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2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #51  
Old 01-12-2010
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Efan, crank pulley and drop in k&n....lifetime average is 18mpg....i keep track of my milage on a cool little app on my phone. Will probably tune next.
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  #52  
Old 01-12-2010
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hey what app is that? i've just been keeping track on the notepad that comes with it
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  #53  
Old 01-13-2010
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Ive got a Palm Pre and use Milage Monitor by Foxtail Software
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  #54  
Old 01-13-2010
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random bumpage again, doesn't have to be for "performance"

anything that helps the life of the truck/ mileage / towing?
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  #55  
Old 01-14-2010
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As far as gears go, a 3.0L is going to perform better with a numerically higher ring and pinion set. The torque curve of the 3.0L is fairly high compared to most "truck" engines. Where the engine makes the most torque is where the engine is most efficient. Basically, what I'm getting at is 4.10:1 gears won't hurt your gas mileage, it might increase it. Obviously a rediculous gear set up like 5.13:1 with a 29" tire isn't going to net you better fuel economy, but a car designed engine in a small pickup with the aerodynamics of a brick will benefit from 4.10:1 gears with street tires.

The only aftermarket intake system that I've ever been impressed with is the Volant systems. They incorperate a smooth plastic induction pipe and an enclosed high flow filter. The K&N, for instance, uses a cone filter behind a not-so-shielding heat shield. You might have the ability to draw more air into your engine, but that air is warm. The warm air is less dense-meaning there is less oxygen per given volume than cooler air-so you really aren't gaining much. Also, stay away from intake kits that have a metal induction tube (as they are good conductors of heat) unless you're just after a show piece. With that said, even the Volant intake isn't going to benefit you until you're full throttle in the upper end of the tach.

Short of forced induction, there's really only a few items that will make the 3.0L stand out. A custom tuned programmer can have some benefits as the increase and timing and altered fuel tables will give you better throttle response and a mild performance boost. If your truck has an automatic transmission, the programmer can change the shifting behavior too. Similar to a shift kit of yesterdays mechanical automatics.

Electric fans won't do anything that you'll notice. If you do, its in your head. You're stimulating your mind... mental masturbation that is. What power you "gained" from your engine when you removed the clutch fan is now being used to drive the alternator harder to produce the extra power being drawn from the electric fan. Underdrive pullies slow your accessories down 20-25%. But, the alternator will just increase the resistance applied to the belt to supply the neccessary amperage to sustain your electrical equipment. The power steering pump has a by-pass valve that can be moved easily with one finger while driving straight. If you spend your day driving in circles, then the underdrive pulley will help. The water pump flows X amount of coolant. Reducing the coolant flow causes a risk of overheating. Or even worse, you might create undo stress on your engine because of hot spots created from less-than-ideal coolant flow. The A/C cycles on and off. When spun slower, it'll just cycle on more often. You're lucky to gain 2-3hp on the top end of the rpm spectrum.

I know this is a long post, so I'll wrap it up by saying that most of the bolt-on mods you can do to your 3.0L are only going to benefit the upper rpm range. If this is your goal, then pick up an exhaust and intake and have it tuned.
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  #56  
Old 01-19-2010
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Jim,

You bring up good points but you forgot to include some information to consider. As far as an efan causing extra drag do to the alt....Efans are off at hwy speeds, mostly on during city driving or idling. At this point it doesnt really matter if theres extra drag since your either driving slow or completely stopped. I went from clutched fan to efan and power didnt really increase, but i did see a jump in MPGs. Its not my brain fapping, its actual math I have very little control over (Miles/gallons)

Water pump...again, at hwy speeds its spinning more than enough. At low speeds, the temp is controlled by the thermostat. If your cooling system is causing hot spots then you have air in the system and thats totally unrelated to the efan or pulley. The t-stat will control the appropriate flow and the efan is more than capable of cooling the fluid, even at idle where a clutch fan might not cut it.

A/C, the system is spinning slower but the cycling is not just controlled/affected by the speed of the compressor. The condensor temp has a lot to do with the cycling....with a clutch fan, at idle, the it might not be enough flow for the radiator and condensor. Having an efan on at idle with the AC on on MAX in 110+ heat, Ive ran into ZERO problems keeping my coolant temps BELOW t-stat temps and ice cold AC. The AC blows cold air faster and colder because of the increase of air flow from the efan.

