i have a 2011 ford ranger 4.0 V6 2WD XLT and i am the approximate 3rd owner
i have had the vehicle since nov
mileage is at 135000

and so about 2.5 weeks ago i noticed issues with my ac, it escalated to the point that i only had ac on max ac with high fan, and then over the next couple of days the strength weakened to the point of no air (fan) at all so then today i replaced the resistor and blower motor during which the electrical connection had a little rust on since it is original but after install i only have mac ac and high air. when ever i switch to a different air speed its cuts almost to low even if it on setting 3 or 2. and the regular ac feels a little week compared to what i remember.

any trouble shooting tips.

as i work on different components on this car i notice everything is original and either rusted or seized

 

High on the fan switch by-passes the Resistor block, so if you only have high then resistor block IS the problem whether its new or not, look closer at the wires

AC doesn't have a high or low, just on or off
MAX AC is the same as regular AC as far as the AC system is concerned
MAX AC closes the Outside Air Vent and re-cools the cab air, so its a re-circulation setting

In regular AC you are pulling in outside air and cooling it vs re-cooling already cooled cab air in MAX AC

Recharge the AC system if it doesn't feel as cool this year

 

when i was doing the install i did not notice anything with the wires
could it possibly be the actual connector?

 

when i was doing the install i did not notice anything with the wires
could it possibly be the actual connector?

 

Sure, they sell new connectors, its quite common for these wires to melt, the resistor block gets very hot which is why its put inside the air path of the fan

Fan wiring is pretty easy to troubleshoot with an OHM meter, or continuity tester
The fan motor gets 12volts with key on
The fan speed switch in the dash is the GROUND for the fan motor

In High its a direct ground, by-passing the resistor block

In a 2011 Ranger there should be 4 wires on the resistor block connector
Purple/orange << out to fan motor(also connected to "high" speed)
Grey/brown << med/high
Black/grey << ground
green/white << med/low

Key OFF
First test that you have a good ground at the resistor block
Put probes on black/grey wire and engine metal or body metal, should see 0 OHMs or continuity, direct connection to ground
This black/grey wire is actually "low speed" since Ford runs the fan all the time unless you have vent selector in the OFF position

"To ground" means any engine or body metal
Put fan speed switch on high, test purple/orange to ground, should be 0 ohms
Put switch on med/high, test grey/brown to ground, should be 0 ohms
Put switch on med/low, test green/white to ground, should be 0 ohms

If any wire doesn't test as 0 ohms then that wire or the speed switch itself is the issue for that speed