07 XLT coil or pcm ??
07 XLT coil or pcm ??
Hello. Brand new to this forum but not to the car community. Familiar with engine swaps, entire car builds etc over the years.
So I have been able to figure out a few things already.
The biggest problem I'm having is that the ranger I'm dealing with is where I'm visiting in Central America. Which means parts.
Parts. As in getting them, new or used is quite difficult.
Got a friend's truck to drive around which has been grossly neglected and has sat for months at a time with no real driving. Lately I started using it to do some real work and driving it some good miles.
Noticed a miss on the truck. It was getting annoying and told my buddy I wanted to fix it. I Wasn't driving it awhile and working on the mainland so my friend had someone else work on it because he didn't want me to have to work on a truck while here. It ended up with a new fan, fan clutch, oil change, air cleaner, rear differential seal. I drove it again after that one time, seemed to run good but still felt a miss, owner was told the engine and trans mounts needed changed when he picked up the truck and that's why it shakes a bit. Then from parking it to two days later and starting it, its running so bad it literally won't go above 40mph or go up a steep hill from a stop at all. A/c stopped working at the same time too (which I would think is just a coincidence)
I'm lucky enough to have tools here and I threw my code reader in the box just in case I needed it.
First, I've already checked all sensor plugs and wires as best I can. All seem in order and nothing weird or obvious.
Ran the obd scan and came up with fault codes po351 and po351-ff (ignition coil A primary circuit fault) the other was po645-ff (A/C clutch relay circuit) but I had just jumped the a/c at the really box to see if I had Low or hi pressure, or no freon but jumped it works fine so that's a secondary problem I feel at this point. No other codes that could be related, others about a shorted interior light and other minor things but nothing engine related
My questions are, is there a way to ohm check the coil pack? If not the coil pack is the ecm the only other possibility? Are ecms hard to obtain considering I read you need the keys that came with any used one and there's some type of reprogramming. (True?)
What are the chances the miss was there, is there and has nothing to do with the latest issue of absolutely no power?
I know you shouldn't on an electronic engine but I went old school out of frustration and pulled #2 spark plug wire when running, yup, got zapped, engine stopped running then pulled #1 plug wire several times, no change in running and did not seem live. If I would of thought of it I should of pulled #5 as well since they run in pairs but I didn't.
I also swapped #1 and #2 wires thinking maybe a bad wire but nope, no change, #1 still seems dead. The fact any wire I pulled seems live but 1 did not makes me think it's just not firing.
Need to be extra sure before I ship anything down that may fix it. Any input anyone could give is greatly appreciated.
So I have been able to figure out a few things already.
The biggest problem I'm having is that the ranger I'm dealing with is where I'm visiting in Central America. Which means parts.
Parts. As in getting them, new or used is quite difficult.
Got a friend's truck to drive around which has been grossly neglected and has sat for months at a time with no real driving. Lately I started using it to do some real work and driving it some good miles.
Noticed a miss on the truck. It was getting annoying and told my buddy I wanted to fix it. I Wasn't driving it awhile and working on the mainland so my friend had someone else work on it because he didn't want me to have to work on a truck while here. It ended up with a new fan, fan clutch, oil change, air cleaner, rear differential seal. I drove it again after that one time, seemed to run good but still felt a miss, owner was told the engine and trans mounts needed changed when he picked up the truck and that's why it shakes a bit. Then from parking it to two days later and starting it, its running so bad it literally won't go above 40mph or go up a steep hill from a stop at all. A/c stopped working at the same time too (which I would think is just a coincidence)
I'm lucky enough to have tools here and I threw my code reader in the box just in case I needed it.
First, I've already checked all sensor plugs and wires as best I can. All seem in order and nothing weird or obvious.
Ran the obd scan and came up with fault codes po351 and po351-ff (ignition coil A primary circuit fault) the other was po645-ff (A/C clutch relay circuit) but I had just jumped the a/c at the really box to see if I had Low or hi pressure, or no freon but jumped it works fine so that's a secondary problem I feel at this point. No other codes that could be related, others about a shorted interior light and other minor things but nothing engine related
My questions are, is there a way to ohm check the coil pack? If not the coil pack is the ecm the only other possibility? Are ecms hard to obtain considering I read you need the keys that came with any used one and there's some type of reprogramming. (True?)
What are the chances the miss was there, is there and has nothing to do with the latest issue of absolutely no power?
I know you shouldn't on an electronic engine but I went old school out of frustration and pulled #2 spark plug wire when running, yup, got zapped, engine stopped running then pulled #1 plug wire several times, no change in running and did not seem live. If I would of thought of it I should of pulled #5 as well since they run in pairs but I didn't.
I also swapped #1 and #2 wires thinking maybe a bad wire but nope, no change, #1 still seems dead. The fact any wire I pulled seems live but 1 did not makes me think it's just not firing.
