Clutch help?
Clutch help?
I have a 2002 ranger 4.0l 5 speed. Everything with the clutch was just replace (slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch, fly wheel, throw out bearing, ext.) I got the truck back and the clutch has pressure behind it but its engaging low to the floor not up high like I figured it would. It only has 92k on the truck. The reason it was all replaced I bought it roughly a month ago for a daily and after about a day of driving the pressure was gone. So I decided to have it all replaced to ensure no further problems. Any idea what I need to do to fix the engaging point? Any help will be awesome thank you!
Did they install a self adjusting clutch, and/or there is still air in the system ?
The master cylinder has to be bench bled with the line attached to the master before installed into the truck.
It's pretty much impossible to bleed that part of the system because of all the up hill positioning of the line.
A self adjusting clutch will have 3 small springs around the middle circumference of the pressure plate.
The master cylinder has to be bench bled with the line attached to the master before installed into the truck.
It's pretty much impossible to bleed that part of the system because of all the up hill positioning of the line.
A self adjusting clutch will have 3 small springs around the middle circumference of the pressure plate.
I don't think it's air cause the pressure is great in the pedal all the way just I it engages/disengages about a quarter of the way up from the floor not near the top. I'm trying to get ahold of them to see what clutch was put in.
Air in the system doesn't change the "pressure", the air just absorbs the pressure so Slave doesn't fully expand when pedal is down at the floor, so can be hard to shift from neutral to 1st, or any gear, when stopped
You probably got a non-SAC(self adjusting) pressure plate, so when clutch disc is new(thick) pedal has to be down at the floor for full disengagement, then as the clutch disks wears down the disengage will move farther and farther up in pedal travel until its at the top and clutch is slipping, disc is too thin
The SAC pressure plate adjusts to the thickness of clutch disc so pedal engage/disengage stays at the same place in pedal travel as the clutch disc gets thinner with use
Clutches had external adjustments(and slaves) since they were invented, lol, SAC was just invented to take that off the table as a standard service item for manual vehicles
With the advent of internal slaves SAC just made since, but not required
One is not "better" than the other, both do the same job, clamping clutch disc to flywheel
SAC pressure plates cost more
You probably got a non-SAC(self adjusting) pressure plate, so when clutch disc is new(thick) pedal has to be down at the floor for full disengagement, then as the clutch disks wears down the disengage will move farther and farther up in pedal travel until its at the top and clutch is slipping, disc is too thin
The SAC pressure plate adjusts to the thickness of clutch disc so pedal engage/disengage stays at the same place in pedal travel as the clutch disc gets thinner with use
Clutches had external adjustments(and slaves) since they were invented, lol, SAC was just invented to take that off the table as a standard service item for manual vehicles
With the advent of internal slaves SAC just made since, but not required
One is not "better" than the other, both do the same job, clamping clutch disc to flywheel
SAC pressure plates cost more
Last edited by RonD; Dec 24, 2020 at 11:38 AM.
It's a little tough some to go into first but nothing crazy. Every other gear is fine just first and some times reverse. I'm going to try and bleed it and see. I believe it's a none self adjusting clutch in the truck.
It will get batter in a few weeks as clutch disc wears down a bit
Try shifting to 3rd or 4tf before shifting to 1st or reverse, when stopped
Transmissions can not be disconnected from the rear wheels....................so the transmission is ALWAYS turning/spinning at rear wheel speed, when stopped thats 0 RPMs
Engine idles at say 750rpms
Clutch disc spins at engine RPMs unless disengaged
Clutch disc is connected to transmission
So to put transmission in ANY gear when stopped, the clutch disc must be at 0 RPMs, just like the rear wheels
When you press down the clutch pedal it pulls the pressure plate back so clutch disc is no longer clamped to the flywheel, but it was spinning at 750 RPMs, so it needs to slow down to 0 RPMs before a gear can be engaged
There are "syncro-mesh gears" that are softer metal on each gear, as you move the shifter to a gear selection the syncrhro rubs on that gear to MATCH RPMs
In the case of being stopped that means it must slow down the 10" clutch disc to 0 RPMs the synchros are about 4"
So if there is ANY RUBBING of the clutch disc against flywheel or pressure plate then its very hard for the 4" synchro to slow down the 10" clutch disc, just physics
3rd and 4th tend to have better synchro matching, and once clutch disc is at 0 RPMs then 1st or Reverse are easy because its already matched
Shifting while moving is easier because RPM matching is easier
Try shifting to 3rd or 4tf before shifting to 1st or reverse, when stopped
Transmissions can not be disconnected from the rear wheels....................so the transmission is ALWAYS turning/spinning at rear wheel speed, when stopped thats 0 RPMs
Engine idles at say 750rpms
Clutch disc spins at engine RPMs unless disengaged
Clutch disc is connected to transmission
So to put transmission in ANY gear when stopped, the clutch disc must be at 0 RPMs, just like the rear wheels
When you press down the clutch pedal it pulls the pressure plate back so clutch disc is no longer clamped to the flywheel, but it was spinning at 750 RPMs, so it needs to slow down to 0 RPMs before a gear can be engaged
There are "syncro-mesh gears" that are softer metal on each gear, as you move the shifter to a gear selection the syncrhro rubs on that gear to MATCH RPMs
In the case of being stopped that means it must slow down the 10" clutch disc to 0 RPMs the synchros are about 4"
So if there is ANY RUBBING of the clutch disc against flywheel or pressure plate then its very hard for the 4" synchro to slow down the 10" clutch disc, just physics
3rd and 4th tend to have better synchro matching, and once clutch disc is at 0 RPMs then 1st or Reverse are easy because its already matched
Shifting while moving is easier because RPM matching is easier
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