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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #26  
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Something like this, but weather or not if there's enough room behind it.

Pilot Bearing Puller by: Trident - UKtools Limited - Hand Tools : Power Tools :
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  #27  
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Got the new motor painted today, should receive the clutch kit in another day or two. Then it will be time to bolt it in ! Quick question about pilot bearings, so I noticed the pilot bearing was in my flywheel, and not inserted into back of the engine. It also had no needle bearings left at all.

I was able to knock out the bearing using a socket and a hammer.

When i I go to install the new one , should it sit in the flywheel or in the cavity at back of the motor ? Also should I grease it up with normal gp grease.
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  #28  
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The needle bearing (bushing) is a slight compression fit on the end of the crank shaft.
I've always used clear silicon grease on the pilot bearings.

Not sure what "gp" grease is ???
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  #29  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
The needle bearing (bushing) is a slight compression fit on the end of the crank shaft.
I've always used clear silicon grease on the pilot bearings.

Not sure what "gp" grease is ???
When saying GP , im referring to general purpose grease. Wasn't sure if it needed something like high temperature grease or not. Ok I will install the pilot bearing into the cavity on back of the crankshaft. I thought it was suppose to go there but it was certainly in the flywheel when I pulled it off! ha, maybe this pilot is the reason the truck was always hard to go into gear while i've owned it.
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  #30  
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No special grease needed, but GP grease may be a little heavy, that's why I use silicon grease.
It's the same as that dielectric grease _ some use white lithium, but that stuff can dry up because it oxidizes.
That bearing just adds support to the input shaft on the trans, it only comes into play when you put the clutch in, so doesn't actually get used that much _ no high temperature grease needed.

Yes, for sure, the chewed up bearing and all the bits in the wrong spot would cause difficult shifting.
When the clutch is in, the chewed bearing wasn't allowing the input shaft to totally disengage from the load of the engine _ kind of like trying to shift with a bit off air in the system.
Shifting now will be noticeably easier and less frustrating.

Just to note, that I've never seen a pilot bearing in that bad of shape.
I'm thinking that it was never greased upon assembly and or when the trans was mounted it was forced into position, damaging the bearing.
It's also possible that any previous owners liked ride the clutch, that would continually keep that bearing sort of turning while they had their foot on the pedal.
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  #31  
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Received the clutch kit in the mail today ! Hoping to install it this evening. Swapped over the fuel injectors to the new motor. Also swapped over the alternator , thermostat housing and variable hoses.

going to put some new spark plugs in it while I'm at it. With the 4.0 sohc is there only the one bushing / bearing that goes into the crankshaft ?
One of my buddies said it's suppose to go into the flywheel but I don't know why it wouldn't go into the crankshaft.

Going to run full synthetic oil in this new motor too , it's colder over this way so it may help.
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  #32  
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Make sure the new pressure plate is of the self adjusting type.
See the yellow springs in the screen shot.

The needle bearing will come with the outer race and a cage to hold the needles themselves in place.
It goes into the end of the crank, not the flywheel.
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  #33  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
Make sure the new pressure plate is of the self adjusting type.
See the yellow springs in the screen shot.

The needle bearing will come with the outer race and a cage to hold the needles themselves in place.
It goes into the end of the crank, not the flywheel.
I appreciate the reply , I sized things up pretty good earlier , I noticed some slight rub marks on the output shaft , looks like the bearing was rubbing inside the flywheel. Ok I will put it in the crankshaft , wanted to make sure because I was getting a lot of mixed inputs on it. Also I don't know why the previous owner had it installed in the flywheel.

will update with more progress
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  #34  
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Got my flywheel resurfaced today , looks brand new ! Not bad for 50$. Figured I'm this far into it might as well do everything right.

got motorcraft plugs ordered and picked up a motorcraft filter. Quick question again here guys haha, i think I know the answer but I like to be certain. I noticed on the floor next to my original engine there was a rubber ring that was on the ground. It might have fell off when I removed the flywheel. Does it sit behind the flywheel ? Is it just a compression spacer ? Pics are attached.

also when I put all bolts back in the truck , should I be using threadlocker or antiseize compound?

https://ibb.co/kYxe7F
https://ibb.co/dyT81a
https://ibb.co/iwhwnF
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  #35  
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Copper anti seize compound on any exhaust bolts that's for sure.
Or anything to do with exhaust.

I used the green (non permanent) locker on my flywheel bolts and on the pressure plate _ doesn't hurt.

Plus it seals the threads on the end of the crank so no oil seepage will happen _ not that it could happen because there are no lock washers involved.

