I have a 2006 ranger 4wd, 4 liter, I put it in 4wd low in some soft sand and now it won't come out of 4wd low. I know to put it in neutral with the brake pressed and wait 3 or more seconds. I had to drive home about 5 miles in low. Clues are; the speedometer was reading about twice x reality, the indicator lights are not on [2wd, 4wd HI & 4wd low]. I can hear clicking like it's trying to switch it out. I put it in neutral with a board against the seat to hold the brake on and lightly tapped the transfer case motor [ok a bit more than lightly]

I have ordered some parts; transfer case motor and selector switch. B05001. I have looked under the truck and I can't see where this switch goes. I see the motor with several wires including larger black and red wires that must be the power supply.
Where does this shift actuator go?

Thanks for the help.

 

If not exercised monthly or so, 4x4ShiftMotor on rear of TransferCase is a NotoriousFailureItem;
designed just barely large enough to do the job, so if brushes get worn or bearings get rusty, it gets stuck.
4x4ConModule (another NotoriousFailureItem, usually behind GloveBox or RightKickPanel) is clicking = trying to shift Motor, so likely ok.
DashSwitch is likely not problem; just a simple switch.

 

Most likely issue is the 4x4CM(control module) its behind the radio in 2006

This is because there are no flashing 4WD lights
First check(PULL OUT and look at) Fuses 10, 22, 27 and 28 in cab fuse box
These all power the 4WD module

How it works
The dash switch never breaks, just 3 resistors, one for each position, 2WD, 4H and 4L
With key on the 4x4CM sends the switch 5volts, it gets back 4v, 3v, or 2v depending on switch position
If 4x4CM gets back 0volts then it will Flash the 4WD lights

The shift motor on the back of transfer case has 7 wires
2 are power wires from the 4x4CM, its a DC electric motor, so can spin clockwise or counter clockwise, like power window motor, depending on polarity of the 2 wires, +/- or -/+
Other 5 wires are for Position of the shift motor, all go to 4x4CM
1 wire is the "sensor"/ground
Other 4 are either connected to the sensor wire or disconnected from sensor wire
Shift motor has 4 positions, 2wd, 4h, neutral, 4l
Neutral requires a special adapter kit

The 4x4CM KNOWS what position the shift motor(transfer case) is in instantly with key on because of these 5 wires, and KNOWS what selection its suppose to be in by the Voltage feedback from the switch

If you were in 2WD and select 4h the 4x4CM sends voltage to the shift motor, if the 5 wire position feedback doesn't change INSTANTLY the 4x4CM will start to flash the 4WD lights because shift motors is not moving

Flashing 4WD lights means 4x4CM is working but something ELSE isn't
No flashing 4WD lights means 4x4CM is not working or powered off(fuses)

4x4CMs were an issue on 2001-2011 Rangers

Shift motor fuse is in the engine fuse box, fuse 27 in 2006

 

Ron D, any chance you could try and steer me in the right direction on a similar issue? 2003 4.0 4x4 135k. I have been stuck in 4Lo for 11 months. So far I have replaced:
-Shift **** switch (New NAPA)
-4X4CM in passender footwell (New OEM)
-Electric shift motor (New DORMAN)
-Trans speed sensor (New NAPA)
-Fluid (Motorcraft)
-Fuses checked #5(Cab) #13(Engine) plus a few more
I can manually shift it into 2wd to get around. The cluster still displays "4LO" though the **** is on 2wd and the TC is on 2wd. My speedo is reading only to about 25mph even at 70. I cannot get the range selector to move at all even when plugged in and off the Tcase. I'm frustrated having only popped it in 4Lo one time for about 20 feet last year.

