Hello out there. I have read many answers to this problem but have not come up with a solution for my problem. I have a 2011 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0l engine. I was headed to work and the truck just quit, no bang grinding or other telltale sounds. Tried restarting it and all it did was spin over. Towed it home and into the garage where i found the timing chain guide had damaged the driver's side valve cover. Long story short I replaced th engine with a lower mileage one. Replaced the timing chains and cassettes on new motor before installing. Tried starting the engine and it would just spin. Checks came up without spark, fuel was getting to the cyliners.
. I have checked the fuel pressure and it is good. The tach moves when attempting to start it. Checked the injectors with a noid and they show signal. Checked all fuses, inside and out, and they are good. Out of frustration, replaced the computer and had it flashed by a dealer. I have replaced the crank sensor, the cam sensor the coil pack and still no spark.
. I am at my wits end but don't know what to do now. Don't have the money to bring it to a shop to have them go over everything I have. Thanks.

 

Welcome to the forum

Have you done the 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the intake and crank engine
If it starts and dies then fuel is the issue
If it doesn't start/fire then spark OR compression is the issue
50/50 instant results

If it doesn't fire then you will need to test compression on at least 1 cylinder on each side, more is better, 165psi is expected, under 110psi is a no start
You did the timing chains and I am sure timing is correct but just to take it off the table test compression


And just FYI, there is no reliable way to test spark on that system, its waste spark system, 50/50 test is about the only way to test for spark and spark timing

 

Mass Air Flor
Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Pump

 

Yes did the 50/50 and no fire. Did compression on all 6 and they are very close to each other around 160.
Used the ford timing tool set for the timing.

 

If compression is OK then timing chains are OK, 160psi is OK

So the coil pack has a 4 wire connector
Purple wire should have 12v with key on, that 12v comes from fuse 44 in engine fuse box, 10 or 15amp

The other 3 wires are from computer to ground and unground each of the 3 coils in the coil pack
Coil pack spark plug wires are
3 4
2 6
1 5
front

The 5 6 4 often gets mis-wired, but engine should still fire, just run rough

Crank sensor and Cam sensor are both VR type sensors
That means they generate an AC Volt signal on their own, when engine is turning they "read" a tone wheel, looks like a gear, as each tooth passes by it causes an AC volt pulse
When cranking, 200rpm, each should show .5-1.2v AC so not much, but will show on meter set to AC Volts

Crank sensor is what starts ball rolling for spark AND fuel injectors
To test if crank sensor is working
Crank the engine over and pull out any spark plug, if tip is wet with fuel then crank sensor is working

It tip is wet then you are down to coil pack or computer

For computer
Does CEL(check engine light) come on, this means computer is booting up
If no CEL then check fuse 11 in engine bay fuse box, 30amp

For Coil, see above, about checking for 12v key on
Then check each of the other 3 wires to see if its a ground, key off, then see if its a ground key on
If meter is set for DC Volts and hooked to battery "+" and then to any one of the 3 ground wires on coil pack connector, voltage should fluctuate when cranking, not much, but should go down and up a bit, that means computer is seeing crank sensor pulse and is "sparking" the coil pack

 

Ok, so the CEL comes on. Check the coil pack and the purple is hot wirh the key on. The other wires are grounding when the key is off. As soon as I turn the key on then there is no ground at any of them even when turning it over.

 

So no spark if they are not grounding on and off when cranking

Was the spark plug tip WET, so you know the crank sensor is working?
It should be soaked, it will light with a match


Did you have a look at the crank sensor and its tone wheel, no mud between teeth and crank sensor is very close to the teeth as they spin by
Should look like this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SY355_.jpg

It should have 1 missing tooth, a gap, that tells computer when #1(and #5) are at top dead center so it can time spark and injectors
And as said, its 2 wires should show 1vAC when cranking

 

Plugs soaked in fuel. Crank sensor changed. The cogs are clean and straight with the gap there.

 

If plug is wet then crank sensor is working(and PATS is not an issue), and I would expect a code in any case if it wasn't, but I don't rely on computers 100%, lol

So you are really down to the computer(PCM) and I know you replaced that already

I was under the impression that the PCM needed to be "married" to the digital instrument cluster(HEC) in 2004 and up Ranger or it would cause a no start, but not sure that effected spark, just fuel, i.e. PATS

The PCM has good ground because you see that on the coil ground wires key off
But no toggling ground when cranking


Ignition coils work by supplying them with 12v and a ground, then when ground is cut, coil sparks, thats what Points did in a distributor, and nothing has changed, they all still work the same way, it just uses a transistor in the PCM now to ground and unground each coil in the pack, so there are 3 transistors in the PCM each connected to one of the ground wires at the coil pack
For all 3 to fail at the same time would be almost impossible, so all 3 are not getting the signal from the PCM timing circuit
I can see no other explanation except PCM issue

 

I have the same problem, what was the solución?

 

Welcome to the forum

You need to start your own thread, and include YEAR of your Ranger, also engine size?
And your symptom, i.e. "crank but no start"
Do the 50/50 test

 

Does it turn over faster then normal? Long ago I had a Honda that did that and the belt snapped on me luckily didn't harm the engine but I had no spark no start or anything.

 

Hello, Anyone know Casper AG, I have exactly the same problem; It is a Ford ranger 2011 4.0l the engine was removed to replace time chains now it does not turn on, it was put on time with the special tool, there is signal in the injectors, when it starts the rpms can be read, there are no codes, it was replaced the crankshaft sensor, the computer and still does not turn on. I did all the tests and every thing is ok, check the wires for the crank sensor, coil and pcm grounds and voltage. That is the reason to contact Casper AG.

 

Does the Starter motor work?
Is the engine turning

If so spray gasoline into the engine yourself, 50/50 test
Then try to start it
If it starts and then stops you have no fuel getting to the engine
If it doesn't start then you have no spark or no compression

Test compression, should be 160-170psi

 

Engine is turning, cranks but not start. Did all the checks and the problem is that there is no spark, everything else is present, injector spray fuel, fuel pressure is ok, compression is around 160. Check the wires from crank sensor to pcm, to ignition coil no problem there; replaced crank sensor, ignition coil, and pcm (remanufactured) and the problem persist.

 

All that's left is the computer(PCM)

 

Have you checked the 15 amp fuse in slot 44 under the hood ?

 

Yes I checked all the fuses related to pcm also the grounds

 

I think the same but it makes me doubt that the computer has already changed and does the same, computer is remanufactured

 

I'm currently chasing the same issues. Any solution to your No Start condition?

 

We found the problem with ours. See the detailed description at the dwidhalm 4.0 SOHC no start thread.