Again, good arguments but you have to consider the pros/cons at all possible driving conditions. The crank pulley does slow down accesories, but not to the point it causes problems where you can cause additional stress that will kill your engine. I honestly think its foolish to think the alternator will cause equal drag as a clutch fan fully engaged. No doubt it causes drag, but not to the level the clutch does. Ive driven my ranger with a clutch fan and now efans, it doesnt compare when the clutch was engaged to when the efan is on. Comparing my previous Silverados w/and w/o efans, I could tell the power did not fall when the efan was on compared to a locked fan.

The 3.0 is a weak engine, so many mods wont net big hp/trq gains but it might increase efficiency for sure....I have personally seen 2-3mpg increase with efans and pulley....maybe not a lot of power, but its def more efficient.
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  #57  
Old 01-20-2010
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Where can you get a set of under drive pullies from?
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  #58  
Old 01-20-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiefromcali View Post
Jim,

You bring up good points but you forgot to include some information to consider. As far as an efan causing extra drag do to the alt....Efans are off at hwy speeds, mostly on during city driving or idling. At this point it doesnt really matter if theres extra drag since your either driving slow or completely stopped. I went from clutched fan to efan and power didnt really increase, but i did see a jump in MPGs. Its not my brain fapping, its actual math I have very little control over (Miles/gallons)

Water pump...again, at hwy speeds its spinning more than enough. At low speeds, the temp is controlled by the thermostat. If your cooling system is causing hot spots then you have air in the system and thats totally unrelated to the efan or pulley. The t-stat will control the appropriate flow and the efan is more than capable of cooling the fluid, even at idle where a clutch fan might not cut it.

A/C, the system is spinning slower but the cycling is not just controlled/affected by the speed of the compressor. The condensor temp has a lot to do with the cycling....with a clutch fan, at idle, the it might not be enough flow for the radiator and condensor. Having an efan on at idle with the AC on on MAX in 110+ heat, Ive ran into ZERO problems keeping my coolant temps BELOW t-stat temps and ice cold AC. The AC blows cold air faster and colder because of the increase of air flow from the efan.

Again, good arguments but you have to consider the pros/cons at all possible driving conditions. The crank pulley does slow down accesories, but not to the point it causes problems where you can cause additional stress that will kill your engine. I honestly think its foolish to think the alternator will cause equal drag as a clutch fan fully engaged. No doubt it causes drag, but not to the level the clutch does. Ive driven my ranger with a clutch fan and now efans, it doesnt compare when the clutch was engaged to when the efan is on. Comparing my previous Silverados w/and w/o efans, I could tell the power did not fall when the efan was on compared to a locked fan.

The 3.0 is a weak engine, so many mods wont net big hp/trq gains but it might increase efficiency for sure....I have personally seen 2-3mpg increase with efans and pulley....maybe not a lot of power, but its def more efficient.

By using an electric fan, your vehicle needs to convert mechanical energy to electrical energy. Then it must convert the electrical energy back to mechanical energy. A clutch uses just the mechanical energy. Whenever an energy is converted to another form, it is never 100% efficient. If both the electric fan and the mechanical fan moved the same exact amount of air, the mechanical fan will use less power. These are laws of physics. The electric fan will be off at highway speeds, this is true. But the clutch fan uses a clutch that also disengages at highway speeds. Most electric fans do not flow as much air as mechanical fans. Some electric fan manufacturers recommend that you stay stock if you are towing/hauling heavy loads.

Sometimes, when people modify their vehicle and look for an increase in miles per gallon of fuel used, they tend to drive a little easier. Thus, resulting in better fuel economy. Saying that, an electric fan almost ALWAYS has less rotating mass than a clutch fan. You can also cool the engine down between runs provided you have an electric water pump, too.

As for pullies, its really the consumers choice. Slowing the water pump down lets coolant sit in the engine longer. Will this cause one area of the engine to be significantly hotter than another? I don't know. I do not have proof that it does or doesn't. But I trust in Ford that they chose the size of the waterpump pulley so that it flows enough during engine idle that this will not happen.

