Doublechecking my 4.56 re-gear part list, help! - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Drivetrain Tech General discussion of drivetrain for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 05-31-2007
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Icon4 Doublechecking my 4.56 re-gear part list, help!

Summit has the best prices I could find on Richmond Gear.

4.56 8.8 Standard Cut R&P set http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=8192&N=700+

Which one of these notched cross pins do I need? Two are listed; same price, both made by richmond, different part numbers though. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=8192&N=700+

Richmond Gear Mega Series R&P Installation Kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=RMG-831043M




4.56 D35 Standard Cut R&P set http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I guess Richmond doesn't make an installation kit for a D35. It's not listed on their site, then again it doesn't list ANY part for a D35 and I found their gears.

So I found ones made by Motive, Superior, and Ratech. All around $150. I found a Terraflex kit but they want $230 for that. pshhhh.

So, is my list complete? Any suggestions on the D35 installation kit? Any issues with the D35 4.56's and my aussie lock that's going in at the same time?

Royal Purple is going in both diff's. I can use the oem weight in the front but what weight is to be used in the rear with the torsen? I know the manual say's 'FX4 only' with a different weight than the others. Is that what I should use?
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Old 05-31-2007
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you wont need the notched cross pin.....just take a bit out of 1 of the ring gears teeth and your stock pin will slid right in........

the rear end can take the same weight gear oil as the front.....75w90 full synthetic......

just a suggestion, i would run some cheaper synthetic gear oil in the diffs for about 500-1000 miles and then drain it and fill with the Royal Purple.....that way if there is any shavings from the gears breaking in, it wont stay in your diff........no matter what fluid you run in your truck, you should drain and refill after 500-1000 miles........

if you use full synthetic in the rear, you wont need any friction modifiers for the Torsen....
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Old 05-31-2007
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The torsen doesn't need friction modifier......it's clutchless

Good idea about the cheap stuff+flush though. If gumby is up to it, I might see if we can tap a hole for a bottom drain plug.

The LII rear needs a different weight though according to the Ford manual.

I'd almost rather spend the $$$ on the notched cross pin than tear up new gears.
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Old 05-31-2007
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since the housing will be completely empty, i dont see a reason not to add a drain plug. jus make sure you bring a plug and the correct size drill bit and tap!

we may or may not have big enough stuff here depending on what size plug you get.

notched pin vs. clearencing the teeth is up to you, both work.
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Old 05-31-2007
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If you want let me know what size plug you are going to install and I can bring the drill bit and tap with.

Chad
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Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l2en
The torsen doesn't need friction modifier......it's clutchless

Good idea about the cheap stuff+flush though. If gumby is up to it, I might see if we can tap a hole for a bottom drain plug.

The LII rear needs a different weight though according to the Ford manual.

I'd almost rather spend the $$$ on the notched cross pin than tear up new gears.
well then why you asking what weight the rear end takes? get your lazy *** out and look in your owners manual

when are you coming to Indy to do the gears? i might have to ride up that day....
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Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby
since the housing will be completely empty, i dont see a reason not to add a drain plug. jus make sure you bring a plug and the correct size drill bit and tap!

we may or may not have big enough stuff here depending on what size plug you get.

notched pin vs. clearencing the teeth is up to you, both work.
Sweet, I'll find a plug then. I'm only thinking a one inch diameter. Nothing too big, beats trying to suck the stuff from out the top. Any ideas on the thickness of the plug?

Which would save time/be easier as far as pin vs. clearancing? Don't wanna be up all night with this damn thing after a ten hour drive =]
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Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l2en
Sweet, I'll find a plug then. I'm only thinking a one inch diameter. Nothing too big, beats trying to suck the stuff from out the top. Any ideas on the thickness of the plug?

Which would save time/be easier as far as pin vs. clearancing? Don't wanna be up all night with this damn thing after a ten hour drive =]
as far as ease, either 1.......but make sure you get the CORRECT notched cross pin........i ordered the 28 spline pin with the 28 spline pin part # from Summit and i got the 31 spline pin with a 28 spline part # on it....
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Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
when are you coming to Indy to do the gears? i might have to ride up that day....
I'm coming up the Friday before the badlands meet (July 13th?)

You should bring your street queen out for some action =]
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Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l2en
I'm coming up the Friday before the badlands meet (July 13th?)

You should bring your street queen out for some action =]
sweet! i might ride up if the gf doesn't have anything planned......

yea i bet i jump right on that......i don't think i will make Badlands, but i might make the gear swap....
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Old 05-31-2007
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make sure you get the correct application on the pin, for sure. you have the torsen, make sure they know that when you order if you go that route!

fluid weight; i see no reason to differ from fords req.
gears dont care, and the front locker wont care either.

IMO synthetic is a waste of $$$ in a truck that sees any under water time. but its your $$$
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Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby
IMO synthetic is a waste of $$$ in a truck that sees any under water time. but its your $$$
true that! and since it is about time for you to sink your truck again Travis

if you swap to synthetic Gumby, you can get the stock weight.....closest thing is 75w90....
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