Hey guys I'm about to go look at this 2000 Explorer 5.0L 2wd tomorrow to purchase as a donor for my 99 ranger 4x4.

2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bau

I have been researching this for years now and I decided to wait for a whole parts car as this seems much easier than piecing it together. Bob (rwenzing) has been a huge help in my research over the years but I wanted to hear from someone who has a 98-00 ranger with this swap. I know this year engine with my ranger has the same return-less fuel system and same psi fuel pressure regulator etc so the engine install should be relatively easy. I am just curious, with this Explorer being 2wd, will the ECU work in my truck or will I need a 4wd ECU? Other than that, my concern is what to do about the transmission. I'm 4wd with a 4" superlift (if that makes a difference) and I am not sure if it would be easier to do an M5ODR2 with the BW4406 T-case or to swap over to the 4R70W. Also, do you think it would be easy to utilize an electric shift 4406 or should I stick with a manual shift? If I go manual, how do I get my dash lights for the 4wd to sell work? Any additional info from anyone who has done the 5.0 swap on a 98-00 ranger 4wd would be greatly appreciated. Especially before I go buy this Explorer tomorrow! Lol

 

The 5.0l Computer will want to "see" an automatic trans connected, but I would recommend sending it out to a programmer and having the auto software removed so you can use it with manual trans
Finding a 5.0l manual trans computer is possible, just hard to find

Programmer can also delete PATS if you want.
PATS will require you to either recut Explorer keys to fit Ranger(if possible) or replace Ranger ignition key cylinder(and door cylinders) with Explorer cylinders(if possible).

Or....after system is installed in the Ranger a mobile locksmith with Ford software on a laptop can ADD the Ranger keys to the new computers memory.
You can only do this in the vehicle and can't start vehicle until it is done
Although.........you could wrap the end of you Ranger PATS key with foil, then put the Explorer PATS key next to the key cylinder and try to start engine.
PATS check is only done at start up, once engine is running PATS is off-line
Your Ranger key has a PATS ID and if not disabled(covered in foil) the PATS ID from the explorer key would be garbled causing a no start.
Then you could drive to locksmith to have keys added, much cheaper

If you get a 1997 and up M5OD-R2 with transfer case from a 4x4 F-150 with 4.2l V6 it will be almost plug n play in the Ranger
1997 and up 4.2l V6 has same trans bolt pattern as 5.0l, small block windsor
And in 1997 the M5OD-R2 shifter was moved farther back so almost an exact match to M5OD-R1 shifter placement in Rangers

1999 Ranger used GEM module for 4WD control, computer was not involved, so electric shift transfer case will be plug n play.

You can of course use manual shift transfer case, harder to find but way more reliable than electric shift
The 4WD lights wouldn't work, actually they would flash since GEM wouldn't be connected to an electric shift motor, so you would need to pull those bulbs.

If you go with an automatic trans then you would need to change steering columns, or use a custom floor shifter.
Also change the pedals, don't think the explorer pedals will work, need to get Ranger pedals.

 

The only thing at this point holding me up is the transmission/T-case. I am leaning toward keeping my truck a 5 speed with the F150 M5ODR2 and 4406 electric shift T-case. I can get the T-case for $65 at the local yard but manual ones are more expensive for some reason.

 

Manual ones are harder to find so more expensive

M5OD-R2 must be from a 4.2l V6, 4WD
None of the modular ford V8 transmissions will bolt to 5.0l

1996 was last year of the 302/5.0l in a 4WD truck and shifter is farther forward, you can use it, just need to cut new hole in floor and bend shifter arm so it doesn't hit the dash
Explorers and Mountaineers still used the 302/5.0l but they were all automatics I don't think manual trans was even an option after 1996

 

Just picked this up today. Already sourced an M5ODR2 from a 2000 F150 4.2L 4x4 as well as a manual BW4406 T-case.

2000 Mercury Mountaineer

 

Good stuff, should be a nice V8 Ranger conversion

 

Just curious how your swap is going? I did pretty much the same swap except my donor was 97 mountaineer. I wanted to use the ranger transfer case but the cost was nuts. adaptor plus tranny work. I used the awd transfer case but then I was told somehow I don't have a true park, the first night I parked it in driveway I woke up to find tail end of truck in street..lol. she is still a work in progress, 4high and low bulbs need to come out and tach needs wire moved I was told..

 

Wow! That's not good lol. At least it wasn't in the street though haha. Did you have to run return fuel lines since you used a 97 explorer engine? Well as of right now, I've parked the mountaineer and am just waiting winter out before taking my Ranger out of service since it's my only 4x4 and I need it for when it snows. I'm hoping around March/April to pull the tired 3.0L out.

Also wondering about using the mountaineer rear axle so I will have disc brakes. Although that means I will need to re-gear the front as well since the rear is 3:73. I'm thinking that might be better than the 4:10's for gas mileage. Can anyone chime in here on this matter?

