That's just an adjustment, the no crank in Park, shifter in the cab is loose

Refresh the gang, when it does crank have you sprayed fuel into the intake and does it start, the 50/50 test?

 

No start with ether or otherwise. Just cranks. I have spark and fuel now. So FORScan fixed the pats issue

 

If there is no start with "ether" then you don't have spark at the right time or you don't have compression, simple as that

Engines are very simple to diagnose, gasoline engines needs 3 things
1. fuel, with air
2. Spark, at the right time
3. compression, above 100psi

If you spray fuel into the engine and it doesn't start up, then you are down to spark and compression
You say there is spark
So its a compression issue

 

Just pulled the plugs and checked for spark again. 1 and 5 didn’t have spark.

 

Well none have spark if engine didn't start with "ether", if even one spark plug was working engine would at least Fire, sound like it wants to start

Its very hard to test spark on a Coil Pack engines, spark plugs are in series

If you have a compression gauge I would test a few cylinders, 150psi is expected, just to take that off the table, or find out it is the problem and you can go from there

 

Only checked passenger side, cylinders 123

3 - 90
2 - 60
1 - 90

 

OK, a little confused

You posted this earlier?

C2 was higher than C1 and C3 ??
Now its 30% lower

 

I am too, I replaced the top end gaskets, while I was in there, along with valve stem seals. I would assume compression would be better?

The timing chain was pretty straight forward, so I know I didn't mess it up.

 

Well I would start by pulling the valve covers and checking the pushrods, make sure you can spin them with fingers when valve is closed

 

If pushrods don’t spin, what would that tell me?

 

Valve are not closing as they should so lower compression, and you can also double check valve timing

 

Pushrods don’t spin, or barely spin.

 

You should be able to spin them with fingers but only when that valve is fully closed, yes it can be hard to spin but should spin
You have to rotate the engine/crank to check all 12

You can check the valve timing by checking the timing mark on crank pulley and adding a mark(tape) 180 deg opposite the timing mark
#1 and #5 are matched sets, the pistons go up and down at the same time, to balance the engine
The timing mark is associated with #1 and #5 piston being up all the way, TDC(top dead center)
The intake and exhaust valve are closed for 360deg of crank rotation on that cylinders compression and power stroke
But that 180deg starts with #1 or #5 piston down all the way, which is why you add a mark 180deg opposite TDC mark

4 stroke engine
Intake stroke, intake valve starts to open just after TDC mark, as piston goes down it sucks in air/fuel mix, intake valves starts to close as you approach 180deg mark BDC(bottom dead center)

Compression stroke, both intake and exhaust valve are fully closed piston is going up compressing the air/fuel mix

Power stroke, both valves still closed, spark plug has ignited the air/fuel mix, and piston is being pushed down by the explostion

Exhaust stroke, intake and exhaust valves have been closed for 360deg now, BDC to BDC, exhaust valve now starts to open as piston goes up, pushing out the burnt air/fuel mix

Back to intake stroke, TDC mark, exhaust valve just closed and intake valve is opening again

 

Went through and checked all pushrods, They all spin.

I am an confused on how to check valve timing. I though you could set valve timing on that engine?

 

With the timing cover off you can check it

Try another compression test first, you should get 150+
All spark plugs should be out to get best test, faster crank speed

 

Compression test gave me:

3) 110 4)110
2) 90. 5) 150
1) 120. 6) 60

 

Looks like you have some valve issues
But #5 should fire when fuel is added, wouldn't be enough to start but should make a noise like starting

 

The engine sounds like it wants to start, But just won’t crank over.

Would you recommend replacing the valves?

the ends of some pushrods were worn, but I don’t think that affects compression?

 

It depends on how much they were worn, if intake valve then not as much air is sucked in, but no, engine would have been "ticking" like crazy if they were worn that bad

Yes, heads come off and go to a machine shop to get a valve job and surfacing

 

Lots of useful information and knowledge in here. Thanks for the reading. Where are we at with this project?

 

Heads are currently at a machine shop getting a rebuild. It’ll be about a week.

 

Did you get the heads back yet?

 

The shop opened back up, Both heads were cracked

 

update. I will be getting new heads through the same shop tomorrow. in the mean time I have replaced the shift tube on the column, and the cable. how to I adjust these things so the truck will shift into park? I just cant seem to figure out where exactly to adjust it.

 

The cable adjustment is on the transmission.

There is a bit of an art to it, so trial and error is where DIY ends up, lol

Fords way, MAKE SURE TIRES ARE BLOCKED!!!!!!
Now most people don't have a 3lb weight hanging around, lol
But, remember the elementary school rhyme.........."A pints a Pound the world around", so 3 pints of water = 3lb
Use a container with 3 pints of water and hang it on the shifter

The Display in the dash for P R N D 1 2 is adjusted in side the steering column and should only be adjusted AFTER the cable is done and correct