The plug won’t energize the tool and I can’t get codes. I need a wiring diagram to see where I might be loosing power.

 

I think I'd try another ODB2 reader or test your in another car. just an idea?

 

Well O Riley’s and AutoZone’s scan also didn’t work on my Ranger and I’ve used my current tool on several of the fleet vehicles at the landscaping company I work for so I’m pretty sure that my ranger’s obd2 plug is powerless. The big thing is I lost my key and the two that came with the new lock cylinder won’t upload when I put them in for 3seconds each back to back. So I need to clear the codes and the only way I can figure to do that is with a tool that plugs into the OBD2 plug

 

Check the fuse for your 12 volt power port/ cigar lighter. It's the same fuse for the OBD plug.

And a scanner will not let you program new keys, you need Forscan or some other software that can do that.

 

0 boy, that’s way out of my category. I believe now you are dealing with Pats. I think there’s info out there and you might be able to get info off your EEG like the serial.

 

I’ve got a scan tool that gives me a Bluetooth connection with my phone and from there I’m planning on using the Forscan app to handle the PATS. Unfortunately the fuses are great but both cigarette lighters don’t work, only one, so the I’m trying to back track off of the bad one and fix that problem and hopefully it fixes the other

 

check this link. https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...2-port-174325/

 

thanks, a lot of good info. May just cut to the chase and run new wires to power all points in question. The biggest help was the DLC/DCL renaming and the orange wire. Now it’s up to the doing and seeing how it goes. Thanks again

 

ck here in the search bar there is in for for PATS good luck

 

Well here’s the update. Yeah FORScan has really tied up the market for this one so I’ve got a locksmith making the keys for it now. When I took the central dash off I found two wires that were cut and after repairing them the chime came back and the overhead light came on finally. The second cigar lighter fuse was in the wrong slot so the OBD2 plug works fine now. Curiously I found a Shock detector module that had the wires cut off at the plug and no dangling wires anywhere else so I don’t know if that will pose a problem later. I’ve had a scan tool on it so I know that there’s a few items that I’m going to have to look into and replace. It’s funny because I didn’t even know that the seatbelts had sensors on them. Thanks again for all the helpful advice.

 

This side looks melted. The locksmith suspects that this is what is keeping him from communicating with the PCM. Ironically as far as my last reply apparently not the end of this particular journey. If anyone knows what the specs are for this diodes it would be greatly appreciated.

Not so melted but part number is legible.
the diode setting read 0.559. Don’t know if it’s good or bad but it’s the only thing that is questionable in line with the PCM.

 

where was that plugged in? I'll send pics to a friend.

 

It was in the fuse box in the engine compartment, but I got the ODB2 to work by fixing one of the pin connectors that had been open too much for a pin to make contact. Took the retaining clip out and flexed the metal clip to close enough to make contact with the pin.

 

I sent that pic to a friend. he said you can get them on Amazon or eBay. cant you test it with a meter?

 

I thought I posted that I ohmed it to.559. And found two others from a’95 ranger that ohmed out +\-5. So I’m pretty sure that they weren’t bad and I found one of the pin clips on the plug that was smashed open so I took it apart and reformed it and put it back together and everything worked fine.