87 ford ranger 2.9 no crank no start fuel pump comes on no spark with key in on with remote start switch key doesn't do anything as far as cranking goes when you attempt to start with the key a check oil Iight comes on ..oil is as it always stumped

 

Do the dash lights come on and gauges?

Reads like ignition switch is not powering up the fuses needed to start engine
On the inner fender is the Starter Relay
It has two larger posts and one smaller post
One of the larger posts will have Battery Positive cable and several other wires with it, this is the 12volt distribution for THE WHOLE vehicle
Make sure these all have a good clean connection
And BOTH battery terminals and cables are clean

The other larger post will have ONE WIRE ONLY, goes to starter motor

The small post will have a red/blue wire, this activates the relay, comes from ignition switch, test if this wire has 12v with key turned to START

Test coil for 12v with key on, red/green wire, comes from ignition switch

 

I can hook a remote starter to the solenoid switch and I can get it to turn over ...no start.
The brown relay has one continuous power on it ,if I turn the key on it has two two points of power. Fuel pump relay has power to it the coil has power to it if I turn the key to the start position the only thing I get is check engine oil after the dash lights go out.
The clutch starter interrupter has been jumped
Power to both sides of the coil but when I turn the engine over they stay solid
Am I missing something on the transmission and neutral safety switch it's a 5-speed straight shift the clutch pedals already been jumped

 

Only thing in common is the red/blue wire that activates Starter Relay AND activates TFI spark system with Key turned to START

Manual trans
Pull down the clutch switch connector and test
There will be two red/blue wires on the connector, next to each other, you say they are jumped together, which is fine, but test that there is 12v there with key turned to START
If not then ignition switch is the issue

You can also jump 12v to this red/blue wire, make sure trans is in neutral and tire blocked
Engine should crank if the wire is OK from inside cab to starter relay
And engine should start if key is ON
If jumping 12v to red/blue wire doesn't crank engine over then wire/connection is bad between cab and starter relay

 

Put a jumper wire from the clutch starter interrupter to solenoid now it cranks with the key... still will not start, fuel pump comes on but that's it no fire have both wires on coil hot... but no fluctuation on the current

 

Spray fuel into the intake

It should start if Spark is working/timed and then stall if Injectors are not working

If it doesn't start then spark is not working or too far out of time

 

The wire from the clutch starter interrupter to the solenoid..... Does that wire have anything to do with the spark actuator between the clutch starter interrupter and the solenoid or does the hotwire to the distributor come off of one of the other relays...... In a roundabout way

 

The red/blue wire from clutch switch goes to starter relay AND TFI Module, "start" wire

Diagram below is a bit hard to read but the red/blue wire gets 12v with key turned to START(ignition switch)
That 12v goes thru the clutch switch and then splits to 2 red/blue wires, one to starter relay and one to TFI module

Engine should still start with #4 TFI wire not having 12v, see diagram: http://www.useasydocs.com/details/tfi.gif
Because 1983-1992 manual trans Ranger's can be "bump started"/push started, which wouldn't be possible if TFI needed 12v on #4 to start spark
BUT...........it would be needed if the 12v to coil/TFI is cut when key is turned to START, read below


The red/green(and brown/pink) wire from ignition switch have 12v in ON(run) AND START respectively, these wires power the TFI and Coil when key is on, that should be all you need for spark to start once engine is spinning

But..................the brown/pink wire is a hold over from older spark systems
Older coils would burn out if they were run full time on 14volts(alternator voltage)
So Resistor Block or Resistor wire was used on the red/green wire at the coil, to lower voltage down to 8v or 9v, so coils lasted longer

Problem is when you activate the starter motor, 12v battery voltage drops down to 9v or 10v, if that was sent to coil via Resistor then its only 4v and not a hot enough spark to start cold or even warm engine
Brown/pink wire was added to coil directly, when key was turned to START it bypassed Resistor and gave coil the 9/10v cranking voltage for hotter spark

In the very older days, lol, there were 4 Post starter relays, there was a smaller "I" post next to the smaller "S" post
"I" posts has only has Battery Volts when relay is activated, "I" post was hooked to coil via a diode

On your 1987, IF..............the brown/pink wire was disconnected, then coil would not have voltage with key turned to START
You can test for this by testing coil voltage with key turned to START


FYI, newer coils and coil packs don't have issues running with 14volts so no resistors are needed
But doesn't help in older vehicles because its not a coil issue its wiring thats still there for the older coil issue, lol

 

RonD I want to thank you for the information and time .....
it should be enough for me to get this old truck running again