Rough Idle and Stalling
#1
Rough Idle and Stalling
2000 3.0 v6 RWD
Filled up the gas tank(at a regional gas station) before leaving town. Got 10 miles down the highway before the engine stalled out. Was able to start it back up. Had a rough idle at low RPM. At a higher rpm idle, completely fine. Went down the highway for about a mile, would start to lose the umph to keep going at speed and wouldn't get up to highway speed and stalled again. Also, oil pressure gauge drops at low idle, but goes back to normal when at a high idle. There is now a clicking sound that corresponds to speed of the truck. The sound is not present during idle.
Serpentine belt and idler pulley are making noise
No check engine light or codes
Just started this afternoon and I have not had this issue before. I got it towed back to the house and will drive around the block and up hills at surface street speeds for 2+ miles
I am thinking fuel pump or bad fuel. Which way should I go from here?
Filled up the gas tank(at a regional gas station) before leaving town. Got 10 miles down the highway before the engine stalled out. Was able to start it back up. Had a rough idle at low RPM. At a higher rpm idle, completely fine. Went down the highway for about a mile, would start to lose the umph to keep going at speed and wouldn't get up to highway speed and stalled again. Also, oil pressure gauge drops at low idle, but goes back to normal when at a high idle. There is now a clicking sound that corresponds to speed of the truck. The sound is not present during idle.
Serpentine belt and idler pulley are making noise
No check engine light or codes
Just started this afternoon and I have not had this issue before. I got it towed back to the house and will drive around the block and up hills at surface street speeds for 2+ miles
I am thinking fuel pump or bad fuel. Which way should I go from here?
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Add a can of Octane Boost or HEET to gas tank, it's just ethanol, it can bond with water in the tank so it can be burned without stalling the engine.
Bad gas means it has more water than usual, all gas has water in it, but too much causes poor running
Gasoline and water can't mix/bond, and water is heavier than gasoline so water sinks to bottom of gas tank..............where fuel pump pick up is located, so..............lots of water at the bottom with bad gas.
Ethanol will get rid of it.
Run with gas cap loose, you should get a code after a few drives, if you OVER FILL a gas tank it can block the vent, and you create a problem with flow out of the tank, this is a long shot but not 0 shot
Bad gas means it has more water than usual, all gas has water in it, but too much causes poor running
Gasoline and water can't mix/bond, and water is heavier than gasoline so water sinks to bottom of gas tank..............where fuel pump pick up is located, so..............lots of water at the bottom with bad gas.
Ethanol will get rid of it.
Run with gas cap loose, you should get a code after a few drives, if you OVER FILL a gas tank it can block the vent, and you create a problem with flow out of the tank, this is a long shot but not 0 shot
#3
Tank is not full, about a needle's width less than the full line. Should I still run with a loose cap?
And would higher water content allow the truck to have the symptoms as mentioned, including the 'clicking' noise?
Thank you for the tip. If this doesn't work, what is the next step? I plan to take it to a shop in the morning.
And would higher water content allow the truck to have the symptoms as mentioned, including the 'clicking' noise?
Thank you for the tip. If this doesn't work, what is the next step? I plan to take it to a shop in the morning.
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#6
Other Update for Diagnosis
The previous time I filled up I used E85 in my truck, which does take Flex Fuel. I put in 3 gallons of regular fuel before driving 45 miles and then topped it off today with Unleaded 88 Octane, not the 'regular' fuel. Both flex and the 88 Octane are rated for my truck.
Could it potentially be wrong gas or the computer not adjusting to the new fuel?
The previous time I filled up I used E85 in my truck, which does take Flex Fuel. I put in 3 gallons of regular fuel before driving 45 miles and then topped it off today with Unleaded 88 Octane, not the 'regular' fuel. Both flex and the 88 Octane are rated for my truck.
Could it potentially be wrong gas or the computer not adjusting to the new fuel?
#8
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Tippy, that was a VERY important part to leave out.................
HEET is essentially E85, so no use adding it
In 2000 model Flex Fuel Ranger you will have a fuel sensor, it is in the frame rail under drivers seat area next to fuel filter, it tells the computer what type of fuel will be coming into the injectors so it can adjust open time for correct air:fuel ratio
Gasoline uses 14.7:1 air:fuel
E85 uses 9.8:1
So BIG difference
These Fuel sensors cost about $750, so many just replace them with $30 replicator and stick with Gasoline Only, no E85
I assume engine ran fine on E85?
Which means fuel sensor was working
But that switch back to gasoline is causing an issue?
This fuel type switch is most likely the issue, we just need to find out why
Also plan on changing fuel filter, $10, so not a big expense, dump the fuel from the old filter into a clear glass container, let it sit for a few minutes
Water is heavier so if you see a layer of water on the bottom then you do have a bad gas issue.
While filter is off you can put a pan down under the fuel line from the tank and cycle the key on and off a few times, this will pump out the bottom layer of fuel from the tank, highest water content, then replace filter and see how things go.
HEET is essentially E85, so no use adding it
In 2000 model Flex Fuel Ranger you will have a fuel sensor, it is in the frame rail under drivers seat area next to fuel filter, it tells the computer what type of fuel will be coming into the injectors so it can adjust open time for correct air:fuel ratio
Gasoline uses 14.7:1 air:fuel
E85 uses 9.8:1
So BIG difference
These Fuel sensors cost about $750, so many just replace them with $30 replicator and stick with Gasoline Only, no E85
I assume engine ran fine on E85?
Which means fuel sensor was working
But that switch back to gasoline is causing an issue?
This fuel type switch is most likely the issue, we just need to find out why
Also plan on changing fuel filter, $10, so not a big expense, dump the fuel from the old filter into a clear glass container, let it sit for a few minutes
Water is heavier so if you see a layer of water on the bottom then you do have a bad gas issue.
While filter is off you can put a pan down under the fuel line from the tank and cycle the key on and off a few times, this will pump out the bottom layer of fuel from the tank, highest water content, then replace filter and see how things go.
Last edited by RonD; 06-16-2018 at 09:57 AM.
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