2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech General discussion of 2.9L and 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Oil in coolant 3.0

  #26  
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Block sealer is meant for cylinder leaks, they are basically liquid glass, when they come into contact with the 1,000+ deg heat in a cylinder they melt and harden sealing the coolant leak in the cylinder.

Coolant leak products air activated by air, when they leak out they swell up blocking the leak point

Not sure either would help, but block sealer would be the one to try
 
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Block sealer is meant for cylinder leaks, they are basically liquid glass, when they come into contact with the 1,000+ deg heat in a cylinder they melt and harden sealing the coolant leak in the cylinder.

Coolant leak products air activated by air, when they leak out they swell up blocking the leak point

Not sure either would help, but block sealer would be the one to try
Every 40 miles the oil is pushing in 3oz into cooling system..... i checked e bay for engines but they are all high miles.....i think the best way to do this is pull the heads then pull the short block.... and try to find used short block... blue devil results to follow....
 
  #28  
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You should be able to find a block for that pretty easily at a low cost, it was used in a number of different vehicles. It was made for many years and there should thousands of blocks around.
Taurus and Sable may even be less money and will work.
 
  #29  
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Originally Posted by uksparky View Post
Your near San Diego that's about 5 hrs from where I am Santa Ynez valley.. you heard about Solvang
..going to stick with the 3.0
last resort is try Bluedevil block sealer, if that don't work I will throw the towel in lol
I am not familiar with the area, I have been out here fro approximately five years but stick close to Temecula.
OK on the sealer, good luck.

Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
You should be able to find a block for that pretty easily at a low cost, it was used in a number of different vehicles. It was made for many years and there should thousands of blocks around.
Taurus and Sable may even be less money and will work.
Are any of these 3.0's, you guys are talking aobut, consisted heavy duty ?

Are any consisted high output ?

If I were to replace my 3.0L with another 3.0L, just to keep in within the Cali restrictions, I would want a high performance version, if there is one ?

Is the SHO v-6 a 3.0 or a 4.0L ?

Sorry for the questions guys, I will move my question to the Engine Forum but for now ?
 
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
I am not familiar with the area, I have been out here fro approximately five years but stick close to Temecula.
OK on the sealer, good luck.



Are any of these 3.0's, you guys are talking aobut, consisted heavy duty ?

Are any consisted high output ?

If I were to replace my 3.0L with another 3.0L, just to keep in within the Cali restrictions, I would want a high performance version, if there is one ?

Is the SHO v-6 a 3.0 or a 4.0L ?

Sorry for the questions guys, I will move my question to the Engine Forum but for now ?
I've never heard of any high performance versions or heavy duty.
Have a look at this.
You don't want to go too old, there were a number of improvements in the later designs.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec..._0-build.shtml
 
  #31  
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Thanks for that info Jeff.... i found this block on e bay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-FORD-R...L/302531927654

I picked up a bottle of blue devil block sealer today .. putting in radiator Saturday morning......... i will post results...
 
  #32  
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Sealant did not work .. i think rock auto has plenty of brand names parts ....any advice brand name to get
complete engine gasket set, i will pull the heads first, no block yet but....brand names for rod/main bearings/piston rings... timing chain set
have i missed anything out...
 

Last edited by uksparky; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:31 AM.
  #33  
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3.0l Vulcan had different blocks over the years so there were improvements but not for performance just engineering

And just one block every year, Truck 3.0l had better torque Cam, Cars had better Horsepower cam

Heads were the same but in 1999 the blocks got recessed head bolt holes so used Longer head bolts, so make sure of the year of the block and get the correct length head bolts for that block

The SHO engines were DOHC(double over head cams), no relation to the 3.0l OHV Vulcan engine
 

Last edited by RonD; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:16 PM.
  #34  
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I have the heads off i know it was burning oil .. more on #


5... might have worn exhaust seats.... chambers dont look good, cleaned off gaskets, block ready to come out... dont see any cracks on block..
 
  #35  
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Getting a rebuilt short block from Texas
 
  #36  
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Good

Crack would most likely not be obvious, needs to be between a water jacket and oil pressure passage, so internal
I wouldn't think a cylinder wall, that would usually put coolant in the oil not oil in the coolant
It would almost have to be a manufacturing defect, that eventually cracked from vibration and heating up and cooling down, the metal expands and contracts
 
  #37  
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I did notice on this vulcan engine the block it seems very thin looking down inside the water jacket... and a lot of rust.... fifteen years
 
  #38  
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Machine shop told me the heads are cracked, ...so new short block coming and looking for bare or rebuilt heads... BlueDevil stands behind there product.... getting my money back
 
  #39  
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Talked with machine shop and was told don't buy rebuilt heads they are junk like the ones you have....
. And they are right the heads I have had 30k only, so going for new heads....... cost of hot tank, dismantle and magnaflux..... $158.50
 
  #40  
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New heads


 
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