Overheating in 4x4 only? and cold heat? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-02-2007
Bigdank's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 83
Icon5 Overheating in 4x4 only? and cold heat?

This is my problem: whenever i put my truck in 4x4 and start drivin her in 1st gear through mud pits and up hill climbs she starts overheating; Or in the only other case i have of her overheating is, if i let her idle for about 15-20 mins it will start overheating. Also, my heater will only ever blow out luke warm air and then if my baby starts overheating and i let her cool down the heater just blows out cold air - not AC air but like outside air (which in my case is not warm)

Note: i just changed the thermostat last night and so i took her up to this wheelin spot to test here out. Well it seemed like it didnt overheat as fast when i put in that new thermostat but it still overheated.

If anyone has any ideas to what my problem could be please drop me a line.
So far im considering a clogged radiator hose or perhaps a busted heater core.

Last edited by Bigdank; 12-02-2007 at 02:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-02-2007
RockysFord's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 2,782
Could be a clogged radiator.... air bubble in the coolant system.... Clogged / pinched radiator hose... i would say thermostat, but you said you changed it...

Rocky
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-02-2007
RockysFord's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 2,782
I also dont think its just because its in 4wd, i think its just when a harder strain is on the motor... same with letting it idle... if it only does it every once in awhile i would check on doing a full coolant flush and make sure there are no air pockets...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-02-2007
Biz's Avatar
Biz Biz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: los angeles,California
Posts: 2,120
^^ i also dont think its teh 4wd,i would say look at the radiator
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-02-2007
Bigdank's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by RockysFord
I also dont think its just because its in 4wd, i think its just when a harder strain is on the motor... same with letting it idle... if it only does it every once in awhile i would check on doing a full coolant flush and make sure there are no air pockets...

well i changed the radiator fluid and hosed it out with water. is that what you mean by doing a coolant flush? i dont know if this has anything to do with it but its worth mentioning. i noticed that my radiator fluid always turns brown like theres a lot of rust in there. Also, when you say check for air bubbles...how would i do something like that? is it just a visible thing?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-02-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 688
What do you mean it always turns brown? In what amount of time? You might consider taking it somewhere and having it flushed.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-02-2007
Bigdank's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by PW01
What do you mean it always turns brown? In what amount of time? You might consider taking it somewhere and having it flushed.
i think it turns brown almost immediatly. in my radiator overflow its always brown and when i drained my radiator fluid to change my thermostat all of it was a dark poopy brown. i just changed my radiator fluid about a month before i just recently drained the fluid. i noticed that the cover of my thermostat - the part thats bolted on was all rusted inside. i tried scrapin the bigger chunks out. anywho could that be a sign of a problem?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-02-2007
Biz's Avatar
Biz Biz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: los angeles,California
Posts: 2,120
ur fluid shouldnt be brown..lol..id take it in to aamco or something to have it looked at,or atleast somwhere where they will look at it for free.U may need a new radiator because it seems like something is getting your fluids all dirty..have it checked out
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-02-2007
RockysFord's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 2,782
sounds exactly like a astro van that came in the other day... for a "coolant flush" **** was brown, and caked in the block, hoses, overflow, etc... we replaced the radiator, thermostat and hoses... and flushed it about 3 times.... and it was still coming out alittle dark...

Take it somewhere so they can hook up the machine to it, and flush it... dont put water in it at all this time of year... any water left over will freeze and possibly crack something...

Air bubbles are not visable... think of like... drinking pop and having to burp... it just wont come up... most cars come with a tiny 8mm bolt that unscrews to relieve pressure.. until coolant starts coming out... but on other cars i just leave the radiator cap off, and keep topping it off... it can get messy, seeing as when it "burps" some of it comes out...

But all in all, if i were you, i would take it to a shop that flushes.. NOT midas, lol... just ttell them you want it flushed until its the right color...

