Help: 5r55e & Converter Removal & Installation 99 Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 4WD
#1
12-07-2022
Help: 5r55e & Converter Removal & Installation 99 Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 4WD
HELP: 5r55e & Converter Removal & Installation 99 Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 4WD
I'm preparing to replace my transmission with another 5r55e which came with it's wiring loom attached and included torque converter as I have lost all but R and cannot discern as to why and cannot afford a shop to do it.
Never done this before but mechanically inclined and fairly knowledgeable regarding vehicles. Also have a Chilton shop manual on hand and seams fairly straightforward.
Before I begin I'm seeking a step by step on what needs to be done and what other required parts I need to buy and replace as the Chilton instructions are for a 2wd application and is pretty vague and mentions nothing regarding Torque Converter or T-Case.
I have a few questions regarding this specific vehicle.
1: Should I flush the lines? Procedure?
1a: How much Mercon V will I need w/o swap? 1b: How much Mercon V will I need w/ swap?
2: What goes between T-Case and Transmission?
3: Should I install a drain plug and which location is best to drill the hole if so? Any guidance installing plug?
4: Should I drain and fill the T-Case? Procedure?
4a: How much Mercon will I need?
5: Which tools, gauges, scanners will I require?
6: What readings should I get on my scan tool regarding pressures and ratios?
7: Are there any other parts I should check out replace that will be easier while I'm doing this?
Also if there is anything else I need to know I would appreciate the knowledge. Thank you.
I'm preparing to replace my transmission with another 5r55e which came with it's wiring loom attached and included torque converter as I have lost all but R and cannot discern as to why and cannot afford a shop to do it.
Never done this before but mechanically inclined and fairly knowledgeable regarding vehicles. Also have a Chilton shop manual on hand and seams fairly straightforward.
Before I begin I'm seeking a step by step on what needs to be done and what other required parts I need to buy and replace as the Chilton instructions are for a 2wd application and is pretty vague and mentions nothing regarding Torque Converter or T-Case.
I have a few questions regarding this specific vehicle.
1: Should I flush the lines? Procedure?
1a: How much Mercon V will I need w/o swap? 1b: How much Mercon V will I need w/ swap?
2: What goes between T-Case and Transmission?
3: Should I install a drain plug and which location is best to drill the hole if so? Any guidance installing plug?
4: Should I drain and fill the T-Case? Procedure?
4a: How much Mercon will I need?
5: Which tools, gauges, scanners will I require?
6: What readings should I get on my scan tool regarding pressures and ratios?
7: Are there any other parts I should check out replace that will be easier while I'm doing this?
Also if there is anything else I need to know I would appreciate the knowledge. Thank you.
Last edited by marcopolo112911@gmail.com; 12-07-2022 at 08:51 PM.
#2
12-07-2022
Welcome to the forum
Unplug the wiring loom on the "new" transmission, you don't want it
You will use the wiring loom that's on the vehicle now
5R55E got a new sensor in 2001 which doesn't need to be plugged in with a 1999 Computer, so if 5R55E is a 2001-2011 model don't worry about the unplugged sensor, in middle of trans drivers side, above shifter, called ISS sensor
"New" 5R55E MUST be from a 4x4, no conversion is possible, 2WD trans will not work
Vehicle must be raised high enough to slide the old trans out and new trans in, measure the height of the top of bell housing on "new" transmission, while its on the floor, that will tell you how much clearance you will need to slide old one out and new one in
DISCONNECT BATTERY
Disconnect the 2 trans cooler lines from the transmission and put a pan under them, let them drain while you do other things
Loosen transmission pan and let it drain a bit then snug it back up, it needs to be in place to remove transmission
You will remove transfer case first, Google: ford ranger transfer case removal
There are videos and how-to's
A "floor jack" is handy if you are working on a concrete floor, a jack with wheels
Transfer case can be directly on jack
Transmission requires a piece of plywood so pan won't be dented by the jack
After transfer case is out you will need to remove exhaust pipes, "Y" pipes, these can be hard to remove, probably the HARDEST PART of the job
Nuts and bolts are usually rusty
When you start the work, spray the exhaust nuts and bolts with penetrating oil or Blaster or Liquid Wrench, then do it again every few hours until its time to try and remove them
It is what it is, as said, hardest part of the job usually
