Water in oil and in all 3 passenger side cylinders and has 30 lbs of compression
So today i pull the heads off Thinking we have a bad head gasket Butt i cannot see any damage to the gaskets ?
all 3 pistons were clean How would coolant get in all 3 passenger side cylinders and and fill the oil pan up with coolant
This happened fast The drivers side is fine

 

Welcome to the forum

How did intake gasket look on that side, there is coolant passages in each corner?
Intake coolant passages could crack and coolant would be sucked in to one bank via intake valves, what do the back sides of those look like?
Was there coolant in the Valley?

Coolant won't transfer from one cylinder to another easily, so look for the common passages they share
Coolant can get into oil via cylinder rings, but wouldn't be any in the Valley

The 3.0l does have a throttle body coolant passage, a pre-heater

 

All the oil is milk even on top of the valley
I cannot see any bad spots on the gaskets 5 of the intake valves leak a little So im just going to get some reman heads
these heads had lead washers on the freezeplug and they melted so it got hot Probably cracked head
I would like to know is were the water went had to go somewhere ? It did not leak did not run hot
till the wife drove it 400 miles yesterday and 400 last week Her truck is mostly a grocery getter

 

Valley would have unmixed coolant if it was leaking there

3.0l Vulcan is notorious for water pump leak in the front cover(timing chain cover) passages, that can go directly to oil pan
But can't see it getting into cylinders

I do think its a head gasket issue, for a few reasons, compression at 30 is number one, then coolant in 3 cylinders is number two
But you should see or feel that on old head gasket

 

The majority of the water most likely went into the exhaust system. A cracked head and blown head gasket is most likely to put coolant in to all 3 cylinders. Without getting the head checked or seeing the obvious, we will never know. lol. The milky oil concerns me about how long the engine ran like that and whether any damage occurred to the bearings.

 

Most heads crack around the valve seats so look there, some crack under the seat and can't be seen, so the only way of knowing where for sure is to have it pressure tested,
If the block had cracked the weakest point is where it's thinnest, between the cylinders at the top, look for cracks there.

The Vulcan engine would have had to been severely over heated for the above to happen though.
If it has been over heated badly, I would have the block checked for warpage as well.

 

Okay I figure the lower end is toast also
I am going to put a motor in it I can find a bunch of Sable and Torres motors but there front wheel drive motors
there still a Vulcan 3.0 8th digit U if i swap intake and oil pan it will work Right

 

Yes, same 3.0l Vulcan V6 but...............They have different head gaskets so the coolant flow thru the engine is front to back, because they are mounted sideways
So you should plan on changing head gaskets

 

I did think about that
Looking at the motor the thermostat was at the rear
Im in no hurry now to swap motors I am going to sell it and buy the wife a brand new 2021 Ranger today

 

Be sure and inspect the frame for rust.
They're also having problems with jerky transmission too where re-flashing the computer is only a temporary fix.

 

The new Ranger ?

 

Yes, there are a few threads here with some of those problems, but that's just here, I would still mention it though.

 

Another question I am searching for a motor What is the difference between a 8 digit Vin U and 2

 

2 is for a car, transverse mounted, so you would need to change head gaskets

V and U were used in Rangers, V was Flex Fuel, but U or V can be used in either gas only or flex fuel, you just need to match fuel injectors to vehicle/computer

 

Okay any Vulcan 3.0 will work It's a pain in the butt finding a Ranger motor $ 800 + Sable Torres $ 400 why ? This is why i will get the front wheel drive motor and there is a bunch available

 

No body wants to change the head gaskets out, they just want to drop the engine in.

 

Yup i have to change intake manifold anyway so 16 head bolts not a big deal

 

Okay bought a motor from a junk yard complete It had new heads on it and looks like it was never started
Today i put it in and it a no start I turn key and nothing i went under the truck and jumped the starter and it turns over but won't run
What the hell I didint unhook the starter i stuck in the frame out of the way .
It looked like it had a new coil then i look and the plug wires they had the left side wires on the right side and the rights on the left Looks like to me they never got it to run
after the head job and junked it .
This motor came with the wiring harness the only thing different was the down stream 02 senser That is not going to stop from cranking and running

 

Not quite following your post.........................

You got a used 3.0l engine
Put it in and it won't start
Well wouldn't turn over, but you fixed that by putting starter motor in?

So it cranks now but it won't fire up?

Have you tried 50/50 test?
to see if its fuel or spark/compression issue

 

Yes used engine with new heads I have a feeling that it did not run after doing the heads so it got junked
I was told it ran great I don't believe that The plug wires were on wrong .
I turn the key and it does nothing I can turn motor over jumping the posts at the starter still no start
its got fuel PSI I can't tell if it has spark yet It would be nice if when i turn the key to rotate the motor

 

Starter motor not working has nothing to do with the replacement of engine, that's separate wiring specific to vehicle, 2006 Ranger

Is this a manual or automatic?

Automatic has a Neutral switch on drivers side of transmission so shifter must be in Park or Neutral, or starter motor can't be activated using the key
Make sure switch got plugged back in
And try starting in Neutral instead of Park
Fuse 21, 5 amp, in cab fuse box needs to be good or no starter motor<<< test this fuse

Also need to mention PATS and "THEFT" light(padlock) on the dash, with key on THEFT light should come on and then go off, that means PATS test of key was OK, if THEFT light flashes then test was NOT OK and no starter motor, and no injectors

Starter motor has TWO wires attached
Larger wire from battery positive<<<usually Red
Smaller wire to activate starter motor<< usually Yellow wire

The yellow wire comes from the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box
When the key is turned to START 12volts goes to Fuse 21, out of fuse 21 to Neutral switch, out of Neutral switch to Starter relay to activate that relay
Relay closes and sends battery 12volts on the Yellow wire to activate starter motors internal solenoid relay
PATS grounds the starter relay, IF key passes PATS test, no ground = no relay

These wires should all be separate from engine wiring harness

Once you sort out the no crank
You can test compression on a few cylinders, they should be 150+ psi, under 120psi would not be good
Also do 50/50 test to see if its a spark or fuel issue for the no start

And make sure Crank sensor on the lower front of engine is plugged in, this is the ONLY SENSOR that can cause a no start


What year vehicle did the used 3.0l come from?
Some years may have different wiring pins in the big plug

Reversed coil pack wiring is not a sign of an issue since this spark system is Wasted Spark, there are only 3 coils in the coil pack, not 6
Coil pack can be wired
3 4
2 6
1 5
or
4 3
6 2
5 1

As long as 1/5, 2/6, and 3/4 are on the same coil in the coil pack it would run the same

 

Okay it's alive The wiring harness from the new motor was no good today i put the original harness on and the plug wires were not in order ether
Now before the motor took a crap it was dripping ATF on to the cat I figured it must be the front pump seal at the torque converter so while the motor was out i put a new one in
Well it still drips Well that sucks Im going to steam clean under it and see were the hell its coming from

 

Pretty awesome you figured it all out and running again! Let us hear how it goes with that and any other break in adjustments. Interesting read.