Don't know what that rubber ring is for, that's one for Ron.
I've never seen anything like that in any engine between the flywheel and engine.

Made your links live for you. :-)

https://ibb.co/kYxe7F
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  #36  
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Thanks for the reply, I'll bolt it in without the ring as I can't find it anywhere on diagrams so no idea where it came from
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  #37  
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Well todays update;
Flywheel installed, Clutch kit installed including slave cylinder, pilot bearing installed.
New motorcraft sparkplugs installed. Exhaust manifold that was removed, now reinstalled with new studs.

Tomorrow I will hopefully have the engine bolted in and mated. Will post progress pics and hopefully a follow up video !
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  #38  
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Well got the engine down in the engine bay today. Struggled a nice bit, was unable to get the engine bolted together tonight. Had it lined up pretty good at one point but couldn't get the bottom bolts to thread. Going to try getting a inch longer bolts just for lining it up.

Hopefully tomorrow works better and it gets mated!
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  #39  
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Any one have any tips on how to mate / dock the engine to the Tranny while the tranny is still in ? Having issues lining things up. Struggled for another hour or two today trying to line up the splines and pull the engine close enough to get a bolt through
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  #40  
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It's almost a two person job, mine was a bear too, pretty close tolerances.

I jacked up one rear wheel and had it in gear while one person turned that wheel to get the splines to line up.

I also made a couple of studs to line up the bell housing to the block _ make sure they're long enough so you can thread them out once things have been mated.

Assuming that you used a clutch alignment tool _ better then "eye-balling".
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  #41  
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Got the motor mated to the tranny ! Had a friend come by to help and we managed to get it after wrestling it all for a while. One question though , did the motors bell housing bolt pattern. Change over the years ? I got all the bolts in except for one of the very top bolts. The top passenger side bolt had nothing to thread into. Everything else Lined up good however. I also tried to move truck while it was in gear and it's holding like it should.
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  #42  
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The SOHC used and extra bolt hole in bell housing

Pictures here of the 4.0l OHV trans and SOHC trans bolt holes, extra one at 11:00: http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...-R1HD_swap.htm
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  #43  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
The SOHC used and extra bolt hole in bell housing

Pictures here of the 4.0l OHV trans and SOHC trans bolt holes, extra one at 11:00: How to replace a M5OD-R1 with a M5OD-R1HD
still a bit confusing , because all I'm doing is replacing a older 03 sohc to a newer 09 sohc. It should be the same shouldn't it ?
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  #44  
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yes, it would be the same

Maybe new block has stripped out hole or used bolt and nut instead of threaded hole
Or bolt threads in from block side to bell housing??
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  #45  
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Ok guys heres the update:
Found that hole after and was able to get it to thread. original bolt was chewed up so it didnt wanna go.


Got the truck running!! Finished up buttoning up things enough to test it out!
I turned the key a few times to get the fuel back up through her. Then went ahead to start her. Started up fine, ran okay for about 3-4 seconds then starting idling very rough almost like it has a bad vacuum leak. Few things i noted:

1) Leaking exhaust fumes around the manifold from the heads , and leaking exhaust fumes around the flanges that bolt on the down pipes.
2) I still have this connector off in the picture and that ball thing that sits in the passenger side fender flare, could that do it? I believe this connector plugs into the ball shape thing on the passenger side fender flare.
3) Running brand new motorcraft plugs for the 09 block, and reusing my 03 Distributor + wires

If you need a video I can take it as well. Thank you highly for all the help! Im quite happy it even turned on !, no oil leaks or fuel leaks or anything either. Just possible vacuum and exhaust leak. also needs to bleed my clutch severely , it didnt grab until it was almost all the way up from the floor.
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  #46  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
yes, it would be the same

Maybe new block has stripped out hole or used bolt and nut instead of threaded hole
Or bolt threads in from block side to bell housing??
Ok need some input here, got the truck running but it doesn't seem like it sounds good to me. I still have to tighten the exhaust bolts up , passenger side exhaust is leaking for sure. Also found a vacuum line I had forgot.

i took 3 videos , need some input on why you think the engine sounds like she's running rough.

