well thinking of selling this 04 4.0 5speed manaul ranger ,
after what I went through which I posted here https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-o...p-cost-154261/ now my cluck peddle starting to feel strange a little sticky plus the shifting clunk that I have had for a while coming from some where I thinking of trading it in for a newer vehicle, the funny thing is I bought this truck and love it a few year back for the intention of using it for off road and to be totally honest the only time I have actually used 4 wheel drive is when it snowed I haven't token this truck off road yet in the almost 3 years of owner ship.
not sure what this truck is worth also not sure whether to sell privately or trade in for newer.
Does anyone live in the BC lower mainland area know of a place where they sell trucks that are not a scam lol?

 

Sell it privately

And buy another vehicle privately, you can have a used vehicle inspected, Ford dealers offer that as does GM and most other car makers, costs $150-$200
If seller won't allow an inspection, walk away, vehicle was not for you

If you shop for vehicle at an independent car lot then also have it inspected, if they say no then walk away.

Car dealers are not "scammers" they are "in business", same as you charge for your labor/knowledge they do too
You pay for the convenience of having a selection of vehicles at one location, you pay for "trade-in" option, you pay for "loan" options, you pay for extended warranties, as it SHOULD BE in any business.

There are private and public(car dealers) sellers that misrepresent vehicles to novice buyers, thats just the way everything works, lol.
I guess they would be "scammers", but as always, "Fool me once shame on you, fool me TWICE shame on ME"
If you have had it happen to you then don't let it happen again, get an inspection

Inspection might be free, even if vehicle is in great condition there will usually be some minor issues, and with the inspection paper in hand you can usually negotiate at least a few hundred dollars off the price so inspection is FREE at that point, and money well spent

 

the big thing is I am not sure what my truck is worth

 

Look on local craigslist, it will have private and public sellers ASKING PRICE, what a used vehicle is "worth" is its SELLING PRICE, and only the buyer can determine that

Also Auto/Truck Trader website might be helpful in determining asking price

 

Ok so .. I am not sure if I mentioned his already but I didn't realize that when I bought this truck it was a rebuild I thought rebuilt engine but on my reg it says rebuilt which is entirly different .


so knowing that the value is now allot lower I decided to deal with the devil I know and took it to get the clutch work done,
Tues got it back Thurs morning drove to work noticed oil check oil on exhaust and in between trans and engine they told me they replaced rear main seal ,slave cylinder M5od tower cap clutch/ and bearing . I called the shop Friday morning the guy first asked what type of fluid I told him pretty sure engine oil he then said that they did the clutch , I then reminded him they also replaced rear main seal he basically groan told me they are swamped cant get me in until the 11th June . I drove to work last night looked under my truck then checked the engine oil I am down about 1 litre ( about 1 qt) I am thinking that this oil is going to smoke my clutch that is if the oil doesn't catch on fire first I have less then 90 Km on this clutch.
a side question new clutch releases maybe 1-2 inches from floor is this normal for a new clutch.

 

Yes, Rebuilt or Salvage Titles do lower resale quite a bit
A bought a pickup at an auction with Clean title, thought it drove "funny" when I picked it up, was doing some work under it and found it had different cab(different paint) and some frame work.
Took it back and got full refund for it, Auction house guaranty's titles, cost me about $300 in all but still better than eating a salvage title, and the person selling it now had to explain how he got it and why he "didn't know" about the work


The rear main seal is between engine and flywheel so shouldn't effect clutch disc.
But don't drive it much because leak WILL get worse.

Rangers use a self-adjusting pressure plate, SAC, these allowed the use of internal slaves, which are far better than external slaves were, but that's another argument, lol.

So with SAC, pedal travel should remain the same thru out the life of the clutch disc.
New systems may still have some air in the hydraulic system so pedal can disengage and engage close to the floor or be hard to get into first when stopped, just needs to be bled again


In the old days you had to manually adjust the clutch travel as the clutch disc got thinner, people didn't always do this in a timely manner so they would wear out clutch discs much faster as it would start slipping well before they finally got around to adjusting it, yes, not every one is a DIYer, lol.
The SAC pressure plate has springs inside that adjust each time you press down on the clutch pedal(actually every time you release it), this keeps the pressure plate and flywheel distance constant, relative to clutch disc thickness, great invention.