 

The Shift Motor on the transfer case tells the dash and computer its in 4Low, nothing else, so if its stuck in 4low then doesn't matter if you move the shift rod manually to 2WD, computer and dash still think its in 4low

Pull off the shift motor and unplug its wiring harness

Shift motor rebuild pictures here so you can see how it works: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...e-shift-motor/

What may have happened is 4x4CM turned the motor too far and it got Jammed against the STOP on the gear drive, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...t_motor-12.JPG

You can see that the Motor itself just has 2 wires, other 5 wires are position "sensors"/Contacts, they tell 4x4CM and dash/computer what position transfer case is in

The 2 wires on the motor are what turn the motor, 12v/ground turns one way, ground/12v turns the other way, in above article they are the Yellow and Orange wires

Open the hood, go to the battery, and have two jumper wires handy
Insert jumper wires in the 8 pin connector, for the 2 motor wires
Have shift motor on something solid because will torque twist if it works
Touch jumpers to negative and positive, one on each of course, lol, motor should start to move, if not Reverse the jumpers on battery
Should move now
If not motor is dead, replace it

If motor moves let it move until it stops
Then Reverse polarity again and let it move until it stops, you are cleaning the brushes in the motor off
Repeat a few times making sure motor runs smoothly

Now plug shift motor back in to 7 wire connector under the truck
Turn on the key, shift motor "should" move to Dash Switch selection, regardless of where you left it
Then try dash switch for 4high, and then back to 2wd
Making sure you hear the shift motor turning each time
Reinstall it

On the Ranger electric 4x4 systems the switch NEVER BREAKS, just 3 resistors
2001-2005 4x4CM has issues, often fails, used are not a good bet
Redesigned in 2006 but can't be used in earlier models

Shift motor usually fails from disuse, but it is the only moving part of the system so can wear out

 

This is probably not your problem but there is another thing that can cause this. I have a manual shift transfer case and got stuck in 4WD high. I was on a long trip and eventually pulled the front driveshaft to keep the driveline from binding while turning. When I finally got the transfer case out and took it apart, I found the shift fork had broken. It is made of plastic.

It seems strange that your speedometer is reading like the transfer case is in high when it is still in low. That is what made me think the internal shifting linkage may may be in place for high but has not shifted out of low possibly due to a broken shift fork. I don't know if there is any way to test that without opening the transfer case. I have no explanation for the indicator lights being out.

 

Thanks for the reply Ron. Both the old Range selector and the new one I bought are stuck in the "4Lo" position or at 12 O'Clock. Neither will turn to another range when selected with the **** regardless of Neutral/Brake. The Dash is displaying "4Lo" light on the cluster. Plugged in under the truck with the engine running and in neutral/foot on brake, there is nothing that happens when switching to 4Hi or 2wd.
I understand the two-wire testing you explained. This was what was next on my list to help at least eliminate one variable. Though, there is no communication between the **** and the range selector even after having replaced all the components between them. Friday 9/29 I'll try the two wire trick with the old one first and see if I can trick it into moving. If it does, I'll do the same to the new one, turn it to 2wd, turn the **** on the dash to 2wd and turn the peg manually to 2wd and put it all back together. Maybe then it will all work when switche from 2wdd to 4Hi while moving. If I can get those two I'm good. I don't ever go into 4Lo anyways.

 

There is no trick, its a 12volt motor, it either works when it has 12v and ground or it doesn't

I assume you have checked the fuse in engine bay fuse box?
fuse 13, 20amp, it powers the motor

 

Fuses checked and they are fine. I even swapped a few similars around.

 

Have you tried to manually shift the transfer case? Crawling under the vehicle is required. I don't remember the details but I think you have to remove the shift motor.

 

BACK IN BUSINESS! I listened to Ron's advice. I took the new selector motor and used 2 jumper wires off a battery to force the selector to the 2WD location. Once plugged into the truck by the Transfer Case, the vehicle allowed itself to acknowledge 2WD on the dash. Put it back onto the TC and it drives as it should now. 2wd and 4HI are both active.

I still have no clear idea why the truck would't turn the range selector(s) (I had an old and a new one) on its own. Keep in mind 100% of the electronics were brand new but the truck thought it was in 4LO. There was no telling it otherwise without the forcing the selector on the bench. This then told the truck what range it was in. I hope this helps someone else down the road too.

RECAP:
4LO definitely stuck regardless of Neutral/Brakes
100% new electronic components chasing issue
Dash switch had zero effect on selections
Cluster said "4LO"
Transfer Case manually turned to 2WD

I don't actually know what went wrong. For some reason going into 4LO became a permanent thing. 11 months of trying to get it 100% out (1st normally, then mechanically and finally electronically) comes to an end. I love this truck again. I'm happy to park the Duramax and enjoy a little "Cheaper" fuel again for a bit.