Thanks for all the advise.

 

I sometimes use 0W30. Most of the time either 5w20 or 5w30. It's damn cold here. I wouldn't mind some 0 degree weather. I'd probably put shorts on for that.

 

Super-tech 10w-30

 

In the winter, I would use a 0w30 for sure. When it gets that cold, the oil is thicker, and when you start it up, it takes loinger for it to come up to optimal temp, also it taks more time for the motor to recieve the oil from the pan. That means there is an instant where there is very limited oil in the motor.

And your not going to like this, but I put shorts on today for the first time since november lol.

 

Damn you. Well I guess that's somewhat good news because all that weather travels east. So give me a few days and it will warm up..... I hope.

 

Mobil 1. And a decent filter, usually Motorcraft, this time around it's a Bosch.
I change at 7500 miles (LIKE IT SAYS IN THE OWNERS MANUAL)

 

Sounds like Mobile 1 is the prefered oil of RF members.

 

ding ding ding. lol

Though I have been swapping it around to different brand synthetics and I haven't noticed a change in performance or economy so I may start going with the slightly cheaper stuff.

 

I think you would in a higher performance motor, but the fact is, we still drive rangers lol. Ranger + Performance = Fail.

 

PP (Pennzoil Platinum) has gotten the highest UOA marks, even over Mobil1. Plus there was a great concern last year that Mobil1 stopped using premium base stocks and went with more of a group III base with lots of additives.

However, I run neither. I run Rotella Synthetic 5W40, I use it in my project car because my project car has a factory flat tappet camshaft and they pulled ZDDP additive out of all gasoline motor oils, down to less than 1% these days, and it was a great anti-wear additive. Zinc and phosphorous emissions "could" damage your catalytic converter, thus it was removed/limited.

You could buy those boutique oils over the internet toting they have ZDDP, pay a premium price for them and then pay shipping and handling, or you can just go to your local auto store or super store and buy some Rotella T.

Not to mention the cleaning properties of the diesel oil...

I also run it in the Mazda.

 

Do you have any links to places where it shows the UOA specs to prove that? If its better I don't mind switching.

 

Only found a single UOA from a Ranger and its a supercharged 4.0..

Anyways.

PP:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3625/...957b0f99_o.png
http://i329.photobucket.com/albums/l...u06/D69918.jpg

- 07 Civic SI

Miles on unit: 27,065
Miles on oil: 7,065
Oil: PP 5W30

Air filter: Honda
Oil filter: Honda
Makeup: None


ALUMINUM 3
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 6
COPPER 2
LEAD 1
TIN 1
MOLYBDENUM 65
NICKEL 0
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 1
BORON 31
SILICON 9
SODIUM 5
CALCIUM 3221
MAGNESIUM 16
PHOSPHORUS 741
ZINC 900
BARIUM 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 53.7
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 8.38
Flashpoint in °F 400
Fuel % <0.5
Antifreeze % 0.0
Water % 0.0
Insolubles % 0.1
TBN 4.8
TAN
ISO Code

"You happen to be driving a car with one of the best wearing engines ever made under the
hood. If the type of driving you do is not a problem (and so far it doesn't seem to be), then extending your oil
use intervals up to 10,000 miles or beyond is perfectly feasible. Universal averages for this type Honda are
based on 172 samples that have averaged 5400 miles on the oil. The TBN read 4.8, still strong, so this type
oil is good for a longer run. Try 9000 miles for the next sample. Air and oil filtration are excellent and no
contaminants were found. Great engine!"

08 Subaru Legacy
Driving style: Middling. My wife's daily driver. She drives 70 miles a day, so it gets plenty of cruising at speed. Almost all backroads and highways. Occasionally burst of WOT to 4000-5000 rpms, rarely to full redline.

Oil: Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, 3600 miles on it, no make-up added and no consumption noted.

Filtering: PureOne PL14610 oil filter (about 20% taller than the recommended PL14612 filter, but with the same exact specs).

AVO Dry Panel Air Filter cleaned at 9k, seems to be working fairly.

Blackstone Comments: JOSEPH: In this initial analysis copper was the only metal out of line. It comes from brass or bronze parts.
It doesn't necessarily read at a problem level here, but does show some excess wear at corresponding components. Other metals were okay, so we'll monitor copper closely next time. The viscosity was 5W/30,and no gas, moisture, or coolant was found. Low insolubles show good oil filtration and no combustion
issues. Low silicon shows good air filtration. Hopefully copper will drop next time. It may be left over from when the engine was new.

