot for a stockish type setup.

Always remember you can have any 2 of the 3 things:

Fast
Cheap
Reliable

If you start trying to pull too much power from a cheaper setup you will be running an aggressive mixture that will eat up your pistons and any knock can break the engine fast.