2000 ranger that was swapped from a 2.4 to a 3.0 5 speed manual. Engine idles anywhere from 1500 to 2k when cold. Seems to stay between 1000 and 1500 when warmed up. While driving in any gear it will sputter at times and act like it's going to die. If i shift to neutral and goose the gas and go back into gear the sputtering seems to go away. Also when in 5th gear at 55 im at 3k rpm. At 65 4k. Is this normal? @RonD tagged you since you've been helping me lol

 

No, those RPMs and speed in 5th are pretty far off

You have an M5OD-R1 transmission
in the 3.0l version it has these ratios
1st: 3.72
2nd: 2.20
3rd: 1.50
4th: 1.00
5th: 0.79

RPM calculator here: https://purperformance.com/p-29669-rpm-calculator.html
You need your tire diameter, google" tire size and "diameter" and it will show diameter, i.e. 215/60R14 diameter = 24.2"

Rear axle ratio should be on the Drivers door label, back edge, under AXLE will be a two digit "number", look it up here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ag-door-codes/

Then calculate, its just math no guess work, if RPMs are not correct then one of the numbers entered is not correct, tire diameter and rear axle ratio are the variables
ALSO speedometer.....................since the GEM is not original it may have the wrong calibration for tire size, so speed signal is off
Use GPS app on your phone to see if speedometer is accurate, or mile markers on the road with odometer

 

Speedo is accurate. I used waze for speed when it didn't work. When it started working I checked and it's about 2-5mph off. Tire size is 235/75/15, here is pic off door label ​​​​​​​

 

Can't see AXLE ratio

29" tire

60mph with 29" tire and 3.73 rear axle in 5th gear(.79) = 2,000rpm

In 3rd gear it would be 3,800 at 60mph

 

Here is what it says for that line info

Wb. Brk. Int tr. Tp/ps. R. Axle. Tr. Spr. 849b
126. B. E2. L/ z. 87. M. Ck

What size tires should I run? Need new ones anyways

 

87 is your rear axle ratio code and that means 7.5" OPEN, 4.10 ratio

If speedometer is only off 2-3MPH at say 60mph then stick with same size/diameter

 

Ok, I found the correct gem on ebay. Part number YL5T-14B205-EB going to get this Friday. That should fix the rpm/speed issue yes? Either way it's the right one for the truck correct?

 

No, looks like the EB revision is for 4x4, I thought yours was 2WD

You want one for a 2000 Ranger 2wd without keyless entry(I assume) so most likely will have A? revision, AC or AD maybe

The GEM was the 4x4 controller from 1995 thru 2000, it will have 2 more plug-ins I think, might work fine

No, if speedometer is accurate now then then your RPM vs Speed is something else

 

Aside from being a 4x4 gem any issues? I do plan on adding power windows, locks, and mirrors, but I'll just hardwire that stuff if I can get away with it and bypass the gem on those. as for the rpm vs speed issue, guess my research continues. I have to get the exhaust redone and the o2 sensors hooked up. Thing has what almost looks like soot coming out of the tailpipe. Thoughts on that?

 

No O2s?????

Yes, engine would be running WAY WAY TOO RICH, its would stay in CHOKE MODE


Use the calculator I posted the link to above
29" tires, 4.10 ratio axle, in 5th gear(.79) at 50MPH you should be at 1,900rpm(approx)

If not then either Speedo is off or Tachometer is OFF, and if it was a 4cy engine and its a V6 now then Tach WILL BE OFF

Instrument cluster needs to come out and you need to add a Ground wire to pin 8, on connector C216

1996 to 2003 clusters were all the same engine size didn't matter, but 4cyl cluster WIRING didn't have a ground on pin 8, V6s did to make Tach correct

 

Dude you're knowledge is amazing. You're like me with Hondas lol. I'll get the tac fixed as it was a 2.4l before. As for the emissions, I have no cats, 2 upstream o2, and the downstream o2 is the wrong connector. Whats the opinion on putting the cats back in with a flowmaster 40 series? Also, since i have 3 o2 sensors and connections for them at the harness, how many cats do i need? The 2 on the uostream y pipe, and the 2 downstream or ? Someone who has a 95 ranger 4 cyl. Told me to just straight pipe it and just have the tip of the downstream o2 entering the pipe and it would run great. Not to sure about that. I swear people in Tennessee don't believe in catalytics lol Since I'm going to change out the o2's for new ones I ran sea foam through the brake booster hose, some in the crank case, and fuel tank. Wasn't able to start it so I'll give it a try tomorrow am. Think I might have angered the spark plugs lol.

 

2.5l was in a 2000 Ranger 4cyl, just FYI

If upstream O2s are working then not sure why the rich running??
These control fuel mix the computer uses, lean or rich feedback

Cats are users choice if you don't have to pass emissions testing
But downstream O2 won't work without them
Downstream O2 doesn't effect engine operation but will set code and turn on CEL(check engine light) because its an Emissions issue

Cats don't effect power, same for mufflers, if they are "working right", just expensive

1 or 2 downstream O2s were/are decided by the computer you are using, if computer was programmed to "see" 2 downstream O2s then it will set a code if there is only 1
Wiring harness should either have 1 or 2 O2 plug-ins by transmission

 

I only have 1 plug for downstream o2. I pulled codes and got a bunch. I'll pull them again tomorrow morning and post here as I didn't write them down. Those codes are what's causing it to run rich and almost sputter out when driving. It's almost like it's getting too much fuel and choking like you said. If cats arent going to affect the engine as far as stochiometric is concerned then I'll run without. I'll just get the exhaust redone so it isn't the hack job on it now. Almost Got all the issues solved. Just need to get the engine running right and ill be good.

 

If you have been working on the engine then Clear all the codes, and go for another drive to get current codes, problems will show up in codes again

Ford Code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...trouble_codes/

P1000 is a code you will get and won't go away

 

​​​​@RonD on the back of the cluster i have plug locations c 1, c2, c3. do you have a picture or a diagram of which plug i need to ground that wire on, as well as orientation so i get the correct wire? i have 2 white plugs, and one black. thank you again

 

Yes, pin 8 on C216 needs to be grounded for V6 tachometer

Label as such in diagram

 

Got it done. Thank you again @RonD