5 speed hard to shift
5 speed hard to shift
I recently started having problems with my 5 speed transmission; it's become very hard to shift. It started after driving on the highway for about 45 minutes at 110-120 km/hr. When I exited, and came to a stop light it was hard to shift into 1st, and when I got to work it was almost impossible to shift into reverse. It was fine when I left work, but started again when I got off the highway going home.
After this, it was fine for a while, then happened a couple more times, but not as bad.
Now it's happened again, but is really bad, to the point that it's hard getting it into any gear.
I had the slave cylinder replaced a few months ago and have only driven it about 500km since. Anyone else have this issue, or any ideas as to what it could be?
After this, it was fine for a while, then happened a couple more times, but not as bad.
Now it's happened again, but is really bad, to the point that it's hard getting it into any gear.
I had the slave cylinder replaced a few months ago and have only driven it about 500km since. Anyone else have this issue, or any ideas as to what it could be?
Year of the Ranger?
If shifting into 1st or Reverse when stopped is the issue then you have air in the clutch's hydraulic system.
Check reservoir to make sure it is full
Then bleed the system and refill reservoir.
The Slave needs to expand fully to pull pressure plate away from Flywheel, this releases the Clutch disc so it can spin at a different RPM than the flywheel/engine
When you are stopped that means the Clutch disc must go down to 0 RPMs for your to engage 1st or Reverse, or 2, 3, 4, or 5, lol
If flywheel/engine is at 700RPM(idle) and ANY PART is rubbing on the clutch disc it makes it very very hard for shifter syncronizer to slow clutch disc down to 0 RPM to match rear wheel RPM, which is 0 RPM(stopped)
If there is air in the slave, line or master then slave can not expand fully, so clutch disc rubs on flywheel.
When moving and shifting into the other gears the RPM matching is easier but you still may notice it is a little harder to "push/pull" shifter into a gear, but nothing like when stopped.
Simple test is to have engine off(0 RPMs) and shift into 1st and Reverse, if it shifts OK then problem is clutch system not transmission.
If bleeding fixes problem but it comes back then you have a leak in the system, may need to replace Master, not hard to do, and not too expensive
Also check transmission fluid level, most 1990 and newer Rangers used the M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, this used ATF(yes automatic transmission fluid)
If shifting into 1st or Reverse when stopped is the issue then you have air in the clutch's hydraulic system.
Check reservoir to make sure it is full
Then bleed the system and refill reservoir.
The Slave needs to expand fully to pull pressure plate away from Flywheel, this releases the Clutch disc so it can spin at a different RPM than the flywheel/engine
When you are stopped that means the Clutch disc must go down to 0 RPMs for your to engage 1st or Reverse, or 2, 3, 4, or 5, lol
If flywheel/engine is at 700RPM(idle) and ANY PART is rubbing on the clutch disc it makes it very very hard for shifter syncronizer to slow clutch disc down to 0 RPM to match rear wheel RPM, which is 0 RPM(stopped)
If there is air in the slave, line or master then slave can not expand fully, so clutch disc rubs on flywheel.
When moving and shifting into the other gears the RPM matching is easier but you still may notice it is a little harder to "push/pull" shifter into a gear, but nothing like when stopped.
Simple test is to have engine off(0 RPMs) and shift into 1st and Reverse, if it shifts OK then problem is clutch system not transmission.
If bleeding fixes problem but it comes back then you have a leak in the system, may need to replace Master, not hard to do, and not too expensive
Also check transmission fluid level, most 1990 and newer Rangers used the M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, this used ATF(yes automatic transmission fluid)
Last edited by RonD; Jan 3, 2018 at 11:03 AM.
Also, if you go though Ron's test's and you still can't find the problem, consider the needle bearing in the end of the crank.
If they become dry, they can start binding on the trans input shaft and cause the intermittent symptoms you're having.
Assuming that they were checked when you did the slave.
If they become dry, they can start binding on the trans input shaft and cause the intermittent symptoms you're having.
Assuming that they were checked when you did the slave.
Year of the Ranger?
If shifting into 1st or Reverse when stopped is the issue then you have air in the clutch's hydraulic system.
Check reservoir to make sure it is full
Then bleed the system and refill reservoir.
