Block sealer is meant for cylinder leaks, they are basically liquid glass, when they come into contact with the 1,000+ deg heat in a cylinder they melt and harden sealing the coolant leak in the cylinder.

Coolant leak products air activated by air, when they leak out they swell up blocking the leak point

Not sure either would help, but block sealer would be the one to try

 

Every 40 miles the oil is pushing in 3oz into cooling system..... i checked e bay for engines but they are all high miles.....i think the best way to do this is pull the heads then pull the short block.... and try to find used short block... blue devil results to follow....

 

You should be able to find a block for that pretty easily at a low cost, it was used in a number of different vehicles. It was made for many years and there should thousands of blocks around.
Taurus and Sable may even be less money and will work.

 

I am not familiar with the area, I have been out here fro approximately five years but stick close to Temecula.
OK on the sealer, good luck.

Are any of these 3.0's, you guys are talking aobut, consisted heavy duty ?

Are any consisted high output ?

If I were to replace my 3.0L with another 3.0L, just to keep in within the Cali restrictions, I would want a high performance version, if there is one ?

Is the SHO v-6 a 3.0 or a 4.0L ?

Sorry for the questions guys, I will move my question to the Engine Forum but for now ?

 

I've never heard of any high performance versions or heavy duty.
Have a look at this.
You don't want to go too old, there were a number of improvements in the later designs.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec..._0-build.shtml

 

Thanks for that info Jeff.... i found this block on e bay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-FORD-R...L/302531927654

I picked up a bottle of blue devil block sealer today .. putting in radiator Saturday morning......... i will post results...

 

Sealant did not work .. i think rock auto has plenty of brand names parts ....any advice brand name to get
complete engine gasket set, i will pull the heads first, no block yet but....brand names for rod/main bearings/piston rings... timing chain set
have i missed anything out...

 

3.0l Vulcan had different blocks over the years so there were improvements but not for performance just engineering

And just one block every year, Truck 3.0l had better torque Cam, Cars had better Horsepower cam

Heads were the same but in 1999 the blocks got recessed head bolt holes so used Longer head bolts, so make sure of the year of the block and get the correct length head bolts for that block

The SHO engines were DOHC(double over head cams), no relation to the 3.0l OHV Vulcan engine

 

I have the heads off i know it was burning oil .. more on #


5... might have worn exhaust seats.... chambers dont look good, cleaned off gaskets, block ready to come out... dont see any cracks on block..

 

Getting a rebuilt short block from Texas

 

Good

Crack would most likely not be obvious, needs to be between a water jacket and oil pressure passage, so internal
I wouldn't think a cylinder wall, that would usually put coolant in the oil not oil in the coolant
It would almost have to be a manufacturing defect, that eventually cracked from vibration and heating up and cooling down, the metal expands and contracts

 

I did notice on this vulcan engine the block it seems very thin looking down inside the water jacket... and a lot of rust.... fifteen years

 

Machine shop told me the heads are cracked, ...so new short block coming and looking for bare or rebuilt heads... BlueDevil stands behind there product.... getting my money back

 

Talked with machine shop and was told don't buy rebuilt heads they are junk like the ones you have....
. And they are right the heads I have had 30k only, so going for new heads....... cost of hot tank, dismantle and magnaflux..... $158.50

 

New heads

 

Short block on its way should have it Monday afternoon 8th

 

Short block all ready to be fitted

 

You may want to remove the synchroniser and oil sender before fitting the engine, they may get in the way, plus the oil sender is pretty vulnerable of running into the firewall when lowing the engine into place.

 

No problem Jeff went in ok

 

The hard parts over, when I did mine, I found it quite an effort to get the block to line up to the transmission.
I even made some alignment studs to get it started and it would not just slip together, I had to start the bell housing bolts and cinch it up that way.

 

getting the dowels lined up with the trans was not fun plus getting under with jack stands, leaving it overnight as the intake manifold will need re tightening.. will get back to it Thursday afternoon..

 

Nice job, it should run well with a new engine! Although I gotta say that picture with the chain laying in the cylinder made me cringe.....

 

The bore isn't that fragile, it's just laying there, it's not hurting anything.

And Glenn, I don't know how green you are when it comes to engine assembly, but I'll mention this anyway.
Be sure that #1 is on compression and not exhaust so the tooth on the synchronizer is lined up properly.
The cheap plastic set to line it up works well enough.
OCT tools makes a really nice steal one, but it's a little pricey for a one time use.

 

Worked on British sports cars all my life (Jaguar) self employed 23 years, from the UK living in Cali 36 years, retired now. The ranger forum has helped me a lot ....Before i pulled the block i made sure it was firing on # 1 then took picture of the sync tooth spot .. put it back the same way picture on wood palate.. .. the alignment tool would be nice to have ..

 

Oh yeah, you'll be OK !
A Jag engine is quite complex with it's two timing chains and duel cams compared to the Vulcan engine.

Don't you just love British engineering, the distributor turning counter clock wise and number one cylinder at the back of the engine.

And not forget positive ground, although, you're probably used to that.