Need to be extra sure before I ship anything down that may fix it. Any input anyone could give is greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the forum
Need paragraphs, lol, your post is hard to read
On a 2007 Ranger the digital dash(HEC) and Computer(PCM) are a set so can't just swap one
And yes, it has PATS so swapping either or both would require PATS keys that were also matched
So you are not getting Misfire code P0301, misfire #1, thats odd
The P0351 code is something I have never seen on Rangers
Yes, you can test OHMs on coil packs, and it can show one of the coils in the pack is bad, but it can't tell you if its good
There are 3 coils in the pack
The red wire on the 4 wire connector is the 12volt wire, so its pin on the coil pack is what ohm meter is hooked to
Then test each of the other 3 pins to the "power pin"
0.8 to 1.8ohms is expected, so very low ohms which is why tests are not conclusive with any ignition coils
But main reason for testing all 3 is.........ARE THEY EQUAL, should be very close to the same ohms on all 3, so even if all 3 were 2 ohms it would be OK, its just a "meter" reading error
Those are the primary circuits
Secondary is the spark out terminals and wires, also spark plug itself
On coil pack 7k ohms to 12k ohms is expected
Spark plug wires are usually 10k ohms per foot of wire
On the 3.0l Vulcan engine the most common cause of a misfire is burnt exhaust valve, actually a TSB for it in 2004-2006 3.0l Rangers
Need paragraphs, lol, your post is hard to read
On a 2007 Ranger the digital dash(HEC) and Computer(PCM) are a set so can't just swap one
And yes, it has PATS so swapping either or both would require PATS keys that were also matched
So you are not getting Misfire code P0301, misfire #1, thats odd
The P0351 code is something I have never seen on Rangers
Yes, you can test OHMs on coil packs, and it can show one of the coils in the pack is bad, but it can't tell you if its good
There are 3 coils in the pack
The red wire on the 4 wire connector is the 12volt wire, so its pin on the coil pack is what ohm meter is hooked to
Then test each of the other 3 pins to the "power pin"
0.8 to 1.8ohms is expected, so very low ohms which is why tests are not conclusive with any ignition coils
But main reason for testing all 3 is.........ARE THEY EQUAL, should be very close to the same ohms on all 3, so even if all 3 were 2 ohms it would be OK, its just a "meter" reading error
Those are the primary circuits
Secondary is the spark out terminals and wires, also spark plug itself
On coil pack 7k ohms to 12k ohms is expected
Spark plug wires are usually 10k ohms per foot of wire
On the 3.0l Vulcan engine the most common cause of a misfire is burnt exhaust valve, actually a TSB for it in 2004-2006 3.0l Rangers
Welcome to the forum
Need paragraphs, lol, your post is hard to read
On a 2007 Ranger the digital dash(HEC) and Computer(PCM) are a set so can't just swap one
And yes, it has PATS so swapping either or both would require PATS keys that were also matched
So you are not getting Misfire code P0301, misfire #1, thats odd
The P0351 code is something I have never seen on Rangers
Yes, you can test OHMs on coil packs, and it can show one of the coils in the pack is bad, but it can't tell you if its good
There are 3 coils in the pack
The red wire on the 4 wire connector is the 12volt wire, so its pin on the coil pack is what ohm meter is hooked to
Then test each of the other 3 pins to the "power pin"
0.8 to 1.8ohms is expected, so very low ohms which is why tests are not conclusive with any ignition coils
But main reason for testing all 3 is.........ARE THEY EQUAL, should be very close to the same ohms on all 3, so even if all 3 were 2 ohms it would be OK, its just a "meter" reading error
Those are the primary circuits
Secondary is the spark out terminals and wires, also spark plug itself
On coil pack 7k ohms to 12k ohms is expected
Spark plug wires are usually 10k ohms per foot of wire
On the 3.0l Vulcan engine the most common cause of a misfire is burnt exhaust valve, actually a TSB for it in 2004-2006 3.0l Rangers
Need paragraphs, lol, your post is hard to read
On a 2007 Ranger the digital dash(HEC) and Computer(PCM) are a set so can't just swap one
And yes, it has PATS so swapping either or both would require PATS keys that were also matched
So you are not getting Misfire code P0301, misfire #1, thats odd
The P0351 code is something I have never seen on Rangers
Yes, you can test OHMs on coil packs, and it can show one of the coils in the pack is bad, but it can't tell you if its good
There are 3 coils in the pack
The red wire on the 4 wire connector is the 12volt wire, so its pin on the coil pack is what ohm meter is hooked to
Then test each of the other 3 pins to the "power pin"
0.8 to 1.8ohms is expected, so very low ohms which is why tests are not conclusive with any ignition coils
But main reason for testing all 3 is.........ARE THEY EQUAL, should be very close to the same ohms on all 3, so even if all 3 were 2 ohms it would be OK, its just a "meter" reading error
Those are the primary circuits
Secondary is the spark out terminals and wires, also spark plug itself
On coil pack 7k ohms to 12k ohms is expected
Spark plug wires are usually 10k ohms per foot of wire
On the 3.0l Vulcan engine the most common cause of a misfire is burnt exhaust valve, actually a TSB for it in 2004-2006 3.0l Rangers
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