Rocky
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-03-2007
Bigdank's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 83
i like that, "have em flush it til its the right color", hell yea. ill do that. But do you think that will fix my truck from overheating, or how about not getting any hot air in the cab? i really want to fix those things.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12-03-2007
WowMike2001's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stevenson, WA
Posts: 2,583
Get soem coolant flush and do it yoruself..!

its as simple as draining all the coolant (sucks and somewhat expensive to refill sadly), put in a 30 minute coolant chemical flush that will dislodge any rust buildups.. let your truck idle for 30 minutes, come back out, flush the radiator out with clean water and keep it flowing for a couple minutes to clear out all the flush chemical. Then fill her back up with your choice radiator fluid =)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-03-2007
Dangeranger3's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 153
From the color, is it oil in the coolant? Feel it between you fingers. Does it feel oily? If it does thats bad news. How many miles? Does it hold coolant constant (not leak any or get low). Oil change regularly and not get low and look normal?
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-03-2007
wydopnthrtl's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SE, Mi
Posts: 2,342
Anytime you have poor heater performance (and no leaks) it's because of debris build up. (there is a possible valve in the hoses.. but I don't think rangers have them?)

Heater core flush:
Turn the heater setting to hot.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine end.
Flush them as good as possible w/a water hose until you see nothing but clear water.

Radiator flush:
Remove the lower & upper radiator hoses.
Remove the rads drain plug
Flush with a hose / sprayer until you have nothing but clear water running out. **you may have quite a bit of junk in the bottom of the rad. If so spray the nozzle up into the lower hose connection tube to blast it loose**

Engine flush:
Remove the t-stat
Flush from the top down at the stat opening & the heater hose connections.

Put everything back and fill with only water.
Drive the truck for a good 20 minutes and then re-drain the system.
Now fill with a 50/50 mix and you should be good to go.

Also, while your doing all this make sure you spray out the fins of the rad. You might have some mud/debris buildup that's not helping this situation out.

Rich (OEM cooling engineer for 6 years )
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-03-2007
5speedin2.3's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 12
sounds like air, did you properly bleed the coolant system?
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-03-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 688
I'd buy a chemical flush, dump it in, and drive it to a shop for a machine flush. You can effectively flush a well maintained system at home, but this one sounds pretty bad!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12-03-2007
Bigdank's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Newberg, Oregon
Posts: 83
my truck is about to turn over to 100k miles today a matter of fact. My truck has no leaks whatsoever. No oil in the radiator fluid. When i bought the trucka bout 7k miles ago the truck was extremly dirty from being driven on gravel roads. I farmer owned it and im thinken that it may be clogged with dirt from driven on dry gravel roads.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3
sounds like air, did you properly bleed the coolant system?
I have never bleeded my coolant system to my knowledge, where is the bleeder located? i have bleeded the clutch slave cylinder before and my breaks. so im a lil familiar with this.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-03-2007
wydopnthrtl's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SE, Mi
Posts: 2,342
There is no "bleeder" on the cooling system. The only way to "burp" the system is to have elevated rpms when the stat opens.

Rich
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-03-2007
Blhde's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
but I don't think rangers have them?


Rangers have a heater control valve. It located right next to the heater core on the hoses.

BigDank, get the coolant back to the correct color. As far as bleeding the system, just let the truck run 15-20 minutes with the rad cap off And heater on high. Maybe longer if its cold out.


While the truck runs it will puke air into the radiator. Just top it off before you put the cap back on.


Also check the reservoir tank and flush it.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-05-2007
SparkYZ's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Granada Hills, CA
Posts: 679
Quote:
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Anytime you have poor heater performance (and no leaks) it's because of debris build up. (there is a possible valve in the hoses.. but I don't think rangers have them?)

Heater core flush:
Turn the heater setting to hot.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine end.
Flush them as good as possible w/a water hose until you see nothing but clear water.

Radiator flush:
Remove the lower & upper radiator hoses.
Remove the rads drain plug
Flush with a hose / sprayer until you have nothing but clear water running out. **you may have quite a bit of junk in the bottom of the rad. If so spray the nozzle up into the lower hose connection tube to blast it loose**

Engine flush:
Remove the t-stat
Flush from the top down at the stat opening & the heater hose connections.

