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Ground volt meter and test the Pink/black stripe wire at the fuel pump connection
It should have 12volts but only for 2 seconds, when key is turn on and passes PATS test

PATS(passive anti-theft system) only powers up fuel pump if the PATS key in the ignition switch is a match to the Key(s) in its memory
It also won't turn on fuel injectors

If PATS is the problem then Theft Light on dash will flash rapidly with key on, and no fuel pump power.
With key off and out, the Theft light should flash every 5 to 10 seconds or so, that tells you the bulb isn't burned out


If you KNOW it is not a PATS issue then if there is no 12v for 2 seconds with key on you should open the hood and engine fuse box.
Check Fuse #23, 20amp, thats the power for fuel pump
There is also a Fuel Pump Relay, FP Relay, it is a standard 12v 40amp automotive relay
It should "click" Open and then Closed for those 2 seconds with key on

Unless vehicle is a repaired/salvaged vehicle inertia switch as the problem would be unlikely, it has a Red button on the top, if it is down then all is well.

A fuel pump can spin, come on, but can't make pressure, 60psi is expected, and thats alot of pressure.
Return line from filter should not allow flow back to tank until pressure gets above 55psi at the rail

 

 

Ok, just did checks from the last post. Checked the red wire at one of the fuel injectors for 12v with the plug pulled off and the key on. I got 12v. I also checked the fuel pump fuse and relay, both good. I'm still not getting the 2 second 12v reading at the fuel pump connector after turning the key on. Without going out and buying a noid light, could it be that there is a computer issue that's not allowing the fuel injectors to pulse? How would that affect the no voltage reading at the pump? I'm almost at the point of having it towed to a repair shop and holding my breath waiting for the bill, which I hate to do because I've always been mechanically inclined and hate to admit failure. Any other suggestions?

 

Is Theft Light on dash Flashing Rapidly?

And with key OFF does it Flash every 10 seconds or so, bulb is OK?

That needs to be addressed before anything else.

PATS prevents fuel pump voltage and injector pulses(grounds) if PATS Key in ignition doesn't pass the test.

A mobile locksmith with Ford Software can cut and reprogram new PATS keys at your place.

The Fuel pump relay is clicking with key on?
But no 12v at the pump?

There is an inertia switch behind the passenger kick panel, can also be just above carpet under glove box, small box with 2 or 3 wires and a RED button on the top, make sure red button has not popped up, push it down if it has

 

My owner's manual makes no mention of a Theft Light. They don't even have it listed as one of the dashboard icons. I'm using the same key that I've always used with no problem in the past. Is this Theft Light is the center of the dash with all the other warning lights? The fuel pump relay does not click with the key on. I've checked the inertia switch, bypassed it and made sure it was reset.

 

I looked at 2005 instrument cluster diagram and it does not show Theft light, not sure why?

Is there a "LOCK" icon any where in the dash, looks like a padlock.
2005 V6 Ranger for sure has PATS also called SecuriLock

2004 and 2006 instrument cluster diagrams BOTH have Theft Light, so not sure whats up with 2005???

 

No "LOCK" icon anywhere in the dash. If this truck has PATS, they're sure hiding it. I tried using the other factory key from when I bought it new and it still won't start. Looking at one of the electrical schematics I have, the fuel pump relay coil gets its power from the EEC power relay. Another schematic shows it getting power from the PCM power relay. Are these relays the same thing, just being given different names? Neither show any PATS component.

 

Yes, EEC and PCM are both terms for the Computer that runs the engine
EEC, Electronic Engine Control was earliest name, when it pretty much just did the fuel injection
PCM, Powertrain Control Module, was used later because it also controlled transmission shifting in automatics

Yes the Fuel Pump Relay gets 12volts at its Coil with Key ON
But coil is not Grounded so there is no circuit
The PATS module gives the "OK" to Ground it if Key passes the test

Same with fuel injectors, they all get 12volts with Key ON, from EEC Relay as well
But they have no Ground so no circuit
Computer grounds them if PATS "says OK"

But its very odd your starter works if its a PATS issue, PATS needs to Ground the Starter Relay so it can work(close) and activate starter motor
Starter Relay's coil gets 12v from Key in START Position, but if PATS hasn't Grounded it nothing happens

 

So, if the starter relay is energizing, that means, most likely, the PATS is allowing it. Which should also mean the PATS should also allow the EEC relay to ground too. I may be wrong, but it's sounding more and more like it could be the computer that's having an issue. What do you think? And if it is, what's the next step?
Ron, I appreciate your sticking with me on this. I'm hoping we can figure this out and get that Ranger back on the road where it belongs!

 

Yes, if starter motor is working then PATS is probably not the issue.

I would do a 50/50 test just to confirm no fuel issue
Spray a little gasoline or starting fluid(ether) into the engine
Try to start it
If it starts and dies then fuel is the problem
If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the first problem to address
50/50

Computer could be the problem but a long shot, they do fail, just not at all a common failure


You can pull fuel pump relay and jumper the slots from full time 12v to inertia switch wire, to fuel pump
Then try to start the engine with fuel pump running.

This page has standard automotive relay socket layout: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...5-fogs-as-drls

30 slot will usually have the full time 12v, but could also be 87 slot
87 slot would usually be the inertia switch wire, but that could be 30 slot as well
Test which one has 12v full time, if neither then fuel pump fuse is blown

Point is a jumper wire from 30 to 87 slots will get fuel pump its 12volts, key on or off
87a is not used, and may not even be there

85 and 86 are the relays coil, one will have 12v with key on and only with key on, the other is the Ground from computer(PATS)
You could test to make sure the 12v is there with key on, that would mean the computers ground wire is the issue or computer itself

If engine still doesn't start with fuel pump on THEN I would assume computer issue as it is not pulsing the injectors

 

 

Well, finally got it running! I jumped out the fuel pump relay contacts but the pump didn't run. I took another look at the schematic and saw that the relay sends power to the inertia switch. I had already checked the inertia switch, made sure it wasn't tripped and even bypassed it with no luck. This time I bypassed it by wire-nutting the two wires together and then jumping out the relay. I went back to the pump and heard it running. So I turned the key and the engine started right up. I put the relay back in and it started up again. One thing that had me stumped all along is the fact that I wasn't getting pressure at the fuel rail. I'm suspecting now that the depressor on the hose wasn't pushing the schrader pin in enough to allow gas to reach the gauge. So, as often happens, it's was a combination of troubleshooting screw ups.
Ron, I want to thank you for all your help. It's nice to know there are extremely knowledgeable people out there that are so willing to share what they know.

 

Good work

And thanks, but all I had to do was to sit back and read what you wrote