If parasitic loss is a concern, I would first suggest full synthetic fluids throughout the vehicle. Especially if the vehicle is a 2001-newer 4wd ranger with a live front axle. Change out the front and rear differential fluid, transfercase fluid, transmission fluid, and engine oil with full synthetics. A thinner hard tire will reduce parasitic loss, too. But who wants their truck to look like its sitting on bicycle wheels!?
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  #59  
Old 01-20-2010
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In my case, I drive the same speed, 80-85, pretty consistent conditions and have been averaging 2-3mpg more than before I did mods. Blaming gains on driving style is an easy cop out if youre not a believer of these mods....looks like youre one of them.
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  #60  
Old 01-20-2010
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byron please help support wayne.

Underdog Performance

or underdog-performance.com both go to the same website.
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  #61  
Old 01-22-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiefromcali View Post
In my case, I drive the same speed, 80-85, pretty consistent conditions and have been averaging 2-3mpg more than before I did mods. Blaming gains on driving style is an easy cop out if youre not a believer of these mods....looks like youre one of them.
Wow, 2-3mpg increase would really help out sales in for Ford's Ranger pickup. Its ashame those engineers at Ford aren't "believers".

Most guys claim to get around 20-21mpg with their 3.0L ranger. My '93 2wd had a 3.0L before the V8 swap, so I can confirm an average of 20-21mpg. An increase of 2 or 3 miles per gallon is roughly a 10-15% decrease in fuel consumption. Thats a pretty big deal.

Now, here's why I'm not a "believer". I've tried the electric fan. Guys like you preached about it (and the underdrive pulley). No way would I pay full price, but I found a flex-a-lite fan with a proform shroud made specifically for the 2.3L-3.0L radiators on ebay for dirt cheap. Same with the underdrive crank pulley. I installed these on the 3.0L and to my disappointment, I saw no validable increase in fuel mileage nor "seat of the pants" acceleration. The truck was a lot quieter though. That turned my ear to a small exhaust leak that took 6 months to finally get rid of. Anyways, this electric fan came with a probe that was inserted into the radiator fins close to the "inlet" or hot side of the radiator. During idle, I could watch my water temp gauge move almost a 1/4 inch back and forth. So, I put it up on ebay and installed the mechanical fan back on. Took it for a drive to see if I lost any power... and it felt identical. Just louder again. Why didn't I feel a difference in acceleration? Its physics! No such thing as free energy. If it was more efficient to convert mechanical energy to electrical energy and then convert electricity BACK to mechanical energy, why wouldn't we just attach an electric motor to all 4 wheels and use our engines to operate a generator. Clearly that would draw less power on the engine than directly connecting it to the axle.

There are a lot more "worth while" mods to do than an electric fan and underdrive pulley in my opinion. Claiming an electric fan could increase your fuel mileage by 10-15% is most likely due to different driving habits, false information, or what some say is a "placebo effect" meaning you bought the product with the belief that it will do something, so when you install it you "believe" its working.
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  #62  
Old 01-22-2010
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I dont claim 20-21mpg...Im getting 18-19...sometimes 20 if I go easy on it. Ever since doing these 2 mods, I have never gotten below 17 mpg, which was very common when I got the truck. Again, you assume the fan is on all the time, its not. Attaching electric motors to a vehicle is a COMPLETELY different scenario...an efan isnt moving 4000#, its moving a simple blade, which at hwy speeds is pretty much turning by itself. Besides that, the fan does not run off the alternator, it runs off the battery. All the alternator is doing is charging the battery up again...not directly running the fan. I guess people with sound systems are getting worse mpgs since their alternator is having to convert mechanical energy into electrical huh? Or why is it that a lot of light duty trucks are being equipped with efans if they arent alternator or mpg friendly? My 2000 Silverado had a mechanical fan, my 05 Silverado had an efan...gm must have found a benefit to going to an efan, and its sure as hell aint cost cutting. Im not claiming an efan will net you a 10-15% gain, the combination of an efan and pulley did in MY case..cant guarantee it will for anyone else. Im just presenting my case, like the majority of members on here, in which I did notice a gain in mpg, not so much SOP power.