 

Ya, I used an adaptor form summit to connect donor return line to my fuel filler neck. I was told the 3.73 are better for mpg than the 4.10 plus your ranger has 7.5 diff and your donor should have 8.8? I stayed with my ranger diff and so far so good and less $.

 

Gotcha, thanks! I am planning to run the 3:73 because the 4:10's keep my RPM's at 2600-2700 on the highway right now. 3:73 should knock it down slightly. I'm hoping maybe 2400-ish. With the V8 I should have plenty of power to turn the the 33's.

Also, here is how to fix the tach. It's as simple as relocating one of the wires for the gauge cluster.

Here's how you modify your Ranger tachometer for V-8 use:

1) Get your dash apart and disconnect the cluster
2) If you have a EVTM turn to the Instrument cluster section
3) Locate Pin 8 on wire connector C216 (Black/Yellow Wire)
4) Use a very small flathead screwdriver to release the pin from the connector housing
5) Find Connector C214 (largest of the 3 for cluster)
6) Install the wire removed from C216 in to slot 16 on C214. This slot is currently vacant.
7) Put everything back together and fire it up. You're all done.

 

Ok, I'm seeing lots of guys on here wanting a v8 in their rangers and some will put the whole project on hold til they find a set of headers that will fit. My 302 has factory manifolds which r pretty skinny and I wonder if a set of shorty headers would help or just look good? My motor is efi and all exhaust is factory so I'd have to make an adaptor for egr which I've been told helps keep combustion temp down, mind u I drive the girl 5,000 or less a yr....Happy holidays to everyone

 

hey, thanks for info on tach. since you are doing almost the same swap as me, if you are going efi you might run into some wiring issues as I did. I got a set of wiring and vac diagram manual for both vehicles to figure out the 42 pin connector because not all wires are a match? I had to cut and splice a few, and move some wire to different locations because the correct wire on other side of c115 was in another location. I wouldn't doubt if something or other is still not hooked up lol. the books didn't show every circuit which really sucks...if you need more info just ask...good luck

 

Thanks for the info! I have a buddy who is a Ford mechanic helping me if I get stuck so I'm hoping all goes smoothly.

 

So here is a question for you guys. I am looking to pick up an M5ODR2 pretty quick. I read that the M5R2 from a 97-03 4.2L will work but somewhere not long ago I ready 99-03 is what I need. Can someone clear this up please? I don't want to get one from a 97 or 98 for it to not work. Thanks!

 

'97 and up M5OD-R2 had the shifter moved back so fits in Rangers.

1997 and up 4.2l V6 had same bolt pattern as Windsor small block(5.0l V8) although you do need to drill out bellhousing bolt holes about 1/8" because 5.0l bolts are slightly larger diameter than 4.2l bolts

And of course 2WD or 4WD transmissions are different so you need to match that.

Not sure what the difference would be in '97/'98 M5R2 vs '99 and up, only thing that comes to mind is speedometer cable hook up, which was removed around that time in Rangers, but your '99 Ranger uses rear axle speed sensor so a non issue

 

I have a 97 with a 98 mountaineer 5.0, mustang H.O camshaft, and the t5 manual backing it. The biggest issue I ran into was the pats system, but being you a 99 and already have that pats in your ranger, pop the passenger air bag. You need the pats box behind the air bag, the computer ,the key the ignition cylinder and door locks if you wanna keep the same key. If you have the whole explorer the engine will be a direct drop in after the oe drive terrain is removed. Take the engine mounts and all, now if your going to a manual it's gonna get a little tricky, you need the engine and the whole wiring harness along with it, the one 7 or 8 mm bolt takes it all, now once you have the 5.0 out take and put the transmission in neutral and carefully remove the nutral safty switch from the trans, you can glue the white ring to the black housing before removal to ensure it stays in neutral. That'll let it run with the manual but it'll never be right, you'll have codes for the transmission shift solenoids and a constant check engine light. Put the engine in you may have to drill a hole in the mount perch you may not my experience was with the old style frame. Put the pats box in place of yours, now if you wanna put in remote start, remove your transponder and place the key inside of the transponder ring tape it in the ring and place the transponder under the dash, key issue solved. Everything is bolt and go from there other then the radiator, I know the older frame won't take a newer radiator without minor modification

 

That's right, shifter has to move up on the m5od, I put an s10 tailshaft on a mustang wc t5 box, set the shifter in the perfect place

 

Ok great thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure 97-03 M5R2 would work all the same.

 

My 5.0 had 346,000 when I put it in my ranger, I've put 43,000 on it since it was , reringed, got forged pistons, new bearings, an E303 camshaft, the heads ported with new guides and springs, 1.7 roller rockers , and new oil pump, but the crosshatch on the cylinder wall was still there and it's all in spec as of 43,000 miles ago, still running strong after the 25th shot. Mid 12s hit with 100 hp shot of nitrous. Yes only mid 12s, i have a bad issue with the *** hooking up at the moment.

 

The explorer AWD transfer case has a viscous coupler and if the front axle is not engaged it will creep on a slope. I found this out when I had the front drive shaft out of my Explorer to get rebuilt.