Hi, Wanted to ask for some help since I could not find the answer on the forum.
I recently replaced my Camshaft Synchronizer and Camshaft Position Sensor.

The truck ran fine at first. I disconnected the battery when I did the job so the computer should be cleared. I had no codes after I did it.

After a few days it started to miss and shake when stopped and at idle. I got a code of P0300 (random misfires) for a few days. Now the check engine light has been out for a few days but the problem remains. It also gets better and worse at the same RPM level.

I thought maybe I missed by a tooth or two but I don't think I did. Also it seems to me that the problem should have started right away, not a hundred or two hundred miles later. Also it is not consistently bad, it is never good, but it gets better and worse.

I did do it without the tool since I could not find one. I just lined up the new one the same way the old one came out. I used to do that with distributors and never had a problem.

Do you think the shaft moved and the timing is off. Any ideas? My timing light is broken.

Thanks for any help. I have an appt. at the mechanic on Thursday morning but would prefer to avoid the $92.50/ hr charge.

 

DD, there's a good chance the synchro timing is off.
I did mine by the eyeball method, and it drove fine, but
after ordering the tool and checking the timing, it was
indeed off. Not by much, but the synchro has to be
precisely timed (or as the manual says, "Damage To
Your Engine Will Occur!")

I was very careful in installing my synchro, but it was still
slightly misaligned. I think the alignment tool is crucial
when installing a new synchro......

 

Runnin'OnEmpty,
Thanks for the input. Where did you get the tool? The auto parts stores around here all tell me it is not even available through their company. I thought there was a Ford part # since it is one of their "special tools" but the dealer said they don't have it.

I thought I might be able to do it by loosening it and using a timing light. I think the tool method will be more accurate. Can I do it still, even if it was put in wrong at first?

I may see if the mechanic can do that tomorrow.

 

DD, I ordered my tool from handsontools.com; it was #OT6473 and
the price was somewhere around 30 bucks.

You can realign the synchro anytime, in fact I aligned mine several days
after the original installation. It's real easy to
align using the tool, and only takes a few minutes. The most time-consuming
part of the job is getting the crank dampener pointed to the #1 cyl TDC on the
compression stroke.......

 

II had it done today. Nothing changed. Total waste of money. Any ideas on why it might be stumbling? I am not even throwing codes right now but it is bouncing pretty good sometimes. I did get a P0300 for a couple of days but it went away though the problem did not. They thought maybe a head gsket leak. I thought that was all fixed by 1995. They also suggested plugs b\ut I can't imagine plugs going all at once. I am wondering about vacuum lines. Maybe I broke one or it finally let go. I might try dosing it with propane. I know it works with intake manifolds.

Any suggestions? And thanks in advance...

 

you may have fouled your plugs with the syncronizer being off

 

P0300; random/multiple misfires.

DD, check the crank positon sensor on the front of the block at the
harmonic balancer. Make sure the gap looks normal and the plug-in
is OK.

Since you don't have a CPS code yet, I won't recommend replacing
it; just giving a heads-up that it might be the culprit......

Random misfire codes are usually caused by either the CMP or CPS.....
and we know the CMP is OK.

 

Thanks for the help Runnin'OnEmpty and Grot.

I'll check the CPS. I am wondering if the CMP is okay, though I have nothing to base that on, it is new.

Grot, The techs looked at the plugs, at least some. I think I may check them though, Thanks. Id did run well for a while though and I can't imagine them going bad when it was running fine.

I Thought maybe I broke a vacuum line or something.

 

DD, Check this site out. Might help


OBD-II Trouble Code: P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

 

Thanks for the tip. I am in the process of diagnosing now. The stumble has never gone away but I get an intermittent code of P0303. I also had the radiator hose collapse, which the mechanic said is an indication of a head gasket issue, or a bad radiator cap. that is intermittent too. I was going to replace the cap to see if that helps that issue.

By the way, that is a good sight, thx agn.

 

Did you install a genuine Ford Synchronizer/CMP? Some of the aftermarket knockoffs are really poor.

 

rwenzing, I did use a new genuine Ford synchronizer, I used a Borg Warner CMP from Advanced Auto Parts. I had heard some really bad stuff abt. Dorman synchros but not much about others. It was $35 for BW vs. $117 for Ford, I figured BW should be okay.


There seems to be a heck of a spark on the coil side. Have not checked the plug side yet. Will try swapping injectors too, if not too difficult.

 

did mine when rebuilt the motor never used the tool runnin fine 6,000 miles later

 

I don't think my current issue is related to the synchro.

 

i know this is a year old but was there ever a solution to the problem that was happening?

 

IMHO The problem is twofold .
1- Some year engines had a faulty gear on the syncro.
2- Due to the extremely small opening (~1/16 inch) oil port for the lower bearing to receive lubricant , via slash and not pressure , too heavy oil weight would cause premature bearing wear. The shaft would bind and cause the gear to shear teeth.

 

fishy, Sorry i never closed out the thread. I usually try to do that when i open one even if it is months later, just to give the answer.
My radiator hose stopped going flat for some unknown reason. I did clean the cap, but I doubt that was it.

I don't know why the random misfire code was happening but it turned out I had 1 bad plug in cyl. 3. I moved the plug to 5, just to check and the problem moved to 5. I replaced it and it has been good since. Except for later on the "EGR Insufficient" code which is probably my Advance Auto Parts DPFE. I will try a Motorcraft one.

The plug was an intermittent problem. I had to get to Autozone when it was active or the light would go out and there was no code.

 

When disconnecting the battery, you are not resetting the ecm. It really does nothing except erase radio etc. You have to remove both terminals and connect them together. Do not do this while they are hooked to battery! I use a pair of vice grips. Then turn the key on forward. Turn lights on, hold horn and press brake pedal for approx 20 sec. This basically erases all codes stored in the ecm. This also applies to tranny code issues as well. Drive truck immediately to restore all driving conditions the ecm
as to relearn back to factory settings. I would reframe from constantly doing this as it may harm
computer. Doing this is a short cut method to any of us who do not have a program to get into computer to reset it. Good luck!