cant start after r/r schrader valve
#1
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Cycle the key on and off, listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank to run for 2 seconds each time key is turned on, it is not quiet, you can hear the HUMMMM from the cab if you listen for it.
If you don't hear it then check fuses in engine fuse box, also pull out each relay in that fuse box and put it back in, that cleans off the prongs and socket contacts.
If you hear the fuel pump running, then cycle key on and off a few times and then check if you now have pressure at new schrader valve.
If you don't hear it then check fuses in engine fuse box, also pull out each relay in that fuse box and put it back in, that cleans off the prongs and socket contacts.
If you hear the fuel pump running, then cycle key on and off a few times and then check if you now have pressure at new schrader valve.
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
There is no reason it would quit running if you changed the schrader valve.................So you need to start looking at other reasons its not running, i.e. maybe you shorted a wire during the work and blew a fuse
Spray gasoline into the intake and try to start engine
If it starts and dies then spark and compression are OK but engine isn't getting gasoline from injectors.
If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the issue
That's called a 50/50 test, instantly tells you what is working and what isn't
Maybe your timing belt picked this exact time to break
Spray gasoline into the intake and try to start engine
If it starts and dies then spark and compression are OK but engine isn't getting gasoline from injectors.
If it doesn't start then spark or compression is the issue
That's called a 50/50 test, instantly tells you what is working and what isn't
Maybe your timing belt picked this exact time to break
#5
okay we checked and it's a fire issue,there gonna check ignition etc,etc.what I now don't understand it's pretty straight forward to r/r that valve,it's pretty much out in the open and easy to get to.what wires in that area could you pos bump and cause a short that it won't start.his obd 1 reader is in the shop being fixed so he can see what codes pop up when he goes to work on it again soon.but in the interim what do you think caused the prob,timing belt is prob not it....thanks again for your help
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Can you see the timing belt turning the cam behind the cover?
ICM(ignition control module) is on the front side of the lower intake, behind the fan
It runs the spark
Crank sensor has 3 or 4 wires that come out of the back of the timing belt cover and run up to the ICM.
ICM then has 3 wires to each Coil Pack
4 wires to the computer
Crank sensor is the "BIG KAHUNA" of sensors..........on all vehicles without distributors.
ICM or computer has no connection to the "Key", neither knows when starter motor is activated.
All they do "see" is the crank sensor start to send out timed pulses when crank is spinning, and then the ICM starts the spark plugs and computer started the fuel injectors
So check ICM wiring first, ICM Modules can be tested at most auto parts stores, but 9 times out of 10 its the wiring
ICM(ignition control module) is on the front side of the lower intake, behind the fan
It runs the spark
Crank sensor has 3 or 4 wires that come out of the back of the timing belt cover and run up to the ICM.
ICM then has 3 wires to each Coil Pack
4 wires to the computer
Crank sensor is the "BIG KAHUNA" of sensors..........on all vehicles without distributors.
ICM or computer has no connection to the "Key", neither knows when starter motor is activated.
All they do "see" is the crank sensor start to send out timed pulses when crank is spinning, and then the ICM starts the spark plugs and computer started the fuel injectors
So check ICM wiring first, ICM Modules can be tested at most auto parts stores, but 9 times out of 10 its the wiring
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