Video 1 ( start up ) sounded normal other then exhaust leak to me. In the other 2 videos it sounds like she's missing or idling weird to myself. No check engine lights.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!!!
https://youtu.be/YQR7Rs5Kofw
https://youtu.be/xKmaXj12-M0
https://youtu.be/TpSVwc0Nx_o
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  #47  
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Double check, then triple check coil pack wires
1 2 3
5 6 4
Front

5 6 4 side gets me every time
Also confirm the spark plug ends are correct, for all

Yes it is missing, and REVing causes a bit of back fires

After engine a a bit warm, unplug IAC Valve
It will close and engine RPMs should drop to 500, or even stall, either is good, no vacuum leak
If idle doesn't change then you have a vacuum leak
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  #48  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Double check, then triple check coil pack wires
1 2 3
5 6 4
Front

5 6 4 side gets me every time
Also confirm the spark plug ends are correct, for all

Yes it is missing, and REVing causes a bit of back fires

After engine a a bit warm, unplug IAC Valve
It will close and engine RPMs should drop to 500, or even stall, either is good, no vacuum leak
If idle doesn't change then you have a vacuum leak
Hi Ron, Checked the plug wires thoroughly today. Compared it with my other ranger and I had them in the right order. I also took every plug wire off, cleaned the top of the plugs a lil again and then reinstalled them.

I also tightened down the manifold to downpipe bolts. Still got a bad exhaust leak by my rear cat ( going to be reinstalling that rear cat due to the exhaust leak.

Outside that I tried your IAC Test. It worked like it should, it dropped to 500 after I disonnected it with the engine running.

Today the truck finally gave me a few engine codes:
p0171 -- I googled this and it said the system is running too lean
p0511 -- I understand this is from me pulling the IAC

I read somewhere that p0511 could be caused by a EGR valve? my 03 doesnt have the valve on it that i can see anywhere. However my other 4.0 does have it.

Last edited by NLBurden; 2 Days Ago at 08:37 AM.
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  #49  
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Lean, and Rich, Codes are set by fuel injector open time, engine is never actually running Lean, or Rich.
Computer calculates air:fuel mix based on RPMs, throttle position, air temp and MAF(air flow)
It then opens fuel injectors for, say 100milliseconds to add the calculated amount of fuel
Computer then looks at O2 sensor voltage to see if exhaust is Lean(too much Oxygen) or too Rich(not enough Oxygen)
If Lean then computer opens injectors for 102ms, then checks O2s again, then 104ms, ect......
If open time exceeds 15% of original calculation then computer sets Lean code
But engine was never running Lean, well maybe for 2 seconds or so, lol.

The exhaust leak at the manifold sucks IN air, the O2 sensors see that air and tell computer exhaust is Lean(to much oxygen), so computer adds more fuel, and then sets the Lean code.

But in this case it is a False Lean, a vacuum leak would be a True Lean, so over Rich mix could cause the rough running.

Cat exhaust leak wouldn't do this only exhaust Manifold leak, but Cat leak would cause long term fuel trims to be off

Cold start doesn't use O2 sensors, O2 needs to be warmed up to 600+ degrees to work, which takes 2 to 3 minutes, so if cold start seems to run OK then exhaust leak, in this case was the issue
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  #50  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Lean, and Rich, Codes are set by fuel injector open time, engine is never actually running Lean, or Rich.
Computer calculates air:fuel mix based on RPMs, throttle position, air temp and MAF(air flow)
It then opens fuel injectors for, say 100milliseconds to add the calculated amount of fuel
Computer then looks at O2 sensor voltage to see if exhaust is Lean(too much Oxygen) or too Rich(not enough Oxygen)
If Lean then computer opens injectors for 102ms, then checks O2s again, then 104ms, ect......
If open time exceeds 15% of original calculation then computer sets Lean code
But engine was never running Lean, well maybe for 2 seconds or so, lol.

The exhaust leak at the manifold sucks IN air, the O2 sensors see that air and tell computer exhaust is Lean(to much oxygen), so computer adds more fuel, and then sets the Lean code.

But in this case it is a False Lean, a vacuum leak would be a True Lean, so over Rich mix could cause the rough running.

Cat exhaust leak wouldn't do this only exhaust Manifold leak, but Cat leak would cause long term fuel trims to be off

Cold start doesn't use O2 sensors, O2 needs to be warmed up to 600+ degrees to work, which takes 2 to 3 minutes, so if cold start seems to run OK then exhaust leak, in this case was the issue
Well Ron,I wouldnt have been able to do it without your help as well as Jeffs help. Got the manifold snugged up ( the new one I had to install wasn't on tight enough I dont think, each bolt i got a good half turn or more ). Got the truck running perfect now!! No codes and sounding like it should. Bled the clutch as well.

I am still very happy my first motor swap worked out. Only thing I had to do really that was a swap , was to change over the thermostat housing, a vacuum hose from the back side of the engine ( driverside valve cover ), and fuel injectors from my old engine to the new engine. Everythings working great!!
Thank you all highly. 03 to 09 engine complete
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