runing rich and i cant figure out y - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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Old 10-28-2011
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runing rich and i cant figure out y

my 94 has rencently started to run rich and i thought it might have been th e fuel pump but no luck it still runs rich and has black smoke coming out of the exhaust......please help some one i have no i dea when it comes to these new fuelinjected motors
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Old 10-28-2011
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My first reactions:

*Verify air filter is clean.

* Pull the vacuum hose on the FPR immediately after the engine has been shut off and inspect for the presence of gas. If there is gas in this vac line, the FPR has failed and must be replaced.

*Perform a visual on everything under the hood ensuing it is in proper condition and order. This means, no disconnected electrical connections, abraded and shorting wires, disconnected vac hoses, burned vac hoses, missing vac hoses, cracked/leaking vac hoses, and proper routing/connections, all the usual items that a good visual once over would flag and fix.

*Pull and post the DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes, ie, the "codes"). The first codes of interest would be KOEO (ie, key on, engine off) as these codes must be fixed before moving on to KOER (engine running) and CM (continuous memory). If you have no KOER codes, pull KOER codes and post them as they and their resolution are next in line. Finally, if there are no KOEO and KOER codes, pull and post CM codes, they are the last to be corrected.

You could pull all of these codes during the same service procedure (it's not tough, you should be able to do this and no special tools or fancy training are required), but if you find a KOEO code you may as well stop right there and post all KOEO codes because the ensuing KOER and CM codes aren't of value at this time. The reason for this is, the cause for one code can also trigger other codes, of which those other codes are not a real (problem). Said another way, things work and and to fix you want to follow protocol. As such, when fixing codes, you always want to start with the lowest number code in a group, (group = for example, KOEO). It is possible that fixing that first and lowest number code will clear up and and all other codes, this is why it is important to follow the sequence that I noted (and is per Ford). This is just how it's gotta be done with the Ford EEC-IV engine management system, which is what you have. In a nutshell, the sequence of repair is KOEO, KOER, then CM, and start with the lowest code # in each group.

Hopefully, this get's you started on the road to fixing. The reason I suggested the FPR check is because it's known to be an an item that can fail and cause a significant rich condition like yours (black smoke) abruptly. The test for this is quick and doesn't cost a dime.

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 10-28-2011 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 10-28-2011
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Old 10-28-2011
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Good adder, thanks Ken. Specifically, he needs the hookup in post #2, probably for convenience use the method that enables the CEL to be read, and the three digit EEC-IV codes found in post #11.

*A little side note after looking at that thread, for Rangers in 1995, Ford transitioned from EEC-IV to OBD-II for the engine management system. This means there should be both EEC-IV and OBD-II vehicles floating around out there for that model year. Maybe a mod can do a quick edit to clarify this, and a note that the engine management system type will be found on the sticker on the radiator core support.

*Is there a linky here showing him how to interpret (make sense of) the flashing CEL? We know it works kind of like morse code, but he needs to know it cycles through, reports codes, then tells him that it has ended, and then the cycle of reporting will repeat and repeat, until he turns the key off. He only needs to do it once, maybe twice to verify the results.

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 10-28-2011 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 10-31-2011
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try checking the fuel pressure regulator. it's on the fuel rail and will have a vaccuum line connected to it. with the engine off pull the vaccuum line off and see if any gas is present, if so, it's bad. if you don't see any gas start the engine and pull the line again and plug the vaccuum line the watch to see if any gas comes out of the regulator, it may take up to 2 minutes for this to happen. no gas should ever come out of this port. this is where I would start at this point.
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