I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 and I am into car audio pretty heavily. Mainly sound quality. I'm building a very efficient class D amplifier system but I want to know what is the largest OEM Ford alternator I can get for my Ranger? I know it came I believe with the 110 amp alternator as it was the Tremor Edition. Of course this alternator has been replaced and of course I was given the 95 amp alternator. I see of course on eBay that I can get another 110 amp alternator but I was wondering if there is something from the super duty series that maybe even larger?
From my understanding, the cases are the same it's the wiring that's different.
If I could find something in the 120s to 130s that would be great because I know most OEM alternators make most of their amperage at idle.
Thanks in advance and if anyone needs any help with car audio, please let me know! I'm working on a sound bar that will drop into the defroster vent area after removing the vent cover!
Should have pictures for it later today!
Also get most anything at cost and have a very large collection myself that I'm constantly selling from.
Again, thanks!

 

No alternator makes best power at engine idle, you get about 60% of the rating with engine at 750-800rpm, 100% with engine at 1,800rpm
Biggest Factory alternator for Rangers was 130amp, but 3rd party can be found at 200amp or even 250amp

Article here on Ranger Factory alternators: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...r-alternators/

1995 - 2011 Rangers/B-series need about 50amps for stock electrics, assuming power group, all lights on and heater fan on HIGH, so 95amp alternator would be minimum
95amp = 57amp(60%) at idle, so not a lot of headroom for added electrics
130amp = 78amp at idle, which gives you 28amp headroom at idle, assuming all lights on and heater fan on HIGH

You can add a manual throttle control to hold "idle" at say 1,500rpms, when parked and playing the system
2nd Battery, deep cycle type, is also a good option to consider

Car batteries are made with thin plates to quickly discharge a lot of amps, starter motor draws 60-75amps, then to be quickly re-charged, these types of batteries are not good at slow steady drains, in fact it shortens their life

Deep Cycle batteries have thicker plates and are made for slow steady amp draws, i.e. RV batteries, they can be drained quite low without effecting their life, they are not good at quick high amp discharges, like for starter motors, this use would shorten their life

 

Yeah I kind of want to change all my original questioning to like doesn't matter anymore LOL.
I just got a call back from Motor City Remanufacturing, MCR, which I'm finding out is a very reputable company. All these alternators are direct replacement and of course need the "big 3 wire upgrade" and have a lifetime warranty with no core. Starts out at 130 amps for $140 and tops out at 240 amps for $260. Kind of a no-brainer when the 95 amp model at Advanced is like $110 and it is guaranteed to pretty much fail every two years no matter what the miles are LOL.
Car audio amplifiers have became so efficient and so has the lighting since everything has gone to LED. I know some will say get the 240 amp because it's not that much more than the 200 amp model, but there's no sense in paying for it if you don't need it. I will be running an Optima red top which have became so much better over the last couple of years and a 40ah LiFePo4 secondary battery (isolated with the truck off) with a 100 amp power supply for plugging in at shows.
So yeah instead of rummaging around junk yards trying to find a used cheap upgrade, it's worth $100 more just to get something brand new from a trusted company.