Sorry to bring this up again ,
I have been messing with mine for the last 4 days .
I replaced the clutch disc, preasure plate , slave w/ t.o and the pilot bearing .
had good clutch operation , until one week later .
then the pedal was soft , and would not release the clutch , could not get it out of gear .
Replaced the master , and can't get any presure to build at all .
Put the old master back on , and still have nothing .
I have pumped the pedal at least 50 times in repetition, and can not build any preasure at all .
I have gravity bled it , I have put a hose on the bleeder . and placed it in a bottle of fluid , and filled the resivour , and opened the bleeder , and all it will do is drain the resevour .
I need this thing to be fixed , and still can't figure out where the problem is .
It is not that I am a rookie ...i am not . and with this many new parts , the last thing I want to do is pull the trans and transfer case again .

 

where's the fluid going? into the bellhousing? There's also another step......gravity bleed it, then have someone slowly push on the pedal to the floor and open the bleeder. Repete both. If all that's happening is draining the resevore, find out where the fluid went. IF it's in the bellhousing, it's possible that the slave is defective.

 

Did you bench bleed the new master?

 

The fluid goes into the bottle , I have no leaks , and all parts are new .
I have bench bleed both the new and the old masters , and have read all 17 posts in the search function .

 

Well the bench bleed method is the one described to me by AAMCO for them to get it done. The first time around on the FX4 (I was told) they simply bled it by the normal pumping the clutch pedal and opening then closing the bleed valve on the side of the tranny. When I got it back the clutch worked great, but the pedal still had play in 3/4 of its movement. I returned a few days later to have them re-bleed it (which I was ticked off that they would let it go back to the customer in that condition). This second time is when they apparently did the bench bleed method (which I hadn't known about) and low and behold, when I picked up the truck it was a beautiful thing to have it work and feel so great. (The bench bleed method as described to me was to place the master upside down in a vice as to allow the easiest route for air to escape.) That was back in December. No problems since.

Now I'm not suggesting you're doing anything wrong, nor am I referring you to an AAMCO or similar, just what my situation was and what might be able to help you.

 

Thank you , I will try it again tomorrow , I have mid terms this week , at least I have my Mustang to get around

 

I just put my 99 clutch together and had problems(getting fluid but no pedal) I ended up pulling the master out and pointing it uphil, gravity bleeding and all is well. You have to get the air out of the master!
John

 

I jacked the rear of my truck up to the garage ceiling to bleed mine. I got in close, but not perfect. I drove it for a while and eventually took it to the dealer. $31 dollars later it worked great. They said that had some sort of air system compressor system they used to push fluid in and to pull it back out. Seems like they reverse bled it for a second. They weren't too forth comming with the info. I didn't push it cause I felt lucky to get out of there for $30.

 

you need to jack up the front of the truck to bleed it properly because the master points down on the firewall and it needs to be level. the reverse bleeding method is done by using a Phoenix bleeder. I need to bench bleed my dads master, his clutch is still screwy sometimes

 

I'm amazed at the problems you guys have had with bleeding your clutches, and how much work some of you have put into it (raising the truck, etc) when mine was so easy. Had the same common problem (floppy clutch pedal, couldnt get it into or out of gear, etc). Got my buddy to help, openned the master, pumped the clutch 8-10 times, openned the bleed valve, closed it, repeated the process (while adding fluid to the master as it would run low).
Yeah, about 6 cycles of pumping and relieving pressure, I got a HUGE bubble of air out, pumped a few more times and low and behold I had clutch pressure back. Started her up, and HOLY %*$^ THIS FEELS LIKE BRAND NEW!
So why is my technique so different and (seemingly) provides better results?

 

you are lucky grasshopper

 

HA! maybe lucky with the Rangers, but thats how I've aways bled clutches. ever sinse my dad taught me how as a kid. thats even how we bleed brakes on Helicopters.

 

Fly Boy . I would say the reason you have not had problems bleeding your ranger clutch , is because you have never had to start with a new system of parts .
The good news is I have finally gotten this thing blead .
I did remove the Master from the firewall , and was able to get it flipped low enough to get the air bubble out .
I'm glad to be back on the road .
Thanks for the help .

 

Looks Like I have air still in the system .
If I get it bled out today , tomorrow morning , there
will be a soft pedal and poor dis-engagement .
I don't seem to be Able to get all of the air out .
Tho it is driveable , it is not right .

 

Thanks; this thread has left me with new ammo to try.