My 1994 ranger 4l auto 4x4 after driving on high way when I stop it will jerk forwould then stalls. I know I need to to plugs and wiers but this has become a bigger problem. told it was a torque converter but no sheer?
RonD
RF Veteran
close
May 27, 2024
- Join DateJan 2014
- LocationVancouver, BC
- Posts:30,635
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
-
Likes:1,414
-
Liked:2,949 Times in 2,689 Posts
Well you do have a Locking torque converter on a '94, and one of the symptoms of solenoid or converter problem is when it stays locked and stalls the engine when you come to stop.
To see if it is an engine issue or torque converter problem, shift into neutral when coming to a stop, if engine always stays running then it is indeed torque converter or solenoid issue.
Long shot would be computer control but not completely off the table.
If engine still stalls in neutral then it could be.............well i can't think of anything, lol.
The A4LD transmission in 1994 Ranger had 2 solenoids, the Torque converter lock/unlock and the 3/4 shift solenoid(Over Drive solenoid)
It is a pretty simple set up, there will be a 3 wire connector on the trans(not to be confused with 4 or 5 wire NSS wires above shifter)
1 of these wires will have 12volts with key on, the other 2 run to the computer, they are "Grounds" controlled by the computer.
So both solenoids get 12volts when key is on but neither has a Ground until computer grounds it which activates the solenoid.
To see if it is an engine issue or torque converter problem, shift into neutral when coming to a stop, if engine always stays running then it is indeed torque converter or solenoid issue.
Long shot would be computer control but not completely off the table.
If engine still stalls in neutral then it could be.............well i can't think of anything, lol.
The A4LD transmission in 1994 Ranger had 2 solenoids, the Torque converter lock/unlock and the 3/4 shift solenoid(Over Drive solenoid)
It is a pretty simple set up, there will be a 3 wire connector on the trans(not to be confused with 4 or 5 wire NSS wires above shifter)
1 of these wires will have 12volts with key on, the other 2 run to the computer, they are "Grounds" controlled by the computer.
So both solenoids get 12volts when key is on but neither has a Ground until computer grounds it which activates the solenoid.
When Its about to stall I can take it out of gear and all good haw would I go about testing the sensers? If that's what it could be?
RonD
RF Veteran
close
May 27, 2024
- Join DateJan 2014
- LocationVancouver, BC
- Posts:30,635
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
-
Likes:1,414
-
Liked:2,949 Times in 2,689 Posts
Solenoid.........not a sensor.
Yes, if you take it out of gear and engine doesn't stall then TCC(torque converter clutch) solenoid is the problem.
remove the 3 wire connector on transmission
Inside the transmission side of connector you will see 3 connections inside, Center, left and right
Using an ohm meter, put probe on Center connector and the other probe on Right connection, it should read between 20-30 ohms
Leave probe on Center connector and put other probe on Left connector, should read 20-30 ohms
The two solenoids are inside the transmission but can be accessed with pan off.
You may want to get a quote from a transmission shop to change TCC solenoid, or have them test solenoids and quote a price to repair.
TCC Solenoid could be fine and problem is in transmission passage.
Automatics work using high pressure fluids in passages, that is why they look so complicated, and they are in a way, like looking at an electronic circuit board, but there are certain things that happen with each model of transmission, blown gasket in one section, blocked passage, bad solenoid, trans shop will know what to look for on an A4LD.
Yes, if you take it out of gear and engine doesn't stall then TCC(torque converter clutch) solenoid is the problem.
remove the 3 wire connector on transmission
Inside the transmission side of connector you will see 3 connections inside, Center, left and right
Using an ohm meter, put probe on Center connector and the other probe on Right connection, it should read between 20-30 ohms
Leave probe on Center connector and put other probe on Left connector, should read 20-30 ohms
The two solenoids are inside the transmission but can be accessed with pan off.
You may want to get a quote from a transmission shop to change TCC solenoid, or have them test solenoids and quote a price to repair.
TCC Solenoid could be fine and problem is in transmission passage.
Automatics work using high pressure fluids in passages, that is why they look so complicated, and they are in a way, like looking at an electronic circuit board, but there are certain things that happen with each model of transmission, blown gasket in one section, blocked passage, bad solenoid, trans shop will know what to look for on an A4LD.
I have a trans flued leek two can thay be from the same thing? I just got the truck don't know much about a auto trans...is there a way testing it with out taking the pan or something like that off?
RonD
RF Veteran
close
May 27, 2024
- Join DateJan 2014
- LocationVancouver, BC
- Posts:30,635
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
-
Likes:1,414
-
Liked:2,949 Times in 2,689 Posts
No, trans fluid leak wouldn't cause the stalling but could be a symptom of a blocked passage building up too much pressure.
And trans leak could just be pan gasket leaking like a valve cover gasket or oil pan gasket.
Google: A4LD transmission
Look for other posts about this trans.
There were literally 100's of thousands of A4LDs installed in Ford cars and trucks
It is a good transmission but got a bad rap because of "rebuilders" doing a cheap/bad job
Read:
And trans leak could just be pan gasket leaking like a valve cover gasket or oil pan gasket.
Google: A4LD transmission
Look for other posts about this trans.
There were literally 100's of thousands of A4LDs installed in Ford cars and trucks
It is a good transmission but got a bad rap because of "rebuilders" doing a cheap/bad job
Read:
Quote:
When having an A4LD rebuilt, there are a couple of things that you need to make sure of. First and foremost, do not let a shop do a soft parts fix only (clutches, servos, and bands). This will almost ensure that you will have another repair needed right after the 1-year warranty is out. Other things you want to have replaced are: forward one-way clutch (always), overdrive drum (stamped tin, replace if out of round or heat damaged), pump (Ford only, rebuilds are prone to failure), and the converter (get the better converter with the improved lock-up clutch and brazed fins).
Also, get references from the shop and call the people. Just because they can rebuild TH350's and C4's does not mean they know what they are doing with overdrive trannies.
When having an A4LD rebuilt, there are a couple of things that you need to make sure of. First and foremost, do not let a shop do a soft parts fix only (clutches, servos, and bands). This will almost ensure that you will have another repair needed right after the 1-year warranty is out. Other things you want to have replaced are: forward one-way clutch (always), overdrive drum (stamped tin, replace if out of round or heat damaged), pump (Ford only, rebuilds are prone to failure), and the converter (get the better converter with the improved lock-up clutch and brazed fins).
Also, get references from the shop and call the people. Just because they can rebuild TH350's and C4's does not mean they know what they are doing with overdrive trannies.
