Oh i bet you cant figure this one out Gentlemen:

OD off light has been blinking on this truck for over 10 years (intermittently) through a twice rebuilt transmission, replaced cats and rebuilt entire exhaust system, replaced IAC,EGR,DPFE,TPS,PCM(new snd programmed before shipped-included new keys),TB, MASS AIR(And filter of course and checked breather hose and intake hose for cracks they are known to have), PCV,entire vacuum line system and confirmed currently has no leaks, radiator, plugs and wires, speed sensors on tranny and rear diff and cleaned abs sensors on wheels which shut that light off), ac compressor, fuel pump and filter, oil pressure sensor, fuel injector plugs(not injectors themselves), shifter ****(currently wont push all the way to gear 1 down at the end so must be installed incorrectly-also a good half of the dash lights dont work and seems every other time i start the truck it actually goes through all the motions and plays all the warning beeps/ notices if the driver isnt buckled- plays both beeps one for restraint system and the mystery beep of course) other times it doesnt beep at all even for seat belt.
Have pulled, cleaned, and reinstalled the starter, valve covers, evap system, that huge square plug under the drivers seat, rear differential, have found and fixed several electrical shorts on most systems but have no replaced cluster. Have the harness for transmission i am about to swap out.

Like i said the auto transmission has been rebuilt recently but i have no way of finding out what all he actually did. He gave me the "your a girl and therefore know nothing and i will therefore answer your questions as such)" when i asked him at pickup and his shop is now closed i assume due to covid. There is a special kit for this truck for the valve body gasket and spacer plate. I find it hard to believe that a guy who exclusively does transmissions for the last 40 years would not know/look into something like this but the job was done before i bought the truck off my boss who was ready to scrap it (min $7,000 dumped into it from them but i put most of the hours in and a couple Gs of my own so i couldnt let that happen)

No mattee what we do to this #@!damn thing (aside from the valvebody gasket as of yet) that OD OFF light starts blinking at around 40mph and she starts runnin like crap. Idles high unless i unplug the iac, revs as im coming to a stop, have to really lay on the brakes to stop, and she will keep herself at 40 forEVER without touching the pedal. Oh and idle goes higher when you put into park too. I would list the codes it throws but they basically change every time you plug it in.

I can NOT sell this thing for $300 to the scrappers. i have poured blood sweat tears and so much time and and money into this truck. Its my broken baby. I put a custom headache rack that i built on it and managed to get a toolbox in her narrow *** bed. All that work listed up there was done by me with some help from my husband and that tranny shop. Its either i figure it out or it takes and long drive on a short mountain road. I challenge you ford geniuses to give me an answer. Im convinced this may he the hardest case to ever hit this website and i would know cause i have spent hours and hours pouring over this forum. Please help me.

-The Little Red Mystery Ranger

 

Welcome to the forum

We don't need to figure it out, you do, lol

Flashing OD off light means computer has detected a shifting issue in automatic transmission, this will usually set a Transmission code, P0700-P0804
1996 and up Ranger used OBD2 protocol, required by Law in US and Canada in ALL 1996 and up vehicles, not a Ford thing, ALL vehicles had to have it

You need to hook up an OBD2 reader that can read transmission codes, not all can
Most auto parts stores will read codes for you for free, WRITE THEM DOWN

Partial Ford code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...trouble_codes/

There are ALOT of codes, each means something a little different, so need EXACT CODE NUMBER, "I think it was............." is useless, actually worse than useless since you could be looking at wrong thing, lol

Thats the first thing you need to do

Second, does the CEL(check engine light) work?
It should come on with key on, then go off after engine starts
If it comes back on once engine is running then there are also Engine Codes, you need to get those, write them down

If CEL bulb is burned out then codes would still be there

High idle on warmed up engine is most likely a vacuum leak, or stuck/wrong IAC Valve
You can only use Motorcraft or Hitachi IAC Valves on these Rangers, others won't work reliably

But get the codes first, the rest will fall into place

And just a heads up
"new" no longer means "it works"
New means NEVER EVER TESTED
So grain of salt on "new" parts
If you replace 4 parts chances are one of them was bad out of the box, 25% failure rate is not unusual now-a-days
"You test it, we will replace it if it doesn't work" called a warranty, lol, they just saved a bunch of money on labor because they never have to test parts before shipping them out

 

Ok i never said anyone needed to figure it out dude, i said i challenge all you ford geniuses. But clearly you didnt read my post because i also said the truck does not have a vacuum leak. that is confirmed, i never said it idles high when warmed up, it does it constantly from the moment i start the engine.
I am fully aware that new doesnt mean functional and i never said parts were all new i said they have been replaced. and have mitigated the part issue and currently have a functional IAC installed. Dont question every item please, if i say it was replaced i mean it was replaced and is functional otherwise i would habe just left it out of the post altogether

i am also fully aware of what a flashing o.d. light means. And no the CEL light does not work never has.
and of course i am aware of all the benefits of an obdll scanner which is why we bought one capable of communicating with the transmission and also took the truck to several mechanics over the 10 YEARS we have been trying to figure this out. And have not recieved a concise solution.

