Hey guys!

Dropped new engine in just fine, turning key with fully charged battery, starter just gives me a click.
Got my battery load tested and it looks good.
Voltage Drop Test shows starter getting around 10v. Still not enough juice to turn the engine w sparkplugs in?
VDT across positive wire is giving 1.2ish volts
VDT across negative wire 1.2ish volts.
I know this reading is too high and doesn't exactly add up with my VDT across the starter but working on replacing wires/ ensuring clean connections regardless.
Still haven't pulled the trigger on a new starter since this one worked with the old engine.

Pulling each plug out and hand turning the engine I can confirm spark.
I can also hear the injectors working as I hand turn the engine with key switched to ignition, occasional sound of combustion with puff of smoke out header (very seldom).
I initially thought my ignition timing was 180deg out of phase but when I rotated the distributor I noticed a backfire/ puff out the intake while hand turning engine.
Is it even advisable to hand turn engine with key switched to ignition and a ratchet?

Starting to wonder about fuel timing. Perhaps ECM thinks cylinder 5 is on compression when cylinder 1 actually is? is there a way to reset fuel injector timing?

I appreciate anyone who took the time to read through my series of statements, any input you guys might have is greatly appreciated!
Would be stokedddd to get this guy running again!

Thanks in advance!

 

1994 3.0l?

Do you still have a inner fender starter relay in 1994 3.0l?
My 1994 4.0l does

The 1994 starter will for sure have the smaller tube on top of the starter motor, that's a relay/solenoid, it has a small "S" post along with the larger battery positive cable connection
The "S" post activates the starter motor when it has 12volts

Its fine to hand turn the engine with key on or off

First solve the starter motor issue then you can see if distributor is 180 out

If you want to see now then pull out all the spark plugs except #1
Turn engine clock-wise until you feel resistance from compression building in #1, stop turning when you get to the TDC line
Look at the rotor under the cap, should be pointed at #1 spark plug wire, if its pointed at #5 then its 180deg out

 

yeah 94 3.0L.
looks like I do have the inner fender relay, tried jumping it with key in and battery at 12.4v same click from starter.

I guess the click means the bendix is engaging but if the "S" post isn't receiving 12v starter wont turn?
I think I'm gunna pull my wires out and get some new ones made.

Thanks for the help/ clarification RonD. feeling pretty close to getting this sucker going.

hopefully ill have a more exciting update soon!

 

Thank RonD!!

I guess I had my battery negative attached to my starter's 'M' post . Hooked it up to my chassis and she cranks no problem!

As for timing, I removed all the plugs except 1 and set my distributor accordingly. Certainly sputtering but only while I'm holding the key ON.
I noticed when testing cylinder 1 for compression I began feeling pressure buildup 10-15deg BEFORE the BDC marking on my harmonic balancer, making me question the accuracy of the markings.

Trucks been sitting for almost a year now so maybe the gas in the tank is bad?
I also don't have an exhaust hooked up so only headers therefore no O2 sensors but I figured the truck can run itself without those.

 

Gas lasts 5-6 months in a gas tank, so for sure gas is bad

Put TDC mark on the line then put a screwdriver/stick in spark plug 1 hole, #1 piston should be at the top of course, rotate crank left and right to make sure
If its not correct then woodruff key has sheared off, need to pull harmonic balancer to repair/replace it

 

checked with ur stick method and markings seem accurate.
also pulled the injectors a few days back and can confirm they all work.

been pretty afraid to crank it for more than 10 seconds at a time, not sure how much help from the starter a 'new' engine needs.

I guess i also gotta look at putting new gas in the truck

 

Yes, put a hose down the filler and siphon out as much of the old fuel as possible
And/or pull the fuel filter, need to change it regardless, and "hot wire" fuel pump to run with key on

Hot wire fuel pump
1994 3.0l will have an OBD1 connector in engine bay, usually next to the engine fuse box
Looks like this: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...v_testing2.gif

Slot in the drawing labelled Fuel Pump is the GROUND to activate fuel pump full time with key on
So get a jumper wire and put 1 end of the wire in that slot, put the other end on battery Negative or any good metal ground
With key on fuel pump will run continuously, same as it does when engine is running, until you turn key off or unhook that ground jumper
This only works on OBD1 Fords

Put a pan/bucket down under fuel filter hose from the tank to catch the old fuel, then "hot wire" pump, old fuel in the tank is good for weed killer but not environmentally good

Once the fresh gas is in and engine starts, add some Seafoam or similar fuel system cleaner to fuel in the tank, may need to do this the first fuel tanks full

 

OK
New gas, new filter.
All cylinders are definitely firing but not without help from the starter.

Pretty sure I have my timing right. Distributor set for 10deg bTDC and SPOUT connector disconnected.
As soon as I shift my key from IGN to RUN engine fires a few more times and dies.
Id say maybe fuel delivery but when manually cranking the engine with key set to RUN injectors fire, pulled them out to see.
Also confirmed spark with key set to run by pulling each plug.

Feeling pretty stumped, maybe Im missing something.

I guess its also possible Im starting to flood my engine, given it quite a few tries although I did let it sit overnight. cranked it in clear flood mode for maybe 15 seconds but scared to overwork the starter.

 

Does it start and run using 50/50 test?
i.e. spraying fuel directly into the engine

If not then its a spark or spark timing issue

With key in RUN/ON test if coil's "+" has 12volts, should be a Red/light green wire, you can unplug it to test the wire
On the inner fender starter relay will be the red/light blue wire on the smaller "S" post, disconnect it, this wire activates the starter motor when key is in START
Now with volt meter or test light still hooked to Coils "+" wire turn the key to START, starter won't come on, but you should still see 12volts on Coil wire, if not ignition switch is bad
In the "bad old days" there was a ballast resistor on Coil's "+" terminal, so ignition switch had two separate wires to power the coil, one for RUN and the other for START, in the later 1980's these were changed to combine the two wires, but...............it can fail
So coil is OFF while cranking, but comes back ON when key is released from START, can also fail the other way, Coil is ON while cranking but as soon as key is released Coil is OFF engine dies

Leave SPOUT disconnected when trying to start, SPOUT is only needed when driving

Firing order: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/imag...63/image_2.jpg
Clockwise rotation
Easy to mis-wire firing orders, any one who says they never have is a liar, lol

 

IT LIVES

engine didnt run with quickstart and coil was getting constant 12v. You called it RD, timing.
Played around with it a little and finally go it to run on its own, SPOUT disconnected.
Still some fine tuning to do since when I plug the SPOUT in it idles rougher than without but ill probably throw an exhaust on first for the neighbors sake.

Thanks for all the help RD, ur wisdom is endless and ur attitude altruistic. A Ford Philanthropist if you will.