2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

1993 Ranger 3.0L Start then No Start.

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Old Jan 19, 2024
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1993 Ranger 3.0L Start then No Start.

Hello all, I recently purchased my first Ranger and want to learn any tips and tricks to maintain my new truck. Unfortunately I have run into an issue and have asked around, and am trying to pinpoint the problem.

I have a 1993 Ranger 3.0L, drove the truck home everything fine but then couldn’t get it to start again. I waited until the next day and then it magically started normal with no issue, I shut it off and again, crank but no start.

Checked my fluids, most were good, radiator had lots of sludge so I flushed and added new coolant. Figured might have a fuel issue and changed the fuel filter too. (Caught fuel and did have gunk mixed in) So I drove the truck around and when I got to a stop and pressed the gas, the truck shut off. Tried again the next day and noticed when I was in idle and pressed gas the truck was stumbling then shut off after a few tries. ( heat was on so don’t know if that was also an issue)

The guesses I’ve been thrown my way basically point to the fuel pump but before I do that I was trying to find the simple or cheap solutions first. Anybody also run into this problem?

Edit*: previous owner also installed a kill switch, if that matters
 
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Old Jan 19, 2024
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Welcome to the forum

1993 3.0l will have a distributor and a TFI module
Get a can of Quick Start(ether in a spray can)

You are going to do the 50/50 test to see if you have a fuel or Spark issue with your "crank but no start"
This test has been used since 1890's and the very first gasoline engines

Here is a picture of the upper intake on an older 3.0l engine: https://www.therangerstation.com/wp-...ast_intake.png
At the back is a black vacuum hose that runs to the power brake booster
You will need to pull that hose off at the booster end but leave the white check valve in the booster, do this now so you know how to get the hose off, then put it back on
Start the engine if possible

If it won't start now, or at the next "crank but no start" remove the hose and spray Fuel(the ether) into the hose, put hose back on
Try to start engine
If it fires and/or starts then you have a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't fire/start then its a spark issue
50/50 instant results
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024
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Originally Posted by RonD
Welcome to the forum

1993 3.0l will have a distributor and a TFI module
Get a can of Quick Start(ether in a spray can)

You are going to do the 50/50 test to see if you have a fuel or Spark issue with your "crank but no start"
This test has been used since 1890's and the very first gasoline engines

Here is a picture of the upper intake on an older 3.0l engine: https://www.therangerstation.com/wp-...ast_intake.png
At the back is a black vacuum hose that runs to the power brake booster
You will need to pull that hose off at the booster end but leave the white check valve in the booster, do this now so you know how to get the hose off, then put it back on
Start the engine if possible

If it won't start now, or at the next "crank but no start" remove the hose and spray Fuel(the ether) into the hose, put hose back on
Try to start engine
If it fires and/or starts then you have a fuel delivery issue
If it doesn't fire/start then its a spark issue
50/50 instant results
not sure how much to spray but sprayed some into the hose then placed back like you said but didn’t get a start.

same thing happened today started like nothing is wrong but after the shut off to start again it wouldn’t turn on and it seems if I keep trying to crack it the battery will drain.( might be the cold weather) so this might be a spark issue? Where should I start?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024
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Have a look at the CEL(check engine light) on the dash
It should come on with key on, that means the computer has booted up, in 1993 the computer runs the fuel system only, spark is a separate system
When you crank the engine the CEL should go OFF, this means the computer is getting a timing/spark pulse from the spark system
If CEL stays on then no timing pulse from spark system

Can't spray too much fuel in, so try a bit more, also pump the brake pedal 4 to 6 times first, until it gets hard to press, this drains the vacuum from booster, so the fuel is sucked in faster when cranking
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024
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Originally Posted by RonD
Have a look at the CEL(check engine light) on the dash
It should come on with key on, that means the computer has booted up, in 1993 the computer runs the fuel system only, spark is a separate system
When you crank the engine the CEL should go OFF, this means the computer is getting a timing/spark pulse from the spark system
If CEL stays on then no timing pulse from spark system

Can't spray too much fuel in, so try a bit more, also pump the brake pedal 4 to 6 times first, until it gets hard to press, this drains the vacuum from booster, so the fuel is sucked in faster when cranking

cranked it again and noticed the lights that come up are the battery light and ABS light. And now that we’re talking about brakes, the brake pedal feels non existent. I push the pedal down and it feels like I get no pressure, could the brake booster be an isssue to the system then?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024
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Turn on the key
Does the CEL come on?


Have you looked to see if there is brake fluid in the reservoir?
But nothing to do with No Start
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024
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Originally Posted by RonD
Turn on the key
Does the CEL come on?


Have you looked to see if there is brake fluid in the reservoir?
But nothing to do with No Start

No check engine light at all, yes when I first got the truck I added some brake fluid because it was very low.

I got it to start again, the only lights that turned on were the check oil, battery, and ABS light. I pressed the gas a little and the truck shut off again.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2024
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If it started then computer is powering up but the CEL bulb is burnt out, not a good sign, it means its been driven for a few years with the CEL on all the time

Best bet would be to find a parts store that will loan/rent you an OBD1 reader, it plugs into connectors in the engine bay, and will list 3 digit codes that will tell you what might be the problems

3 digit code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...3-digit-codes/

Can't use the flashing CEL to get the codes since its not working

 
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Old Mar 25, 2024
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Did end up checking the check engine light and it seems a past owner covered it with cardboard pieces stuffed in the compartment, strange since there is no check engine light anyway. The codes I got from the paper clip test have to do with the fuel pump/relay, temp sensor and throttle body position sensor. Will be checking these areas one at a time
 
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Old Mar 25, 2024
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Need exact code numbers if you need help with that
 
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Old May 8, 2024
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Could be an intermittent fuel pump relay. When you turn on the ignition, listen for a brief ticking sound. Brief is one or two seconds. That is the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel system. My 1993 3.0 had an intermittent relay, replaced it, problem cured. Cheaper than a new fuel pump. I keep a spare relay in the truck, and check the relays (my truck has three) contacts in the relay box under the hood every few thousand miles. I use dielectric grease to protect against corrosion.
 
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