Again, blaming it on driving habits is the easy way out if it didnt work for you...maybe the fan didnt work for you because your driving habits changed? Thats possible too. Good day sir
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  #63  
Old 01-22-2010
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well said eddie, in why did you put the thermo on the hot side? isn't it the cold side of the coolant that you care about? if you are doing hiway speed, the water going into the hot side is going to be hot, regardless of how much air is passing through it... you want the thermo on the cold side so that if the water returning to the engine is too hot, the fan turns on... this also could have been a reason that you didn't see the gains that everyone else said you should... this alone is NOT going to make you feel a difference, but you should see a small difference in your MPG... and yes there is a difference in power, you talk about hearing the engine... well that is called SOUND energy, and you are converting mechanical to sound energy with the mechanical fan... no sound energy given off of the e-fan (or very little) in addition to this, i used to drag race an 81 malibu with a mechanical fan, non clutched, we saw an increase of approx .10-.20 seconds in the quarter when it was removed this is on a car that ran low 12's, dialed back, if ran flat out, it was expected to be able to do 10's
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  #64  
Old 01-24-2010
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You're getting 19mpg now, which means you were getting 16-17 before. Thats a 10-20% increase in mileage.

When the electric fan draws amperage from the battery, that battery needs to be charged again. The ALTERNATOR charges the battery. Do you really think this is "free" power? The harder an alternator has to work to charge the battery (fighting it from being drained by lights, motors, ignition, ecu...) the more resistance it places on the belt. The only time I could see an electric fan freeing up power is if the clutch in the clutch fan was locked up. Then it would spin at the rpm of the engine, not allowing it to slip. So, an electric fan won't turn on at highway speeds, but the clutch in a clutch fan allows the fan to slip at highway speeds and therefore isn't being powered by the engine. And yes, if someone were to drive around with their sound system drawing 1000 watts CONSTANTLY, they would be drawing about 1.3hp givin the whole charging system is 100% efficient (which is NEVER the case).


Oh, and you should be reading your temperature from the hot side. This is water temperature. You're thermostat does not open when the cool water flowing into the engine is to warm, it opens when the water inside the water jackets is too hot, thus allowing the coolant to flow to the radiator.
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  #65  
Old 01-24-2010
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i'm not talking about the theromstat, i'm talking about the tempature probe for the electric fan... the theromostat is inside the engine and cannot be moved... there is only one place that it can go in... the thermostatic clutched fan disengeges when the air coming through the radiator is hot enough, which means the radiatior is not cooling enough on it's own.

and yes, at highway speed, the clutched fan is still drawing power, because it still uses power to spin up to say... 1000 rpm where it disengages, it just won't spin faster than that, it's robbing the same amount of power as it would be if the motor was spinning at 1000 rpm if it takes 5hp to spin that fan, and you are making 100 at 1000, you are only getting 95 you can use... if you make 150 at 3000 rpm, you only have 145 you can use (not taking into consideration other accessories and such, driveline loss... but it is still robbing the same number of hp off the raw power coming out of the motor)

where as an electric fan will not turn on at all on the hiway, unless it's REALLY hot! which gets back to my point about the temp probe, if you put it on the hot side, the water going into the radiator, even at hiway speed, has not had a chance to cool down from the radiator, before the sensor picks it up, so this shouldn't change if the fan is on or off
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  #66  
Old 01-26-2010
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good discussion in this thread.

I'll chime in, I added a ram intake with a cone filter, but the difference is I kept the under box for the stock intake, and extended it up to isolate the cone filter from the engine bay, I also removed the intake in the lower area of the box, which increased the air coming into it maybe 300% (the intake size is a little over the diameter of a quarter through that inlet, once changed it is now several inches across and 2 inches tall)
this pulls a lot more cooler air into the cone chamber, I also left a little amount above the air box so the air will actually "flow" through instead of just circulating.
I am using a metal tubing, since I had no other method at the time of creating my own, but it stays pretty cool unless high summer here in FL. all in all Im quite happy with its performance.

next I will most likely go with the efan as a lot of things Ive read are of the "good" variety :D
after that, Im planning headers into dual exhaust with a high flow cat and high flow muffler.
then I will go the route of professionally tuned and maybe a new crank pulley, havent fully decided.

the order above isnt set in stone, Im still trying to decide which will be the most beneficial for my needs.
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  #67  
Old 01-26-2010
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i have no idea what you are talking about, but i highly doubt that it actually functions as a ram air... ram air is nearly impossible to achieve on a truck like ours, without something sticking out of the hood, or a missing headlight...
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  #68  
Old 01-26-2010
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I had a ram-air setup on my 00' Silverado and 03' Sierra...All I did was add that flexible washer/dryer exhaust tubing from my empty fog light hole up to the bottom of the OE air box. IDK if it added any mpg or hp but it worked. I could put a rag on the hole and give it WOT and it would suck it up into the box. I thought about doing that to the ranger but dont want to run a single fog lamp....I didnt care when I had the other trucks because they didnt have fog lamps anyways.

