Hey, did you pull the carrier out and check the carrier bearings, spiders, shafts and axle bearings and seals out? What about the backlash, it should be between .008 and .012. If you pull out the carrier, you'll find out rather easily if it is a 4.10 or not because the pinion gear usually has the ratio stamped right on the head. You might also want to check turning torque on your pinion at that time too. My advice would be to build it to last. Hope it all goes well for you. I just went through the same thing

 

Well, leaf perches came in today. And my Y-pipe cracked on the way home... So axle swap may be put on hold, YET AGAIN.....

 

soooo i heard ur selling the axle and going to beat the **** out of this till it blows and say ---- it? truth?

 

It was...at one point. But I started work on it today. My buddy and I welded the leaf perches in place and the shock mounts, as well as welded the tubes to the diff. Pics to come shortly

 

You DO realize you have to stitch weld the tubes or you'll tweak them, right?

 

Pics!



Leaf perches being adjusted and measured up into place


Perches being welded


Shock mounts being welded into place


Other shock mount being welded into place


After everything was welded into place


Read from the tech library on TRS (following that throughout this build) to weld the axle tubes into place because they're only held in with some plugs that will break when severe pressure is put on em.


All welded up




As it sits right now in the back of my truck

 

What's your pinion angle set at? Looks like 0 degrees....

 

The pinion angle is at roughly 7 degrees, leaf perches at 0, and the shock mounts are at a 40 degree angle.

 

Oh, what gear oil should I use?

 

Is it just me or does it look like contaminated base metal. You know, what happens when there isn't bare metal being welded to????? LOP? POR? UCT?


I had mine shining goooooood before primer went on her...and I didn't have to weld anything. OBV this wasn't done to this axle pictured above in even the spots being welded to? I could be wrong but that's what the pics show me.

 

Those welds look TERRIBLE I would cut it all off grind the thing down and re do all of them. Also like said above your pinion angle looks like 0*

 

The guy didnt even wrap his welds around the spring perch. OR grind anything down. Major fail. Not to get on your *** Pete, but that "thing" is an accident waiting to happen. You need to redo it if you value your life and others lives.

This is a pic of my perches welded on. The welds should look as good or better...Your welds are WAY too thin for that thickeness of material. What was it, a 110v flux core welder? You need a 220v mig with at least .030 wire and turn it way up for great penatration

 

harbor freight has grinders on sale this week for 18.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

 

No clue what kind of welder it was, but thos welds are more than strong enough. Penetration was turned to the max. My buddy has welded rear ends together for mud trucks and they haven't broken on trucks with 700 horsepower...Pinion angle IS NOT 0*... Please tell me how you are even able to judge such a small measurement from a picture?! Shane, we took a grinder to the welding points and cleaned them up, not the entire axle. I'm gonna take a wire wheel to it and paint it today. And lo, nobody has answered my question now for a third time... I'M CHANGING THE GEAR OIL IN THE DIFF...WHAT WEIGHT SHOULD I USE???

 

That's actually not too bad. I might have to go get one of em.

 

Im telling you right now, that bubblegum bullshit will NOT hold.

 

That's what we've been using to build my bumper, he's had it for 5 years and still works great.

About a 75w-90 or 80w-90 should be good.

I can sort of see some grinding but you should have really ground off way more. I'm assuming you plan on painting it anyway before it goes in, so you're gonna want to at least get some of that off the whole axle anyway.

I'm not a welder so I'm not really gonna provide any input, I just know you do need bare metal for a good penetration.

 

I'm not welder but first things first is those welds look like poop and don't look strong at all. Also this picture clearly shows that you did NOT clean the axle before you welded. It seems to me that you want everyones help on here but then when we give you help you bash it and tell us that you did it right and you know what your doing.



One thing I learned when I first started posting here, listen and you will learn.

 

Well let's see, those **** welds are from a kid going to school for welding. No, they're not perfect but they're stronger than they look. Looks don't give it's strength...it's the penetration.

 

Big amen brother!

 

^ THAT nonsense sentence was your rebuttal?!?!......Agh..facepalm... You just dont know when to keep your mouth shut, do you?

 

The red words are how I know that you know nothing about welding.

First the axle was not clean enough to weld with MIG. you needed to clean it down to shiny metal.

Second you don't have a big enough machine to weld 1/4" perches to 1/4" thick or thicker axle tubes.

Third, MIG welding the tubes to the center section is stupid. Those welds won't last very long. They needed to be preheated, sticked with some low nickel electrode and then post heated.

And fourth "penetration" is not a setting on a welder. Voltage and wire speed is, but not "penetration". Besides, first time you get on the throttle, those MIG welds will peel right off the axle. Hold on tight.

 

Lol Well said Legoms.

 

Do you still need to know what gear oil to use or did you figure that out?

 

I think he did, he is going with DOT3, its a penetrator










LOL