2005 Ranger OD light flashes, runs rough, no acceleration
Hey! new user here,
As the title states, my ranger us running very rough and will not accelerate.
As I was on my way to work, the OD light started flashing and I lost power to the truck and could not accelerate. I pulled over and it ran fine at idle for a few minutes until it ultimately stalled out.
Took it to my local mech and put a scanner to it and states a MAF and TPS code. I've since replaced both and its still running poorly.
I've read through similar threads and all it mentions is the speed sensor on the trans or vacc lines, or something about the connection under the divers seat.
I cannot find any new vacc leaks.
What I dont understand is why is the engine running poorly if it says something is wrong with the trans.
As well, from the smell and look of the exhaust fumes it seems to be running slightly rich, little bit of black smoke,
Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks!
Jalladahutt
As the title states, my ranger us running very rough and will not accelerate.
As I was on my way to work, the OD light started flashing and I lost power to the truck and could not accelerate. I pulled over and it ran fine at idle for a few minutes until it ultimately stalled out.
Took it to my local mech and put a scanner to it and states a MAF and TPS code. I've since replaced both and its still running poorly.
I've read through similar threads and all it mentions is the speed sensor on the trans or vacc lines, or something about the connection under the divers seat.
I cannot find any new vacc leaks.
What I dont understand is why is the engine running poorly if it says something is wrong with the trans.
As well, from the smell and look of the exhaust fumes it seems to be running slightly rich, little bit of black smoke,
Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks!
Jalladahutt
Welcome to the forum
First a little advice, each sensor will have 5 to 10 codes, only 1 or 2 of these "may" mean the sensor is bad, most mean sensor is working well and is reporting a problem
So "don't shoot the messenger"
Pro mechanic should know this but since its not their money they will replace sensors *****-nilly because you are buying them and paying for the labor to install them, they will even show you, "Look a MAF sensor code, so sensor is bad", LOL, they know better, well hopefully they do, but it makes them more money and a new sensors does hurt anything, but it most likely won't fix a problem either
Always look up codes on a FULL list, like here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...II_codes.shtml
The codes the computer does NOT choose are as important as the code it did chose
So what were your EXACT MAF and TPS codes?
You can buy a Bluetooth Code reader for under $20, easy to use and you can see LIVE DATA which is very helpful in trouble shooting
The BlueDriver OBD2 reader can read transmission codes, but costs $100
OD light flashing means transmission codes were set, P0700-P0803, most OBD2 readers can not get transmission codes
2005 Ranger is 16 years old
O2 sensors are the ONLY sensors that WILL wear out, they run out of chemicals, 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first
So you should be on your 2nd set of O2 sensors AT LEAST, if close to 300k miles then go for the 3rd set
Worn out O2 sensors can set MAF and TPS codes, because computer is getting bad info from O2 but has nothing to compare it to
And when O2s start to go they will show a false Lean which causes RICH running, like you described
Not that it matters but my 1994 Ranger 4.0l has all its original sensors except for the O2s, 400k miles and still going :)
First a little advice, each sensor will have 5 to 10 codes, only 1 or 2 of these "may" mean the sensor is bad, most mean sensor is working well and is reporting a problem
So "don't shoot the messenger"
Pro mechanic should know this but since its not their money they will replace sensors *****-nilly because you are buying them and paying for the labor to install them, they will even show you, "Look a MAF sensor code, so sensor is bad", LOL, they know better, well hopefully they do, but it makes them more money and a new sensors does hurt anything, but it most likely won't fix a problem either
Always look up codes on a FULL list, like here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...II_codes.shtml
The codes the computer does NOT choose are as important as the code it did chose
So what were your EXACT MAF and TPS codes?
You can buy a Bluetooth Code reader for under $20, easy to use and you can see LIVE DATA which is very helpful in trouble shooting
The BlueDriver OBD2 reader can read transmission codes, but costs $100
OD light flashing means transmission codes were set, P0700-P0803, most OBD2 readers can not get transmission codes
2005 Ranger is 16 years old
O2 sensors are the ONLY sensors that WILL wear out, they run out of chemicals, 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first
So you should be on your 2nd set of O2 sensors AT LEAST, if close to 300k miles then go for the 3rd set
Worn out O2 sensors can set MAF and TPS codes, because computer is getting bad info from O2 but has nothing to compare it to
And when O2s start to go they will show a false Lean which causes RICH running, like you described
Not that it matters but my 1994 Ranger 4.0l has all its original sensors except for the O2s, 400k miles and still going :)
Last edited by RonD; Jun 25, 2021 at 10:21 AM.
oh huh, ok. thats great info, thank you. i didnt realize one off sensor could say something else.
i fortunately just pulled the sensors off my older truck and no change, so ive saved a lot of money over the past 2 years with my current ranger having my older ranger for parts. (starter/alternator/etc.)
my mech is a backyard guy with a full shop so hes not a professional but knows his way around things but this situation is really confusing us.