Do you think i could possibly have spent countless hours reading this forum and not even have those basics figured out?

Please do not respond to this thread if you are going to try and make me look like an idiot who cant provide the basic info. Clearly that is not a problem for me. Please also do not participate if you do not actually read what i wrote. I dont need to be lectured or informed of most of these things.I am willing to answer questions all day about symptoms etc but im not going to dive back into codes cause like i said they change almost every single time we plug in the scanner. And even when we have had it down to nothing other than the "incomplete drive cycle" code it still shuts off the overdrive at approx 40 mph, high idles from right when you start it even higher the first time you tap the gas pedal and revs when you come to a stop and will keep itself at 40mph for a stangely long time-replaced brake booster and IT DOES NOT HAVE AN AIR LEAK anywhere- and revs when you finally put it in park at the end of trip.

Thank you for your input

 

If you continue to be combative when you receive a response, one or both of the following things will happen.

1. Nobody is going to want to help you.
2. Depending on the severity of your combativeness, I may remove you from this forum.

I strongly suggest you find another place to vent your frustrations with your vehicle because I will not have you speaking to our members in this manner.

 

None of my responses are ever meant to be offensive or insulting, I apologize to you if you took it that way

All gasoline engines have vacuum leaks, most are just not bad enough to effect operation, lol

If you have an OBD2 reader then have a look at the TPS feedback key on engine off(or idling), expected is 16%-19%, throttle closed all the way

If idle is high after warm up and TPS is under 20% then Computer is most likely whats telling the IAC Valve to set the high idle, if idle drops when you unplug the IAC valve with engine idling then that would confirm Computer issue, not a stuck IAC Valve or bigger vacuum leak
But if that's the case then Computer should set "idle speed control" code
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction<<<general IAC code, should also be set with IAC wires unplugged
P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected<<<set after you unplug IAC Valve
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected<<<set for current condition
or
P1504 Idle Air Control Circuit
P1506 Idle Air Control Overspeed Error
P1507 Idle Air Control Underspeed Error
P1508 Idle Air Control Circuit Open
P1509 Idle Air Control Circuit Shorted


If you don't get one or more of these codes then try a sanity test for computer
Unplug MAF sensor
Turn key on
Start engine if it will start
Turn off key
Turn on key
Connect OBD2 reader, should see one of these code
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

You can also try other sensors, one at a time, see if computer sets correct codes when they are unplugged
If computer is not setting any codes then its "sanity" is in question, its software/firmware has issues

Odd the CEL bulb was burned out in such a short time, if it hasn't worked for 10 years, then that means it burned out in 2012, my 1994 CEL bulb is still working fine, 28 years
So that could also be a sign of computer issue, either its not grounding the CEL with key on, or bulb was on full time for 11 years(2001-2012) and burned out

 

RonD thank you very much i will get to work on testing the sanity of the computer against my sensors. And when you say computer are you referring to the pcm? Because that part is new in the truest sense and was programmed to my VIN before it was sent out and then installed by some of the best mechanics i have come across in Denver(hands down WJB on 48th and washington in denver are the best). But i havent taken the truck to dealership to check for updates to firmware mostly because i have heard nothing but terrible reports about the local crew/ havent had the money to potentially pay for it since i assume i am well beyond parameters of any warranties/recalls. And i guess its finally time to open up the dash and find the burned bulbs or shorts back there. Do you think a short back there could be causing the truck to act differently with every other start? As far as warning bells etc going off some starts but not others? And if so would a short back there have enough influence on the computer to cause my other issues?
And thank you for your time and attention to my thread, it is desperately needed and much appreciated i assure you. Already copied your response to my clipboard in case i lose the thread.




Moderator,
i dont think i was being combative. I felt it necessary to defend myself since whether offense was meant or not i was in fact offended and felt i was misrepresented by the comments in the first response to my thread. I find it interesting that in the probably couple hundred threads i have read over the years that my comments are worthy of your discipline instead of many others i have read in the past. Guess its just one of those things....if you feel the need to delete my thread then so be it but i will defend myself whenever i feel it is necessary as i believe i have a right to do so and since i used no profanity and simply restated the facts of my case and asked not to be made to look ignorant of the basics of "ranger diagnostics" i dont think my comments are worthy of removal especially in comparison to many other conversations i have read on here that go well beyond "combative".

 

Yes, computer is PCM

And no key on CEL with new PCM?

Yes, I would be tempted to change the cluster
1996 thru 2003 Ranger/B-series are direct plug and play, black or white face, with or without Tach your choice(all Rangers are wired for Tachometers), manual or automatic, just need to swap the plate with P R N D 2 1 if automatic
I wouldn't bother with odometer matching until its been tested in vehicle

Yours is a "one-off" issue

 

I cannot help what was not enforced by previous moderation staff, but I can and will make sure that everybody currently using this site is treated in a respectful manner. I am not here to argue with anybody, but have seen responses like yours escalate into infractions, and feel a warning is necessary in this situation. I am not taking any disciplinary action at this current time.