Jim,

I dont know if youre referring to me when you say

Quote:
Oh, and you should be reading your temperature from the hot side. This is water temperature. You're thermostat does not open when the cool water flowing into the engine is to warm, it opens when the water inside the water jackets is too hot, thus allowing the coolant to flow to the radiator
My temp switch from Index is located right after the thermostat housing where the hot water is coming out of the engine. No need to explain how a thermostat works...I get it..thats why the switch is in-line with the radiator hose. Right now its set to turn on at 210 and off at 200 since the stock t-stat is 195 I believe. Ive got it all wired with 80A relays (1 for each speed) and 10ga soldered wire. Efan works great and have had no problems keeping the truck at 195-200 during hot summer days in Socal.

Youre right, I was getting 16-17mpg and now 18-19...dont see whats the big deal in 2mpg gains with 2 mods that are meant to increase efficiency, not horsepower. Im not claiming these mods will wake up the 3.0 and make it a beast, I just really believe it lets it work easier, thus increasing mpg. Again, if big manufacturers like GM and Ford didnt believe in efans, they would stick with the cheaper, more efficient according to you, clutch fans...but THEY ARE NOT. They are being forced to increase mpgs...going with efans and variable pressure power steering pumps (AKA, slowing them down..hint hint...crank pulley) or even going to e-pumps like Citroen, they are acheiving that. Dont prove me wrong, prove them wrong because theyre doing that to their new vehicles.

Sources
Power steering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Quote:
Electric systems have a slight advantage in fuel efficiency because there is no belt-driven hydraulic pump constantly running, whether assistance is required or not, and this is a major reason for their introduction.
I could go on and on, but I wont
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  #69  
Old 01-26-2010
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Originally Posted by eddiefromcali View Post
...They are being forced to increase mpgs...going with efans and variable pressure power steering pumps (AKA, slowing them down..hint hint...crank pulley) or even going to e-pumps like Citroen, they are acheiving that. Dont prove me wrong, prove them wrong because theyre doing that to their new vehicles.

Sources
Power steering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
true, but out power steering pumps are designed for high RPM, and high pressure, almost all ford power steering pumps run on a significantly higher pressure than most other manufactures, which is why fords tend to have the power steering whine... if you lower the pressure in our systems, it won't work the same... but what ford is doing, based on your description, is completely re-designing the system, including the rack, designing it to work on lower pressures...
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Old 01-26-2010
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I slapped a MAC intake on it, but in all honesty, the only way to get that little POS 3.0L to move is to slap an Eaton Supercharger on it. If you want speed and HP from a Ranger, get a 4.0L.

You can put plugs/wires, under drive pulleys, intakes/exhausts, tuners and chips, but the 3.0L just isn't worth all that IMO. Especially a DD.
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  #71  
Old 01-26-2010
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Originally Posted by --weezl-- View Post
true, but out power steering pumps are designed for high RPM, and high pressure, almost all ford power steering pumps run on a significantly higher pressure than most other manufactures, which is why fords tend to have the power steering whine... if you lower the pressure in our systems, it won't work the same... but what ford is doing, based on your description, is completely re-designing the system, including the rack, designing it to work on lower pressures...
No doubt it affects power steering feel at idle, but it does make the little engine a bit more efficient. One more thing Jim isnt considering is the efficiency of the e-fan vs the clutch fan. Blade design can be modified and hopefully they make it more efficient besides having it closer to the radiator itself. Having a more efficient blade will cool the engine faster, thus possibly running for a shorter period of time compared to the less efficient design. LOTS of variables come in to play here....just cant go out and say ALL E-FANS SUCK. Im sure some people could rig a sorry @ss setup that would have the fan running 24/7 because it can cool the water...I could see that causing problems with the charging system and possibly lowering mpgs or not netting any mpg gains.
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  #72  
Old 01-26-2010
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to be honest, this "strain" on the charging system, probably doesn't happen, the alt makes more amps than you'll need, so 1 electric fan that isn't on 100% of the time isn't going to do much of anything.

eitherway, i didn't make this post to fight or dis mpg or hp or anything like that

just seeing what fellow members have done to there 3.0

doesn't always have to be about hp, mpgs or even a better sound make your truck much funner than anything plain and boring.
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