4x4 problems
#1
4x4 problems
So, my son's 99 4x4 shot craps. The front end would not lock into 4wd. I put it up on jack stands, and with a little wigging of the half shafts got both wheels to turn at the same time. When i took it for a test drive, there were a couple of loud clunks and some jerking of the front end. I shifted back into 2wd, and stopped to flip the hubs (we had swapped out the pvh for manual locking hubs a couple of years ago) to free, and the passenger side hub came off in my hand.
If I have to replace the hubs, a) should I replace with the vacuum hubs, or non-vacuum hubs with new manual locking hubs b) how difficult is it to replace the half-shafts?
Thanks
If I have to replace the hubs, a) should I replace with the vacuum hubs, or non-vacuum hubs with new manual locking hubs b) how difficult is it to replace the half-shafts?
Thanks
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
You should have a Dana 35 SLA on your 1998 Ranger 4x4
Good look at it here: The Ford Ranger/Explorer Dana 35 SLA 4x4 Front Axle
Axle removal steps here: How To: Replace 1998-2011 Ford Ranger CV Shaft
Not easy but not all that hard
No, do not use PVH it was a bad system, Ford used it starting in 1998 and by late 1999 was changing over to Live Axle because of problems with PVH
This is what you should have on there now: 1998-2000 Ford Ranger Rugged Ridge (AVM) Locking Hubs
There was only one maker of these, as far as I know
Good look at it here: The Ford Ranger/Explorer Dana 35 SLA 4x4 Front Axle
Axle removal steps here: How To: Replace 1998-2011 Ford Ranger CV Shaft
Not easy but not all that hard
No, do not use PVH it was a bad system, Ford used it starting in 1998 and by late 1999 was changing over to Live Axle because of problems with PVH
This is what you should have on there now: 1998-2000 Ford Ranger Rugged Ridge (AVM) Locking Hubs
There was only one maker of these, as far as I know
#3
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Not seeing that on my search: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AVM-470-loc...-/183000703017
Google: avm 470 locking hubs
Also sold as: Rugged Ridge 15001.70
Seen here: http://www.ruggedridge.com/manual-lo...-15001-70.html
Google: avm 470 locking hubs
Also sold as: Rugged Ridge 15001.70
Seen here: http://www.ruggedridge.com/manual-lo...-15001-70.html
#5
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Member here is selling some of these hubs: https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine...-trans-153776/
#7
So I just heard back from the shop. They want $250 a piece for the front hubs and $300 for the install. All three auto parts places carry the hub assembly $139 each, and I found the place above has the pair for $100.95.
Am i missing something with these. I understand that some parts are supposedly of a higher quality, but twice as much, or 4 times as much?
Either way, I am bringing it home to do the work.
Am i missing something with these. I understand that some parts are supposedly of a higher quality, but twice as much, or 4 times as much?
Either way, I am bringing it home to do the work.
#8
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
???
Those are wheel bearings, while they are different between 2WD and 4WD they are not part of the 4WD manual locking hubs.
If front wheels are "loose" then you need to replace the wheel bearings
And price would be different between RABS and 4WABS models, i.e. with or without sensors and tone rings
Yes there are cheaper and more expensive parts for just about anything, vehicles included.
Best thing is to look at reviews if there are any.
"Name Brands" are also popular with some people and others don't care.
Those are wheel bearings, while they are different between 2WD and 4WD they are not part of the 4WD manual locking hubs.
If front wheels are "loose" then you need to replace the wheel bearings
And price would be different between RABS and 4WABS models, i.e. with or without sensors and tone rings
Yes there are cheaper and more expensive parts for just about anything, vehicles included.
Best thing is to look at reviews if there are any.
"Name Brands" are also popular with some people and others don't care.
#9
Yeah I have some posted for sale. I converted to a live front axle so I don't need them anymore. I had a 3rd as a spare. The replacement hubs for the hub locker style are much more expensive. I have had one of these go out on me and take out one of my hub lockers. The live axle hubs from a 95 ford explorer also work, however you'll need the cv joints if you are going to go that route instead. I got mine out of an expo with 100k miles on them. Timkens are considered an oem replacement, skf is always a good brand but cost a bit more money.
#10
???
Those are wheel bearings, while they are different between 2WD and 4WD they are not part of the 4WD manual locking hubs.
If front wheels are "loose" then you need to replace the wheel bearings
And price would be different between RABS and 4WABS models, i.e. with or without sensors and tone rings
Yes there are cheaper and more expensive parts for just about anything, vehicles included.
Best thing is to look at reviews if there are any.
"Name Brands" are also popular with some people and others don't care.
Those are wheel bearings, while they are different between 2WD and 4WD they are not part of the 4WD manual locking hubs.
If front wheels are "loose" then you need to replace the wheel bearings
And price would be different between RABS and 4WABS models, i.e. with or without sensors and tone rings
Yes there are cheaper and more expensive parts for just about anything, vehicles included.
Best thing is to look at reviews if there are any.
"Name Brands" are also popular with some people and others don't care.
I do understand that I will need some sort of hub for the 4wd portion. I was planning on buying another set of the Rugged Ridge, which is what is on there now.
One last question, how do I tell if the front axles need to be replaced?
Not trying to be a PITA, just trying to figure out what I need to do to get my kid his truck back, and more importantly, my wife her car back (he has her car at school while I fix his truck).
Thanks
#11
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
I think we are talking about two different things.
Wheel bearings are a self contained unit in your year, but nothing to do with locking hubs, Vacuum control or live axle.
They need to be for a 1999 Ranger 4x4, also need to to have ABS sensors if you have 4WABS.
These do wear out but wheel would be wobbly on that side if that was the case, the wheel is bolted to the wheel bearing unit.
The axle just slides thru the center of this unit, on 4x4s
Then on 2000 and earlier Ranger 4x4's you have the locking hubs, in 1999 they were originally Vacuum operated, but yours has been changed to Rugged Ridge, this has nothing to do with wheel bearings or axle shafts.
Live axle is altogether different, 2001 and up Rangers, so no not the same parts
The axle shafts are CV joints covered with a rubber sleeve, if the sleeves are torn then axle shaft on that side should probably be replaced.
You can run the truck in 4high with the Hubs UnLocked, listen for axle noise
Then lock the hubs, both sides, and repeat
If only one side is Locked then there WILL BE noises
You said the locking hub came off in your hand, so my guess would be it was broken and thats where the noise came from
Wheel bearings are a self contained unit in your year, but nothing to do with locking hubs, Vacuum control or live axle.
They need to be for a 1999 Ranger 4x4, also need to to have ABS sensors if you have 4WABS.
These do wear out but wheel would be wobbly on that side if that was the case, the wheel is bolted to the wheel bearing unit.
The axle just slides thru the center of this unit, on 4x4s
Then on 2000 and earlier Ranger 4x4's you have the locking hubs, in 1999 they were originally Vacuum operated, but yours has been changed to Rugged Ridge, this has nothing to do with wheel bearings or axle shafts.
Live axle is altogether different, 2001 and up Rangers, so no not the same parts
The axle shafts are CV joints covered with a rubber sleeve, if the sleeves are torn then axle shaft on that side should probably be replaced.
You can run the truck in 4high with the Hubs UnLocked, listen for axle noise
Then lock the hubs, both sides, and repeat
If only one side is Locked then there WILL BE noises
You said the locking hub came off in your hand, so my guess would be it was broken and thats where the noise came from
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