Self adjusting pressure plates can't be reused UNLESS they are reset, this requires a hydraulic press to push down on the plate while the springs are reset to full open for the new clutch disc thickness

 

when I first got this truck the pedal was close to the top now it is around 1-2 inches from the floor being old school at first I thougght the system would be the same but now finding out that it is SAC not sure where the peddle should be. they told me that actually my old clutch was pretty good but I told them to replace it since they are already there .
well I am glad to find out that engine oil wont get on the disk at least that is a relief but I did park the truck and am using a different SUV until they fix this . I am hoping that I wont have any problems like them telling mwe I have tio fork out more money I just spent just under 1700 CAD for Clutch kit W/ bearing, slave cyclinder, M5OD shift tower cap REar main seal ( which this truck never ever leaked a drop of oil since I have owned it ) and about 8 hrs labour including the resurvicing of flywheel. oh and apparently the engine was missing one of the dowels which they made a new one and installed. gave me some story that with out this dowel problems could happen, I never heard of that before I would thing that once every thing is aligned and bolted up it would be all good but I didn't want to take that chance.



funny thing when I was looking at the sticker on the door it showed a ( I think J) under drive train saying this was an Automatic . which is when I actually checked into the rebuild thing

 

finally got my truck back runs good they replaced the rear main seal with an OEM one because apparently the other one didn't seal properly .
when I got my truck back I drove into work and noticed coolant under my truck not allot but enough for me to notice I popped the hood and notice it is coming from the neck below the rad cap is there a fix for that or do I have to buy a new rad and for the life of me why are all the radiators plastic.

also I have this kind of Whining sound( idle or driving) that I cannot place where it is coming from not sure it is the the belt ( was told that my water pump pulley is bent that story I wont get into) or possibly my alternator whining if it is the Alternator can I just replace the brushes.
In all my years of driving I don't ever remember hearing an alternator whine.

 

Plastic rads are better than the metal ones, unless you get a leak, you could repair the metal ones, also have them cleaned.
But cheaper to buy a new plastic rad that to have metal one tanked and cleaned..........which is why there are plastic radiators now, cost less

Check overflow hose, could be leaking from there.

High leak point won't lose much coolant but will suck air in as engine cools down, instead of sucking coolant back in from overflow tank.
But because leak is high you will never over heat from that.

Whine from accessory is usually a bearing.
Unplug the 3 wire connector on the alternator and start the engine, see if whine is gone.
If not then its the bearings, if it is gone you could try replacing the brushes and regulator.
But.............next time you are driving at night see if head lights dim at idle, turn on fan to high as well, use all the electrics to see if alternator can still produce voltage at idle to run the vehicle.
If head lights dim then a field has failed in the alternator, there are 3 fields, so alternator can only produce 2/3s of its rated power.
That requires a full rebuild to repair

But I would just hit wrecking yard and get a used alternator

 

thanks . the leak does appear to be just below the over flow hose didn't think about that .

 

Dam I should have mention this before hat I do have a code but it is p0457 evap code usually I get the gas cap lose but I have replaced it a little later I get the check engine with that code. now I am wondering if maybe it could be a vacuum leak making that whining sound.
P0457

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0457_ford.html
P0457

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0457_ford.html

 

EVAP system uses a pulsed vacuum so won't effect engine operation if there is an air leak in the gas tank.

Most common cause for EVAP system codes, if gas cap is OK, is the filler tube and vent tube, they can rust or rot, so there is a hole, and gas tank can no longer hold pressure.

When you stop to get gas and open the gas cap you should hear a rush of air, thats the EVAP system's negative pressure in the gas tank.

If you haven't heard that noise in awhile then gas tank can't hold pressure, has a leak

You can use a short hose and damp towel to maybe hear where a leak is
Remove gas cap
Wrap towel/rag around hose and put it in tank opening
Blow into the hose, tank should hold pressure
If not then the air should be escaping and you can hear where
DO NOT USE AIR COMPRESSOR for this test you WILL blow off fittings
Your lungs can generate about 2psi of pressure which is safe

 

I don't remember ever hearing any back pressure from the tank when filling up and there is a bit of rust under my truck so I am thinking that is probably what is going on.


A guy showed up at my door yesterday and offered me 4k for my truck and even though I just spent about 3400 on it I am a little tempted to go for it, the thing is that I actually like my truck ( would prefer a full size but fuel costs and my parking stall is small) because it is fairly plain Jane and 5 speed standard. I told the guy I would think about it .

 

$4,000 is a little low for 2004 4.0l Ranger, but I don't know full details :)

 

that's what I am thinking also plus I do need my truck to get to work still . I still have part of me telling me to keep it and work on it more .
maybe look for a taller tire like 31" for some strange reason my Speedo reads 10 Kmh faster , I didn't confirm this until a few months back when I was driving and the sign on the road showed I was doing 10 Km'h slower at first I thought that it was the signs but then when I had to use a different vehicle those same signs speed reading exactly the same as the Speedo in the vehicle I was driving.

in the older days this usually meant that there was a tire size change like someone had taller tires then switched back to smaller ones but in my case I ought it because my truck has no lift.