i am unsure of the specific codes being sent, ill grab them today and post them. he also says he has the ability to check the trans codes too.
so what i understand from your reply is to check the O2 sensors.
if i put a mulitmeter to the sensors, what typically should they display? so im not buying x many o2 sensors.
i fortunately just pulled the sensors off my older truck and no change, so ive saved a lot of money over the past 2 years with my current ranger having my older ranger for parts. (starter/alternator/etc.)
my mech is a backyard guy with a full shop so hes not a professional but knows his way around things but this situation is really confusing us.
i am unsure of the specific codes being sent, ill grab them today and post them. he also says he has the ability to check the trans codes too.
so what i understand from your reply is to check the O2 sensors.
if i put a mulitmeter to the sensors, what typically should they display? so im not buying x many o2 sensors.
There is no test for O2 sensors, they generate their own voltage, the internal heater can fail but that's a specific code so either heater wire is melted/broken or O2 is bad
After 12 years or 100k miles you change them, NEVER use old O2 from another vehicle, new one is cheaper than chasing your tail for a few days thinking old/new O2 was working, lol
If you think you have a failing O2 you can swap it around with another one on the SAME vehicle, and see if code moves to new location
Yes, post any codes you can
After 12 years or 100k miles you change them, NEVER use old O2 from another vehicle, new one is cheaper than chasing your tail for a few days thinking old/new O2 was working, lol
If you think you have a failing O2 you can swap it around with another one on the SAME vehicle, and see if code moves to new location
Yes, post any codes you can
ok, excellent.
ill see what the codes actually say and post asap.
sounds of it i should just replace all the o2 sensors at once. i doubt theyve been changed recently as it was a used auto dealers mech shop truck. a bit neglected unfortunately.
ill see what the codes actually say and post asap.
sounds of it i should just replace all the o2 sensors at once. i doubt theyve been changed recently as it was a used auto dealers mech shop truck. a bit neglected unfortunately.
Yes, since spark plugs and O2s give you the best MPG I generally change them when I get a "new" vehicle unless there is paper work saying when O2s were last changed
Old O2s will lower MPG 1 to 3 MPG as they approach 100k miles or 12 years, so they are basically FREE times 2 or 3 in the fuel savings over the next 100k miles or 12 years
These don't set codes because computer has no "MPG" sensor, lol, only the O2s tell computer how its doing as far as the air/fuel mix
The MAF and TPS are used to calculate air/fuel ratio so if O2s are failing then you can get "out of range" type codes from either of those sensors, because O2s are "demanding" more fuel to be added than the MAF or TPS range would indicate
Your issue may be something else entirely, all just guess work at this point, and your "seems to be running rich" pushed me in this direction
Observation is better than any computer codes, lol
Old O2s will lower MPG 1 to 3 MPG as they approach 100k miles or 12 years, so they are basically FREE times 2 or 3 in the fuel savings over the next 100k miles or 12 years
These don't set codes because computer has no "MPG" sensor, lol, only the O2s tell computer how its doing as far as the air/fuel mix
The MAF and TPS are used to calculate air/fuel ratio so if O2s are failing then you can get "out of range" type codes from either of those sensors, because O2s are "demanding" more fuel to be added than the MAF or TPS range would indicate
Your issue may be something else entirely, all just guess work at this point, and your "seems to be running rich" pushed me in this direction
Observation is better than any computer codes, lol
just got back from the mech and the scan yielded 3 pages of codes. from transmission to emissions (torque converter/tps/speed sensor/maf). we dont think its just the O2 sensors at this point.
when i start it it runs fine until i put it into drive and it chugs out.
it seems to have happened out of the blue because there were no warnings. no mpg losses, no hard shifts.
thanks for your help so far.
when i start it it runs fine until i put it into drive and it chugs out.
it seems to have happened out of the blue because there were no warnings. no mpg losses, no hard shifts.
thanks for your help so far.
Clear ALL the codes and then drive it for 15 minutes, so its warmed up, then get the codes again
That's the way things usually happen, "out of the blue" not here and then here
Some issues can come up and then get worse over time, but "out of the blue" is also common
"It was running fine yesterday"...............
Like when you get a flat tire............."it had air yesterday", I know simple example but it applies to almost any issue
That's the way things usually happen, "out of the blue" not here and then here
Some issues can come up and then get worse over time, but "out of the blue" is also common
"It was running fine yesterday"...............
Like when you get a flat tire............."it had air yesterday", I know simple example but it applies to almost any issue
Last edited by RonD; Jun 25, 2021 at 02:32 PM.
A "neglected vehicle" needs to have its T's crossed and I's dotted. How many miles are on it and how long have you owned it?
Just a small silver lining.....You'll find the O2 sensors for these trucks are quite reasonably priced.
Just a small silver lining.....You'll find the O2 sensors for these trucks are quite reasonably priced.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jjratko1
General Technical & Electrical
10
Nov 20, 2023 03:51 AM



