i was looking at long term and it sat around 23 and 19 the whole time

 

It’s hard to say how quickly your long term values would change because the long term values are learned from the short term over time. With your engine running make sure your code reader says it’s in CLOSED LOOP meaning your engines warm and it’s using the o2 sensors to adjust fuel trim. Look at the short term values if you start the car after plugging a leak with the duck tape method the short term values will quickly drop to a neg number once your car entered closed loop and your long term will start to drop eventually because it learns from the short term

 

ok i will try again

 

For ***** and giggles you could test your vacuum for heater control valve and cruise control simply by testing if they work.

if your cars warmed up turn the heat on and see if it blows HOT. not just outside air but hot like the heaters on. If it seems like the heat works your heater control vacuum lines are probly fine.

just take it for a spin and see if your cruise control works. Seems like that’d be easier than tracing the cruise control wire all the way back to the vacuum port.

 

 

for ***** and giggles i may have found the ******* problem

 

Heater control valve I can’t really tell what’s going on because it’s so zoomed in

 

Did your vacuum line come unplugged???

 

its not unplugged it cracked a bitch. Ill try and get a better picture

 

has to be it

 

That’s the coolant hose. The hot coolant runs from the engine to your heater core which gives you hot air. The skinny air line going to that valve is what you want to check

 

 

God ******* damn it. I thought i had the problem. Oh that skinny hose broke but i put it back in and the vents started working again. This was a while back

 

If that hose were broken off it could cause lean codes

 

I'm pretty sure I had the lean codes before that. I could be wrong ):

 

What if you took it for a spin to check the cruise control

 

that will work

 

cruise control works

 

Ok I think your getting close to ruling out vacuum hoses. Did you ever test your break booster?

how does the car run at idle? Can you tell it runs poor?

 

You said you changed the plugs was that before or after it had lean codes

 

As a matter of fact my brake booster screw was loose as **** when i looked at it yesterday, one of them was all the way in the other was only being held in from rust. But i screwed it back in. But checking the hose with break clean and nothing. Yes the truck runs like poop at idle. Not as bad like it did before i changed o2s and spark plugs but there is still vibration. You can see the mirrors shake

 

Can you list the fuel trim data at idle?

after you check the break booster try the throttle body shaft seal on the left side (you’ll see a spring)
just spray a little break clean

 

Everything I have done was after lean codes, So yes I thought changing o2s and sparks would help. It did help but im still lean. Short term fuel trim is pretty much always -2 to 2, for both 1 and 2. Long term on the other hand around 20-30 for 1 and 2.

 

Ok did you spray break clean on break booster and the throttle body ?


you can also just try to hear for any hissing sound like air getting sucked in

 

Yea i sprayed brake clean on the brake booster and nothing(both sides of the hose). I feel like i have heard hissing from the driver side but my dad said i was trippin so idk. When i press on gas long term fuel trim goes down to like 15 for both banks.