1) It started no doing "auto engine stop", NEVER did it. So I took a look..... hey, it says "vehicle charging"...all the time... even after a 200 mile non-stop trip. Battery measured 11.5V on a 12V battery, right after running it for several minutes, which should have charged it, never mind that it should not be that low.

2) The tranny shifts with a HUGE "kick", kinda like the brakes were stepped on hard for a quarter second. That's when cold, as -in sub 20F cold. It also will simply not shift, acting as if the engine has no power,, but actually it is between gears. After maybe 4 or 5 blocks of driving, it is OK, bit idling takes a long time if ever, to warm it up.

Dealer has it now for warranty, we'll see.

 

There was another thread or 2 somewhere here; some others having troubles with the "clunk" when shifting.
The dealer did a change to the computer that solved the problem, but it didn't last.
We'll see what happens, as you say.

 

That battery thing is a big deal

 

I've never noticed the battery situation with my 19 Ranger, but I did notice that "kick" or jerk if you will going into gear.

I found for me personally it only happens when backing up and then going into drive. But the problem was me, not the truck. I was still rolling backwards slightly when I put it into drive rather then coming to a stop then changing.

I know none of this really contributes to your issues, but Im curious if you looked into an engine block heater if you live up North with those crazy temps. Im originally from Montana, and its a must on any vehicle (without a heated garage). Just an idea if she has a hard time wanting to cooperate with you in those sub temps.

Cheers though, and hope you find a solution!

 

Bad battery sensor, which I am told is part of the charge system, and bad battery. They put in a new battery, and said I can drive it until the sensor comes in. The sensor was bad for at least a month, including two long trips, so probably I can, although I think it will kill the new battery also.

They are mechanics, and so they think the bad battery killed the sensor, I think the reverse. I think it defaulted to thinking the battery was warm, and undercharged it in cold weather.

 

Ford has used a few "battery sensors", temp sensors and current sensors, sometimes both

I can't see how a bad battery would effect a temp or current sensor, but a bad sensor certainly could cause a bad battery, happened all the time when voltage regulators failed, battery was under charged or over charged, and was ruined

I did read that unplugging a bad battery sensor was the correct thing to do, this doesn't effect standard charging system, but does prevent under or over charging replacement battery
But could disable auto stop/start

Since your auto stop/start was disabled, the symptom, I would think the batteries voltage/current sensor was working, recognized the lower battery voltage so possible no restart, so that disabled the auto stop/start

New territory for me

 

Well, you know, the computer diagnostic is "never wrong". I agree, bad sensor>>>>> bad battery.

The battery was not "very bad", it was undercharged, for certain (11.5V) but it always started the vehicle, and no sign of any drain overnight, or over 3 days.

Taking any mechanic's word about electrical systems is questionable.... (full disclosure, electronics is my main area of work.)

 

Yep, a few dozen miles later, the NEW battery is doing just what the old one (which was undercharged ) did, because the new one is being undercharged also. in other words, it is on the same "road to ruin".

Mechanics really do not understand electric stuff. I asked the question when I picked it up, just to get it on record.... I knew what was going to happen, it don't take one a dem jeanyusses.

 

the problem is that there really aren't that many "mechanics" left in this world. If the guys at the dealer can't hook their overpriced computer up to the vehicle, they have no way to tell what's wrong. So much money gets wasted on just changing parts hoping it solves the problem its sickening. The worst part is that in my more recent experience, the dealerships are the worst ones when it comes to just changing parts. There used to be a time when the Dealership was the place that was guaranteed to fix it right the first time. I'd make them just keep putting new batteries in it until the new sensor comes in. Not your fault they're incompetent.

 

Yep, that's the plan. In a couple days maybe they have the sensor. Meanwhile, 1200 miles with bad charging....

 

Hah..... So I was in zero and below weather, and no matter the engine temp, nor how far I had driven, no-workie. But when I drove back, temperature outside went up above 45F, and voila: it started working again.

So the WAY the sensor is bad is that it has a fault in cold weather. (It threw codes, so no, it is not just responding normally to cold weather).

 

I wonder if it's just a bad connection effected by cold weather.

 

Of course it is, but it may be a connection that is supposed to be made permanently, internal to the sensor, such as solder, weld, whatever. Reasonably common in electronics.

Not my problem, it's under warranty.

 

The good thing about new vehicles is they have a warranty, so the dealer has to fix it for FREE
The bad thing about new vehicles is they have a warranty, so you have to WAIT for the dealer to fix it