Aside from being unstable at high speeds, how fast will a 2.3 duratec ranger with 4.10 rear axle and M5ODr1 go, I've gone up to 117 then had to stop due to road getting ready to twist

 

i call BS on the 117, rangers are limited to 100 or so

 

Its actually 90-95MPH in most Ranger computers, called the Speed Limiter, all engine computers have these, not a Ranger or Ford thing, it cuts down fuel flow, doesn't cut it off completely

With larger tire diameter you can get to 100MPH which computer thinks is 90MPH because speedometer is off 10MPH at that speed

There is also an RPM limiter, usually 3,000RPMs when stopped, and then just above max RPM for the engine when moving, although you will usually float the valves at that time anyway

If your going downhill then not much the computer can do about max speed, lol, so have at it

Without the speed limiter a stock Ranger could do close to 120MPH from what I have read when people disable speed signal or reprogram computer and eliminate the speed limiter

I think my tires are only rated for 90MPH in any case so....................I won't be testing my limiter

To answer the question:
4.10 axle
28" tires
.79 ratio(overdrive on the M5R1)
engine RPMs at 4,700

You would be going 120MPH

In 4th gear, 1:1 ratio, engine would be at 5,900RPM at 120MPH

Calculator here: https://www.crawlpedia.com/rpm_gear_calculator.htm

These calculations are based on gears, RPMs and ratios so engine size doesn't matter

 

Sorry for confusion, I have the speed limiter and rev limit removed I sat at about 3800 rpm 5th gear using a flashpaq super chip to remove limits

 

I have larger tires 1.65 ft diameter p225, street not sure on rating I'll have to look, I'm gonna custom tune the engine and no valve float yet, never went above 6500 rpm

 

Sorry wrong tire size I'll get the info when I get back into town Saturday

 

30" tires in 5th(.79), and 4.10 rear axle at 3,800RPM = 105mph

Max Horse Power on the 2.3l Duratec happens at 5,000RPM, on 2001-2003, 2004 and up was at 5,200rpm
Best torque at 3,750rpm
Torque gets you up to speed, HP keeps you at that speed

 

90 (on the speedo) is all I can go without a tune.

Honestly (I can't believe I'm saying this), I can't see the need to go faster in my Ranger.

My Civic maybe

 

I dropped in a Mazda 6 2.0 duratec, put the 2.3 crank and pistons in, new forged Piston heads, new rings, pretty much new engine, crank is good, new forged rods extra 15mm thick from stock, gonna drop in my turbo charger and tune from there, at Dyno I make 164 HP 160 ft lbs at peak
Peak hp 5350
Peak ft/lbs 3100

 

I want to race and beat all the semi tuner civics and all the ricers

 

You need to add/build a SuperBird nose for your Ranger, lol

https://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/...-nose-cone.jpg

The 4ft high spoiler is optional: https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media...8026660756.jpg

A Rangerbird

 

I'm sorry but I do not have a rolls Royce 12 cylnder I have an amazing duratec 2.3 that was below sea level when doing it where there's less wind do to walls on the right if freeway

 

I'll try and make a model and see how it does in the water tank with coloring, and try and make a carbon fiber or fiberglass node cone but how do I do the new cooling ?

 

Nose cone has a large opening in the under side for air flow thru radiator

You can also install a reverse hood scoop to pull air out of engine bay and an air deflector under radiator to push air up into the engine bay

 

Ok, I got 13.8 psi boost working and street tuned I'm making 238 HP with 201 ft lbs torque,

 

I'm gonna play around with the tuneinv for a week and come back when I start of the nose cone I'll start the pictures and videos and send links, I want this to be my racer as I already have a Lima 2.5 and 4l sohc ranger

 

Without the rev limit and speed limit, and assuming perfect engine to rev where ever, with the stick fuel pump and stock intake system, what's the maximum rpm the duratec 2.3 2001-3 will reach before either fuel or air can't be pushed in anymore

 

Dropped a Shelby GT 5.2 525 hp engine in the front of my Ranger, for speed, and a 2017 V-10 3 valve in the bed for torque. Simple swap...took 7 hours, roll of Gorilla Tape, 2 bottles of Gorilla Glue, sawzall and adjustable wrench, about $18 bucks of assorted galvanized hardware, and fresh rear blinker fluid. Figured it would be good for 187 to 194 mph. Unfortunately upon hitting gas pedal, only got 17 1/2 feet...torque from the V-10 twisted the entire rear frame behind the cab 90 degrees.
Threw the whole kit n kaboodle in the trash can.

Grumpaw

 

All engines are self powered air pumps, to maintain the self powered part they need to be able to SUCK in a new air:fuel mix on every intake stroke, which means that on the intake stroke there must be a negative pressure inside the cylinder that SUCKS in the new air:fuel mix.

2001-2003 Mazda L 23NS is the the 2.3l Duratec, max HP is at 5,050rpm so I would think around 6,500rpm you would hit 0 Vacuum in the intake, valves floating, so no new fuel can be pulled in
And at this time compression is virtually 0 psi, so no power increase

Unless something is broken no factory engine would run out of fuel or air before it hit 0 Vacuum

I would check at Mazda Forums, as the Mazda L 23EW was, of course, used more in Mazda cars and they will have more specific data.

Fords 2001-2003 version was a little different than the 2004 and up, it had IMRC added so not sure if that would effect vacuum at higher RPMs


Once you can establish maximum RPM then you can use gear ratios and tire size to establish max speed at that RPM

 

Sorry my question forgot to included 0 valve float regardless I was just curious how fast the stock pump would go before fuel couldn't be pushed in any faster and the pump and jets are WOT

 

You would never reach that point with normally aspirated engine, and you could go to larger injectors with a turbo charger and still never reach the limits of the stock fuel pump

Ranger fuel pumps are rated at about 100 LPH which is OK up to 300HP

 

Ok thank you