So if I get a 2005 Mercury 3.0 engine, what head gaskets would I get? For my 2002 ranger? I looked at the oil pumps and they show to be different part numbers.

 

You want the head gasket, water pump, and oil pump for the 2002 Ranger and new head bolts.

 

Thanks for the input. I am making sure it is a 3.0 Vulcan. Its amazing how cheap I can get a used one with a warranty. Much cheaper thn I can rebuild the existing one.

What about replacing the timing chain set? I want to get 200k out of this engine so I am willing to do whatever I need to so it is done right.I got 190k out of the original one.

So far, I am replacing with new:
Oil pump.
Oil pan gasket and seals
intake gaskets
valve cover gaskets
plugs and wires
head bolts
head gaskets

I am reusing:
oil pan
water pump (current one was replaced last year)
intake
all the accessories on the front of engine ( AC, Alternator, PS Pump, etc..)

What am I missing?

Can I use the 2005 ignition pack or do I need to use the one off the ranger? Im thinking I need to re use everything I can from the Ranger to be compatible with the electrical system and not have to reprogram.

Has anyone ever done one of these swaps and done a step by step process on this forum? Would it help or just be overkill? I apologize if I'm being redundant. I just want to have everything planned and thought out before I jump in. The existing motor is in the process of coming out. Between you guys and my friends here, I should have everything covered.

 

Be sure and use the new Ford crank seal, it has a deeper groove to hold the garter spring then the after-market ones.
Replacing the cam shaft plug on the end of the block may also be good idea, it can be source of an oil leak.
Ford came up with new newly designed end cap, so use that.

Timing chains on the Vulcan are good for 300k, but are cheap to replace.

You will want to replace the timing cover gasket, that's a source of coolant leaks where it flows from the water pump into the block.

Front crank seal too.

EDIT:
Don't use oil additives, especially ones that makes your oil thick, just use what it says in your owners manual, and a good quality oil.

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...-january-2001/

 

Ok engine is here. Donor was a 2003 taurus with 56k miles. $300 shipped and delivered to my shop. 6 month warranty.

Haven't unpacked it yet. Gathered new head, intake, and oil pan gaskets, new oil pump for the ranger.

I got new head bolts but the description says for ranger edge only . Will they work on the Taurus engine?

What about electronics and ignition. I'm going to use the existing ranger ignition and electricals. Is there an issue with getting it in time or starting when I get ready to start it?

Anything else I'm missing?

The last car engine replacement I did was in the late 80s on my 77 Camaro. Done lots of lawnmowers, dirt bikes, go karts, generators, etc... Thanks for your input and patience.

 

Yes, heads bolts are the same for 1999 and up 3.0l Vulcan engines, 1998 and earlier used short head bolts

Head gaskets are not, you need Ranger 3.0l head gaskets, NOT car gaskets

You will use the Ranger lower and upper intake manifolds, with injectors and of course exhaust manifolds

So you are just using the short block and adding the new head gaskets and heads

 

Almost ready to come out

Also donor engine

 

Nice!

 

I just noticed the setup on the crank pulley is different. Im.guesing I can change this without issues? First pic is current truck engine. Second is donor engine from Taurua


​​​​ .

 

Anyone have an idea on the different set up on the front of the crankshaft in the above pics?

 

You're probably going to want to use everything off the front of the Ranger engine.

I'm thinking it's the only way your power steering pump will match up.

 

I agree. Basically you are using the donor long block. Everything else will need to be swapped from original to donor.

 

Does anyone have any idea where I can find torque specs for the ranger engine for reassembly? I found a couple of things online but they want me to subscribe to get everything I need.

 

I was under the impression someone here had done this swap? Is this not the case?

 

Most here doing any major engine work will have their own hard copy of Chilton's or Hayne's for all the torque specs listed.
If you were to ask for one specific listing then I'm sure someone would tell you, but not for all the specs.
No one is going to take the time and type out all the specs on a forum, you need to get a manual.

The forum lists owners manuals, but not repair manuals.

 

Jeff, I broke down and bought a Chilton. I figured that would be the best way to go. This si the only vehicle I didnt have a manual for.

I have always been under the impression that the balancer and flywheel were matched to the crankshaft. Maybe I am wrong... or maybe it was just for the older stuff. The flywheel is different (bigger on the ranger which means I will use the ranger starter as well) but the balancer looks to be the same. Also the crank position sensor seems to be the same so I am going to use the one thats currently on the Taurus block. I assume I dont need to change the cam synchronizer either since its in the block?

Ive never seen head gaskets made with the intake gaslet like the ones on this truck. Interesting setup but seems it would be prone to failure.

 

The differences between the cam synchro's are the number of wires, 2 or 3, that's the only reason why you would have to change it out.

Crank shaft position sensor will be 2 wires, but being a front wheel drive from the Taurus, the front timing cover may put it in a different position, this will force you to use the timing cover from the Ranger due to the wires not reaching the sensor.
It all depends on what Ford did when the Vulcan engine was put in side ways into the Taurus.

 

Crank synchro appear to both he two wire and in the same location.

Cam synched are the same and pointed 8n the same direction.

Thoughts on the head and cylinders from the pics below? Some carbon build up in the top of the cylinders but the crosshatch gone marks are still visible. No ridges in the cylinders at all. Best way to get head gasket material off the heads and block? Should I worry about the small amount of rust on the piston heads?

Any other thoghts at this point? Looking back it would have been cheaper and easier to just find a ranger engine and do a direct swap. This is a total rebuild and costing much more than anticipated

From what I've seen this isn't too bad for a $305 wrecking yard engine... and that was shipped to my house.

 

What year is the replacement engine?

2004-2006 3.0l have bad exhaust seats

My local machine shop charges $75(can $) per head to clean, pressure test and surface, well worth it IMO

Pull out lifters and keep them in order, I use egg cartons

Use a sharp putty knife/scraper on the block, put a towel over valley to prevent debris from going down into the oil pan
Put each piston at TDC and use wire brush, also wire brush the block, you can use a wire brush on a drill
You will be using a composite head gasket so small scratches won't matter

If engine can be taken outside and water pump is removed, I use a smaller hose that fits down the water jacket holes in the block, attached to garden hose to flush out the block
Use a longer screw driver, thru the same water jacket holes, to loosen debris in the corners of block and around the cylinders and flush it out

 

I figured out why the original ranger engine lost oil pressure. It seems a connecting rod bolt came out. Pump appears to still have pressure. These pics are from the ranger engine when I dropped the pan. Definitely metal present but that bolt and nut next to the drain plug is from a connecting rod.

 

That's unusual for that to happen, especially in a modern engine ???
Was that the donor engine or your original ?

On many old engines, at least British ones, the nuts were castellated with cotter pins.

 

That was the original ranger 3.0 with 191k mile . A couple of other connecting rods were at proper torque either . Just a freak failure I gues . My buddy said he has see it before but it rare.

The donor engine is smooth and tight. Before I mount the oil pan I'm gonna check the rod and main caps for proper torque. Oil pump stil has pressure but I bought a new one.

 

Check the years when you look up torque specs, the 3.0l was made from 1986 to 2008

I know some makers used torque-to-yeild(TTY) bolts on the rods as well as on the heads, 3.0l head bolts were changed to TTY in the mid 1990's I think, which is why there can be some confusion on what sequence to use
You use the tightening sequence for the BOLT you are using

 

My manual is a Chilton for 2000-2011. It doesnt break tongue specs down by specific year.

 

Thoughts on checking the torgmque on the donor engine rod and main caps before I put it back together?