The Slave needs to expand fully to pull pressure plate away from Flywheel, this releases the Clutch disc so it can spin at a different RPM than the flywheel/engine
When you are stopped that means the Clutch disc must go down to 0 RPMs for your to engage 1st or Reverse, or 2, 3, 4, or 5, lol
If flywheel/engine is at 700RPM(idle) and ANY PART is rubbing on the clutch disc it makes it very very hard for shifter syncronizer to slow clutch disc down to 0 RPM to match rear wheel RPM, which is 0 RPM(stopped)
If there is air in the slave, line or master then slave can not expand fully, so clutch disc rubs on flywheel.
When moving and shifting into the other gears the RPM matching is easier but you still may notice it is a little harder to "push/pull" shifter into a gear, but nothing like when stopped.
Simple test is to have engine off(0 RPMs) and shift into 1st and Reverse, if it shifts OK then problem is clutch system not transmission.
If bleeding fixes problem but it comes back then you have a leak in the system, may need to replace Master, not hard to do, and not too expensive
Also check transmission fluid level, most 1990 and newer Rangers used the M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, this used ATF(yes automatic transmission fluid)
If shifting into 1st or Reverse when stopped is the issue then you have air in the clutch's hydraulic system.
Check reservoir to make sure it is full
Then bleed the system and refill reservoir.
The Slave needs to expand fully to pull pressure plate away from Flywheel, this releases the Clutch disc so it can spin at a different RPM than the flywheel/engine
When you are stopped that means the Clutch disc must go down to 0 RPMs for your to engage 1st or Reverse, or 2, 3, 4, or 5, lol
If flywheel/engine is at 700RPM(idle) and ANY PART is rubbing on the clutch disc it makes it very very hard for shifter syncronizer to slow clutch disc down to 0 RPM to match rear wheel RPM, which is 0 RPM(stopped)
If there is air in the slave, line or master then slave can not expand fully, so clutch disc rubs on flywheel.
When moving and shifting into the other gears the RPM matching is easier but you still may notice it is a little harder to "push/pull" shifter into a gear, but nothing like when stopped.
Simple test is to have engine off(0 RPMs) and shift into 1st and Reverse, if it shifts OK then problem is clutch system not transmission.
If bleeding fixes problem but it comes back then you have a leak in the system, may need to replace Master, not hard to do, and not too expensive
Also check transmission fluid level, most 1990 and newer Rangers used the M5OD-R1(M5R1) manual transmission, this used ATF(yes automatic transmission fluid)
As for the type of fluid, I had the slave cylinder replaced at a shop, so I don't know what they used. I found another transmission for a good price, but I'm hoping it doesn't come to having to change it.
Thanks again.
HORROR STORY: I had my slave start leaking. Had to replace the clutch, pressure plate, slave and did the master as well. Got it back and it had your problems with shifting. THEY ALL SHIFT HARD with air in the line cause the clutch never fully disengages.
Initially I had the master replaced cause it had a lot of air in it. Right after that the slave started leaking. First job was not done proper due to bleeding.
There is a You Tube vid that takes you through the entire process and that vid is THE ONLY WAY. Resign yourself to taking the master cylinder out of the car and bleeding it like the video shows with the tubing stretched out straight and strung up on a vertical pole. If you are going to reuse the old master, and I can't imagine why you would, there is a little basket plastic thingy that locks the master push-rod to the peddle. It must be broken to remove it so make sure you have that new part in your kit.
Initially I had the master replaced cause it had a lot of air in it. Right after that the slave started leaking. First job was not done proper due to bleeding.
There is a You Tube vid that takes you through the entire process and that vid is THE ONLY WAY. Resign yourself to taking the master cylinder out of the car and bleeding it like the video shows with the tubing stretched out straight and strung up on a vertical pole. If you are going to reuse the old master, and I can't imagine why you would, there is a little basket plastic thingy that locks the master push-rod to the peddle. It must be broken to remove it so make sure you have that new part in your kit.
Link?
I have a 1990 ranger experiencing the save shifting problems. The reply about bleeding the system answered my question and thanks man for being so descriptive... That helps! To the guy who said there is a video on YouTube that shows THE ONLY WAY to bleed it... Do you have that link so I can check that out?
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