Put everything back and fill with only water.
Drive the truck for a good 20 minutes and then re-drain the system.
Now fill with a 50/50 mix and you should be good to go.

Also, while your doing all this make sure you spray out the fins of the rad. You might have some mud/debris buildup that's not helping this situation out.

Rich (OEM cooling engineer for 6 years )

+1 He's right. And someone said dont put any water in your coolant...DONT DO THAT! Antifreeze alone will cause your motor to overheat. Water conducts heat far better than antifreeze. The only purpose of antifreeze is to lower freezing point and raise boiling point.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-05-2007
wydopnthrtl's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SE, Mi
Posts: 2,342
Thanks for the catch Blhde.

And straight antifreeze is not good. It's boiling point is lower than a mix of antifreeze / water. It's just a waste unless your at the north pole.... in the middle of winter.

Most people in north america (including Canada) will be fine with a 50/50 -to- 30/70 mix. (50%-70% antifreeze) Also, antifreeze has anti corrosion ingrediants in it. So a fella ought to run at least a 30% mix of it just for that alone.

What is more effective and often gets overlooked is the rad cap or the degas bottle cap. They do go bad over time!

Rich
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 12-05-2007
Rockledge's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 479
Any kind of "thumping noises" in the cab? Some 4.0Ls had issues with the water pump.
Quote:
ARTICLE NO. 97-18-9

• COOLING SYSTEM—TEMPERATURE GAUGE FLUCTUATION—VEHICLES WITH 4.0L ENGINE
• NOISE—“THUMPING” HEARD FROM WATER PUMP AREA—VEHICLES WITH 4.0L ENGINE

FORD: 1994-97 AEROSTAR, EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE
A “thumping” noise or temperature gauge fluctuation may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by the water pump delivering an uneven flow throughout the engine.

ACTION
Replace water pump and gasket with revised Water Pump (F7PZ-8501-AA) and Gasket (FOTZ-8507-A).

Refer to the appropriate year Aerostar/Ranger/Explorer Service Manual, Section 03-03, for water pump replacement procedure.

PART NUMBER / PART NAME
FOTZ-8507-A / Water Pump Gasket
F7PZ-8501-AA / Water Pump
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 12-05-2007
winks's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jackson, New Jersey
Posts: 4,872
Cooling Fan?

Only because it hasn't been suggested, I'm wondering if part of the problem could be the cooling fan. That would explain the overheating after 15-20 mins of idling, as well as the overheating while under load.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 12-05-2007
Blhde's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 2,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by winks
Only because it hasn't been suggested, I'm wondering if part of the problem could be the cooling fan. That would explain the overheating after 15-20 mins of idling, as well as the overheating while under load.

Maybe, but i drove in the middle of summer with no fan on 90+ degree days. I even used the AC. Never overheated at the light, or in the drive threw idling
for about 10 minutes. However the AC didn't work unless your were moving 10 mph +. Its a pretty stout cooling system.



The brown coolant is hard to overlook as a problem. Even if it means new radiator and heater core to get rid of.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 12-07-2007
Downey's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Muncy, PA
Posts: 8,470
its not the fan ur fluid is brown lessen to these guys they are right flush your system and get the crap out of it. its not a water pump or u would be loosing fluid. go get ur system flushed b4 you really damage ur motor
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 12-08-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 688
Quote:
Originally Posted by winks
Only because it hasn't been suggested, I'm wondering if part of the problem could be the cooling fan. That would explain the overheating after 15-20 mins of idling, as well as the overheating while under load.
Great point!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Heat blower stopped, then started, now stopped heat works nanookc General Technical & Electrical 4 02-17-2015 02:18 PM
94 ranger overheating/no heat problem getFOCUSd2point0 2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech 5 03-05-2014 09:47 PM
2002 Ranger; A/C & Heat Blows Air Thru Defrost Vents Only vsromero General Technical & Electrical 6 05-30-2012 04:36 AM
engine overheating update... now running too cold? iplayloudly General Ford Ranger Discussion 4 05-22-2008 07:27 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:21 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.