Al 3
Chromium 0
Iron 6
Copper 27
Lead 1
Tin 0
Moly 35
Nickel 1
Manganese 1
Silver 1
Titanium 0
Boron 27
Silicon 11
Sodium 5
Calcium 2797
Magnesium 14
Phosphorous 594
Zinc 681
SUS Visc: 58.9
cST Visc: 9.90
Flashpoint: 375
Antifreeze: 0
Water: 0
Insolubles: .3%


Mobil 1:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...3-09UOARDX.jpg
http://www.rubydist.com/images/OilAnalysis09-01-05.pdf

Toyota Tundra 4.7:
Probably 70% highway driving, 30% stop-n-go traffic.
Time in use ~6 months
Overall pretty pleased. Intend to try to reduce the Si. I thought I had already done so.

Blackstone comments:It's been quite a while since we've seen a sample from your Tundra and wear looks as good as ever! You ran this oil considerably longer than the last that we saw but wear remained pretty low. With wear looking as good as this, we doubt that you'd have a problem going 10,000 miles on the oil if you wanted. No harmful contaminants were found in the sample and the viscosity of the oil read normally. At 80,000 miles we have no problems to report. It looks like you've been taking very good care of this one!
Code:

Mi on oil 8662
Mi on unit 80000
Sample Date 02/7/09
Make up oil 0

Code:

Aluminum 3
Chromium 0
Iron 7
Copper 12
Lead 0
Tin 0
Molybdenum 93
Nickel 1
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 42
Silicon 18
Sodium 6
Calcium 2398
Magnesium 14
Phosphorus 624
Zinc 806
Barium 1

Code:

SUS @ 210 58.3
cSt @ 100C 9.73
Flash 415F
Fuel <.5%
A/F 0
Insol 0.3

04 Honda Civic:

GREG: Heat, humidity, salt air, short trips...sounds like the makings of poor wear, but your Honda isactually looking great. It's handing the environment well, and most metals read right around averages. Theonly thing higher was lead, and this could easily be from a particle streak through the bearings. If so, it willdrop next time. The TBN read 4.3, which is still a strong reading. The oil was in good shape physically,
containing no moisture, fuel, or signs of coolant. The air and oil filters are working well too (see silicon andinsolubles). Nice Civic. Try 5500 miles next time.
03/15/09
Gasoline (Unleaded)
Mobil 1 5W/20
Honda 1.7L 4-cyl
4,507 Miles
ALUMINUM 2
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 9
COPPER 2
LEAD 11
TIN 3
MOLYBDENUM 95
NICKEL 0
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 42
SILICON 11
SODIUM 7
CALCIUM 2420
MAGNESIUM 13
PHOSPHORUS 694
ZINC 829
BARIUM 0
MI/HR on Oil: 4507mi. 7mon run time
MI/HR on Unit: 69,126
Make Up Oil Added: 0
cSt Viscosity @ 100°C 8.77
SUS Viscosity @ 210°F 55
Flashpoint in °F 400
Fuel % <.5
Antifreeze % 0
Water % 0
Insolubles % .2
TBN 4.3


EDIT: Finally found one for Rotella 5W40, in a Subaru engine:

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7975/20081012by6.gif

Here is a good compilation of several UOAs of different oils in the same engine (Motorcraft, Syntec, PP and Mobil Clean):

http://andy.hedin.googlepages.com/Oi...2008-02-24.gif

 

Royal Purple

 

Mobil 1

 

Where can you get the oil analyzed? I would love to get mine analyzed but I think I'd fear the results because I drive my truck like a race car.

 

Mercedez Benz.

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

The collection kit is free everytime, the actual cost of analysis is $22.50. Well worth it though, because they will save your *** and your money. Your oil says a lot about the other components of your vehicle, so they can catch something in the oil before you will feel it in the steering wheel or butt-dyno. They will also tell you the proper oil change intervals for the oil and filter you are using based upon your results.

 

Blackstone labs has even said that a UOA will not detect sludging with oil.
For what the test, and shipping costs, you can change your oil (using an API certified oil) and filter, at the recommended oil change intervals (or sooner) your engine will stay nice and clean, and you won't have to worry about it!

 

I use Mobil 1 fully syn every oil change, I change it every 6 months/3000 miles they usually come together at 6 months/3K But the oil is filthy!....Is this proper, or to be expected? I see allot of people boasting they're respective oil is clean allot of times when changing they're oil.....