The rear of the engine is supported by the transmission and its rear support, so when you remove the transmission you are removing the rear support for the engine
Open the hood and put folded towels over the fenders and then a 2x4 or 4x4 across the engine bay on the towels, just above the rear of exhaust manifolds
Loop a chain or strap around exhaust manifold and over 2x4 on each side, as tight as you can, within reason, rear of engine will go down a bit, that's needed to get to the top bolts on bell housing from underneath, and for transmission to slide back and out clearing the firewall
Remove all 6 spark plugs so you can turn the engine easily
Remove start motor
Look at the bottom of bell housing, there may be an "inspection plate" held on to bell housing by 2 screws/bolts, remove it, should see ring gear(flexplate)
There are 4 nuts/bolts holding torque converter to Flexplate(flywheel)
Remove these thru start motor hole, remove 1, turn engine, remove the next one, until all 4 are out
Should be able to move torque converter back when all 4 are removed, only 1/4-1/2" but will move back
Unplug the wiring harness, if you haven't already
Put jack under trans and jack it up a bit
Remove bolts from transmission remount
Remove trans support cross brace
Lower trans a bit
Start removing bell housing bolts, start at the top they are the hardest to get too, need long extensions and swivel sockets
Ranger fluid and capacities seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ds-capacities/
Torque converters hold about 3 quarts of the 10 quarts so if it wasn't drained then keep that in mind when refilling
Unplug the wiring loom on the "new" transmission, you don't want it
You will use the wiring loom that's on the vehicle now
5R55E got a new sensor in 2001 which doesn't need to be plugged in with a 1999 Computer, so if 5R55E is a 2001-2011 model don't worry about the unplugged sensor, in middle of trans drivers side, above shifter, called ISS sensor
"New" 5R55E MUST be from a 4x4, no conversion is possible, 2WD trans will not work
Vehicle must be raised high enough to slide the old trans out and new trans in, measure the height of the top of bell housing on "new" transmission, while its on the floor, that will tell you how much clearance you will need to slide old one out and new one in
DISCONNECT BATTERY
Disconnect the 2 trans cooler lines from the transmission and put a pan under them, let them drain while you do other things
Loosen transmission pan and let it drain a bit then snug it back up, it needs to be in place to remove transmission
You will remove transfer case first, Google: ford ranger transfer case removal
There are videos and how-to's
A "floor jack" is handy if you are working on a concrete floor, a jack with wheels
Transfer case can be directly on jack
Transmission requires a piece of plywood so pan won't be dented by the jack
After transfer case is out you will need to remove exhaust pipes, "Y" pipes, these can be hard to remove, probably the HARDEST PART of the job
Nuts and bolts are usually rusty
When you start the work, spray the exhaust nuts and bolts with penetrating oil or Blaster or Liquid Wrench, then do it again every few hours until its time to try and remove them
It is what it is, as said, hardest part of the job usually
The rear of the engine is supported by the transmission and its rear support, so when you remove the transmission you are removing the rear support for the engine
Open the hood and put folded towels over the fenders and then a 2x4 or 4x4 across the engine bay on the towels, just above the rear of exhaust manifolds
Loop a chain or strap around exhaust manifold and over 2x4 on each side, as tight as you can, within reason, rear of engine will go down a bit, that's needed to get to the top bolts on bell housing from underneath, and for transmission to slide back and out clearing the firewall
Remove all 6 spark plugs so you can turn the engine easily
Remove start motor
Look at the bottom of bell housing, there may be an "inspection plate" held on to bell housing by 2 screws/bolts, remove it, should see ring gear(flexplate)
There are 4 nuts/bolts holding torque converter to Flexplate(flywheel)
Remove these thru start motor hole, remove 1, turn engine, remove the next one, until all 4 are out
Should be able to move torque converter back when all 4 are removed, only 1/4-1/2" but will move back
Unplug the wiring harness, if you haven't already
Put jack under trans and jack it up a bit
Remove bolts from transmission remount
Remove trans support cross brace
Lower trans a bit
Start removing bell housing bolts, start at the top they are the hardest to get too, need long extensions and swivel sockets
Ranger fluid and capacities seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...ds-capacities/
Torque converters hold about 3 quarts of the 10 quarts so if it wasn't drained then keep that in mind when refilling
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