Exterior Semi-Tech General discussion of exterior for the Ford Ranger.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Damge Down Under

  #1  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ladsen, SC
Posts: 6
Icon4 Damge Down Under

So I was poking around under my 97 Ranger and found this: Pretty obviousley not a good thing but what exactly is it? How urgent is it that it be fixed and how long would you guess it can be driven like this?



 
  #2  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 1,653
Probably not much longer when it comes to the last photo, you can see the pin is almost worn through.
New mounts and bushings are available.
Looks like the mount may still be OK, but the bolt will have to be replaced too.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...g+bushing,7488
 

Last edited by Jeff R 1; 02-24-2019 at 03:11 PM.
  #3  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ladsen, SC
Posts: 6
So what exactly is this bushing holding, would this be called the forward leaf spring?
 
  #4  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 1,653
The bushing is holding the leaf spring on the front shackle and is held in place with a bolt.
The bolt in your photo is weakened where it's worn thin, so it can't be re-used.
What's missing is the rubber that the actual bushing is made from, it's pretty much gone.

Not so much the forward leaf spring, but the forward mount.
What's the rear shackle look like, that's usually the one that fails, fails, not the front ?
Sometimes the frame on the rear where the shackle rusts away too.

It's a big job to replace the bushing, the entire leaf spring (on each side if it's gone too) has to be removed so the outer steal part of the original bushing can be pressed out on a hydraulic press.
The press is also used to insert the new bushing.

Once the new bushings are pressed in and the springs are mounted with the new bolts, the truck is let standing in it's static position with nothing in the bed.
Then the bolts are tightened up as to correctly pre-load the rubber in the new bushings.
 

Last edited by Jeff R 1; 02-24-2019 at 03:34 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-24-2019
2011Supercab's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 251
Originally Posted by Jeff R 1 View Post
The bushing is holding the leaf spring on the front shackle and is held in place with a bolt.
.
Looks like the transmission cross member mounts to me.
 
  #6  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ladsen, SC
Posts: 6
You have any suggestions for any good how to videos or posts on how such a procedure is conducted?
 
  #7  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ladsen, SC
Posts: 6
Originally Posted by 2011Supercab View Post
Looks like the transmission cross member mounts to me.
It is indeed bolted to the Transmission
 
  #8  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 1,653
OK, yes trans mount, it's much different then mine.
 
  #9  
Old 02-24-2019
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 12,182
Yes, that's the transmission support bar bracket, also called crossmember frame bracket

Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528008d497.gif

Unfortunately the rubber bushings are rotted out and they are part of the crossmember not a separate part, so you would have to buy a whole new crossmember, but...........

If you are a resourceful person you may be able to make bushings
You will need new bolts and nuts as the ones on there will most likely have to be cut off
The brackets on the frame look OK, and should be fine to reuse

And there is also the option of a 1994 crossmember which bolted to the frame no bushings or hangers, but it is said there is more vibration transfer

Or see if you can find one with OK bushings at wrecking yard, but look closely, they use fork lifts to move cars around and crossmember is easily bent


Front leaf spring brackets are a little farther back on the frame
 
  #10  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ladsen, SC
Posts: 6
Thanks guys you've been a lot of help. Hopefully this isn't to hard a fix. Or at least a educational one xD
 
  #11  
Old 02-24-2019
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Ladsen, SC
Posts: 6
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Yes, that's the transmission support bar bracket, also called crossmember frame bracket

Drawing here: http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...528008d497.gif

Unfortunately the rubber bushings are rotted out and they are part of the crossmember not a separate part, so you would have to buy a whole new crossmember, but...........

If you are a resourceful person you may be able to make bushings
You will need new bolts and nuts as the ones on there will most likely have to be cut off
The brackets on the frame look OK, and should be fine to reuse

And there is also the option of a 1994 crossmember which bolted to the frame no bushings or hangers, but it is said there is more vibration transfer

Or see if you can find one with OK bushings at wrecking yard, but look closely, they use fork lifts to move cars around and crossmember is easily bent


Front leaf spring brackets are a little farther back on the frame
Ok so I'm considering these two replacements: https://www.ebay.com/i/151444438467?chn=ps Because it seems fairly easy, and straight forward to install and it's not breaking the bank.
The second consideration is this: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ort-e9tz6a023e I'm not sure the this is actually the right part, but it looks like it is and on another forum it was stated it was used for such a purpose. It is also not stated if the bolts would come with it or not.
Any suggestions?
 
  #12  
Old 02-25-2019
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 12,182
Second selection is better because it isolates frame from vibration of engine/trans and driveline, like what you had before

The bolt needs to be correct diameter, it doesn't need to be super hard metal so hardware store bolts can be used

Nut needs to be nylok or double nut so it can't unscrew itself
Ford used pinch nut setup for these I believe, pinch nut is slightly out of round so can't unscrew itself
Use washers, the bigger the better, the brackets are rusty so you want to spread out the holding force of the bolt/nut

Of course the metal nuts and bolts can start to rust, so paint them after install , use primer then paint
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Will_B
SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines
9
06-27-2017 07:11 AM
kirbo7106
SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines
11
01-06-2012 08:11 PM
Scrat01
Member Introductions
9
09-13-2010 07:14 AM
nross
General Ford Ranger Discussion
26
12-09-2009 12:25 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Damge Down Under


Contact Us - Sitemap - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.