Died on highway and won't start
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Member
Joined: Jun 2018
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From: San Antonio, TX
Died on highway and won't start
I have a 08 ranger sport 3.0l V6 100k miles, while driving down the highway the oil light came on and just figuring it was a little low I kept driving, within 5mins the transmission felt like it went to neutral and the Rpms would just rev but no response, the check engine light and battery light came on, while pulling over the truck died and wouldn't start, just a single click like a dead battery, all the cab lights stayed on while waiting for a tow truck (2hrs) indicating the battery was fine, main drive belt is in tact and no obvious signs of damage or fauilure, not sure where to start yet on diag, anybody experience this?
RF's Exiled Elite
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 553
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From: Kentucky
I would start with the charging system. Modern computerised vehicles hate voltage fluctuations and I've seen cars do all sorts of insane stuff just because of an alternator failing. If your alternator failed you could have survived for a short time on the battery until the voltage dropped too low. And even a nearly dead battery can power lights but will never turn the starter solenoid over. Try simply jump starting the truck. If it cranks you can probably bet your on the right track and move on to testing the alternator...
oh yea... check the oil first to confirm you didn't just fry the engine running out of oil lol.
oh yea... check the oil first to confirm you didn't just fry the engine running out of oil lol.
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 343
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From: IL
yea when the oil light comes on you have about 5 sec to shut the engine off or you roasted it - the light means no oil psi - has nothing to do with oil level.... Better hope the alt died or something else happened first.
I have a 08 ranger sport 3.0l V6 100k miles, while driving down the highway the oil light came on and just figuring it was a little low I kept driving, within 5mins the transmission felt like it went to neutral and the Rpms would just rev but no response, the check engine light and battery light came on, while pulling over the truck died and wouldn't start, just a single click like a dead battery, all the cab lights stayed on while waiting for a tow truck (2hrs) indicating the battery was fine, main drive belt is in tact and no obvious signs of damage or fauilure, not sure where to start yet on diag, anybody experience this?
Sorry
Engine is seized up so starter motor can not turn over the engine.
Bearings got hot because there was no oil to cool them off so they are now welded to the crank.
Shop for replacement engine
Not a "guess", you said "oil light came on" and "I drove for 5 more minutes", and that's a seized engine and nothing else
Starter motor not working confirms it
Last edited by RonD; Jun 23, 2018 at 11:03 PM.
Make sure tire pressure is at 32psi, then try starting engine again.
If that doesn't work look for a new engine
Better?
It is a bummer but better to know worst case, than to waste time and maybe money on non-fixes
More than a few I have advised, to "just do the glove test" for cracked head or blown head gasket, spend time and money replacing thermostats, water pumps and radiators to cure over heating when they have a cracked head or blown head gasket.
Sure they have new thermostat and water pump and radiator, to go with the new heads, lol, but stills I think it is better to know what is wrong first then see what else you want to add to that
If that doesn't work look for a new engine
Better?
It is a bummer but better to know worst case, than to waste time and maybe money on non-fixes
More than a few I have advised, to "just do the glove test" for cracked head or blown head gasket, spend time and money replacing thermostats, water pumps and radiators to cure over heating when they have a cracked head or blown head gasket.
Sure they have new thermostat and water pump and radiator, to go with the new heads, lol, but stills I think it is better to know what is wrong first then see what else you want to add to that
Last edited by RonD; Jun 24, 2018 at 09:18 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2018
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From: San Antonio, TX
Update, finally got to take a look at it today at work and yup engine is seized, oil pump failed without and prior knowledge of an issue and it's done, oil had signs of the bearings being shot and it won't turn by hand, guess it's time to shop for a new truck but thanks everyone for the advice. crazy how when it went their was no jerking or noises at all just went from perfectly fine to seized within seconds. Oh well **** happens I guess.
Yes, bummer for sure.
There are rolled or wrecked Rangers, with 3.0l engines that are OK
Your Ranger isn't worth as much with bad engine, neither is the rolled or wrecked one........but combine them and you have a Ranger that's worth money again
3.0l Vulcan engine has been made from 1986 to 2008, your Ranger was last year of the 3.0l Vulcan engine, just FYI.
It was also used in areostar, taurus and sable.
You can use pretty much any year 3.0l Vulcan from any vehicle, obviously later years will have lower miles.
You will need to use your intake and exhaust, oil pan and accessories
Used 3.0l Vulcan engine runs about $800-$1,100 depending on miles
Or you can rebuild yours
Master rebuild kit runs $300-$400, thats with new pistons, rings, cam, bearings, and gaskets.
You have to pull and install an engine either way, used engine or rebuild yours
There are rolled or wrecked Rangers, with 3.0l engines that are OK
Your Ranger isn't worth as much with bad engine, neither is the rolled or wrecked one........but combine them and you have a Ranger that's worth money again
3.0l Vulcan engine has been made from 1986 to 2008, your Ranger was last year of the 3.0l Vulcan engine, just FYI.
It was also used in areostar, taurus and sable.
You can use pretty much any year 3.0l Vulcan from any vehicle, obviously later years will have lower miles.
You will need to use your intake and exhaust, oil pan and accessories
Used 3.0l Vulcan engine runs about $800-$1,100 depending on miles
Or you can rebuild yours
Master rebuild kit runs $300-$400, thats with new pistons, rings, cam, bearings, and gaskets.
You have to pull and install an engine either way, used engine or rebuild yours
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